dickandlois

John, The first thing that comes to mind is noise generated by the alternator regulator circuit. Soft or electronic switches and circuits do some strange things when there is noise on the 12 volts. Checking all the ground points are good might clear the problem ??? Does the problem tend to happen when the engine has been running with a high ambient temperature ? If it works fine when the engine is off - I would disable the alternator exciter circuit and turn the alternator into just a expensive pulley and see what happens when you start the engine it will run fine on battery power. If your coach is equipped with a self exciting alternator you will need to remove the 12 volt output from the generator - NOW remember that this wire goes directly to the battery positive, so you will need to isolate it from ground well. Did you system work with this setup ? Rich. A thought - if the generator has never been replaced and with a good number of miles on the coach-it could be noise caused by worn brushes.

John, Like Brett mentioned you can follow the shore cable to the transfer relay. On most of Fleetwood's Coaches, the transfer relay is close to the BCC unit, but they do move around some from model to model. You can go to this link and get the complete manual for the 1999 AE - it is 216 pages of information. I have not reviewed it lately, so I'm not positive it give you the location of some of the items in question; but still worth having on file. http://fleetwoodrv.com/partsandservice/manuals/1999_american_eagle.pdf Rich. Additional info.on BCC used. RV Custom Battery Control Center Used on All Class ‘A’ Product from 1995 through 2007 PC Board for Diesel #087723 (this part number will refer to the latest revision pc board) Link to picture of BCC board that could be in you Coach. http://fwc.fleetwoodrv.com/plant91Files/087723.JPG

John, Did you reset the circuit breakers in the main AC panel ? Could be a loose connection right at the Ac power panel. One is often dedicated to power the inverter, They feed power to 2 circuits and the breakers are mounted on the inverter. Transfer switch is DC powered so a bad fuse or connection at the coil connection or between the coach batteries. Your coach will have a BCC box located near the Batteries. this box also has fuses and small relays that control the larger transfer switch. BCC= Battery Control Center. Also, there is a possibility of a loose connection in the J-box that connects the generator to the coach AC power via the transfer switch. Check for loose connections on the transfer relay terminals for the shore and generator. This can be done by disconnecting from shore power, so your not working or looking at things with power. Things get shaken pretty well while going down the road and things just loosen up. Rich.

brocki, Thanks for your feedback! Will take a little time to see what might might turn up on some other web sights. I do not know how popular the system is, but bad news tends to travel faster then good! Rich.

Posted Today, 09:24 PM Regarding the plastic cap. You do not have to worry, should the pressure ever get to a level that blows the safety plug it will make short work of the cap! Rich.

Paul, This is what I have found regarding the Tanks mounted on RV coaches. One would hope that the person filling your RV tank would OPEN the vent at the filler point. This bleeds off LP once the tank reaches the 80% point! Propane tanks. The line that came loose is a safety line to release LP if the pressure exceeds the upper limit. Remember ! The Tanks permanently mounted on RV’s are called tanks and not cylinders. There are a few different safety regulations between the too. In 1977 the code was changed mandating that the connections, or pigtails, between the propane container and the regulator be made of rubber and then thermoplastic tubing, which would not change diameter in a mechanical "accident," and would activate the excess flow valves reliably when torn apart. A fiver uses a cylinder; your motorhome uses a tank. The MH tank is an ASME (American Society of Mechanical Engineers) design and does not require the new OPD (Overfill Protection Device) valves because it already has a check valve and overfill protection, albeit a different design than cylinders. The ASME Tanks for MHs did not require a change in valve on the tank because they already had sufficient check valves for excess flow, should there be a leak or sudden break in a line. And for more than 17 years, ASME tanks have used automatic stop fill valves to limit filling to 80%. Why so long before DOT cylinders? Because you can't remove them to verify the fill by weight! More importantly, since the connection between the tank and the MHs system is not broken, there is no need for the spring-loaded valve that the DOT cylinders had added with the new OPD valve. That valve prevents the gas from coming out of the cylinder unless there is a tight connection made from the POL or Acme nut depressing the valve. In other words, you can turn on the valve of the DOT cylinder, and no gas would come out unless there was a connector depressing the inside valve. Not necessary for MH connections that are never removed. Thus they were exempted from the OPD changeover rules. In fact, it is pretty difficult to actually blow up a propane tank or cylinder. What does occur when the pressure relief valve blows, which occurs at 312 psi in ASME tanks, and 375psi in DOT cylinders, is that the gas is vented and makes a lot of noise. I have had one overfilled tank vent and it really got my attention! But there was no flame or problem, as it dissipated outside very quickly. Should there be a fire or source of ignition when it vents, it won't explode either, instead it makes a torch. It does not ignite inside the gas line and run up it to the tank or cylinder and "explode." The only exception to that, is if it is punctured and ignited simultaneously, and then the same external ignition occurs only more rapidly. Or, if a leak is allowed to build up inside an enclosed space like our RVs, and then is ignited, there is one heck of a fire. But oxygen must be present in the right mixture within the ignition range, which is fairly narrow. The important thing is that with the garlic odorant (Ethyl Mercaptin) that is added, you would smell it in most cases of a small leak or break, with time to take appropriate action. It can be smelled by the human nose and your detectors at about 1/5th of the lower limit of combustibility or about 1/2 % propane to air. (Propane combusts at 2.15% gas to air to 9.6% gas to air - not above and not below.) Since most RVs have propane detectors near the floor now, they would alert long before the levels reach dangerous concentrations, if they are in good working order. An interesting side note is that there are two types of pigtail connector designs to attach to a DOT Cylinder. Appropriately called Type 1 and Type 2. Type 1 is the Acme nut on the pigtail and the OPD valve on the cylinder. Type 2 is a quick-disconnect (QD,) which requires the type 2 OPD Valve that matches it on the DOT cylinder. What makes the Type 2 different from a plain quick disconnect, aside from needing the valve that matches on the cylinder, is that the Type 2 QD has all the safety items built into the pigtail end as the Type 1. This includes the excess flow check valve, and the thermal bushing. For some reason, unknown to the industry, when the new code was formulated, RVs were left out of approval for the Type 2 valve and pigtail design for a quick disconnect at the cylinder. It is important to note that this part of the code limits only the main connection from cylinder to pigtail to regulator to a Type 1 in RVs. It is acceptable to use a plain propane approved QD for a tap in the line after the regulator in an RV, for example to run a line to a BBQ grill or Catalytic heater. The line that came loose is a safety line to release LP if the pressure exceeds the upper limit. Rich.

Fred, This is a link to the owners manual. I will see what I can find. http://media.channelblade.com/EProWebsiteMedia/1844/Duo_Therm_Comfort_Control_Manual.pdf Rich. Try this link. http://bryantrv.com/docs2/docs/ccc.pdf

bm02tj, The air systems are different for different coaches. When I needed a tow, the driver could not get air into the system using the convenient outlet at the front. He needed to run an air supply all the way to the back and connect to a point near the air dryer. Mine has some air when the engine is not running, but for a good supply the engine needs to be running. There is a check valve in the line preventing it from being used to release the breaks or maintain the air ride. Rich.

huling3, There should be a name and or part number on the climate control you use to set the temperature and fan speed. The control board is connected to the thermostat by a cable that looks lick one used on the desk style telephones. The control boards are often placed near the controls for the converter / chargers and the 12 volt and 110 volt breaker and fuses boxes. Note: It is quite common for the electronics to fail inside the thermostat. Often one AC unit or furnace works and the other will not work. Rich.

Paul, The line is a pressure relief point and yes it connected to the steel rail running under the storage pods. The rails rust and the screw and clamp holding the line come loose. You will need to reattach it to the rail. If the steel is badly rusted then it will need to be replaced. This rectangular steel tube supports the storage compartment bay floor or the molded bay compartments. Rich.

brocki, Post reads that you can start the unit manually at dash. Are both the remote and the main control panel the remote communicates with failing to work? Main battery Switch closed on house battery? (A coach disconnect switch set in the off position will power down the unit) DC power fuse OK? House battery fuse OK? Engine Battery fuse OK, if this option installed? Rich. System Specifications. Cummings Onan Energy Command Voltage- 8 to 35 V DC-Suitable for 12 volt or 24 volt systems Current- 0.05A @ 12 Volts-Back light on Start / Stop - Switch rated @ 1.0 amp. Control outputs- Rated @ 1.0 amp Energy Command 30W (remote) Specifications Operating voltage range-2 to 5.5 Vdc Reverse polarity protected, short circuit protected RF transmitting frequency range-ISM 2.4 GHz Installed transmitter range -150ft. Maximum Estimated Transmitter battery life- 2 to 7 days depending on use Security- 1 in 10,000,000 chance of repeating codes.

Now, having the air system plumbed that way does make sense when you think about it and to be honest I have never used mine with out the engine running. So it might be setup the same way and I had no clue. Sure places the connector in the system at a point of highest pressure. Now! I'm going to have to try mine with the engine off and air in the system. LOL Rich.

Wayne, Not sure this will help but you might try this link for some information. http://www.velvac.com/sites/default/files/resource-files/owners_manual_-_2025_2030_and_revolution_mirrors_7138002.11.pdf I have a very small butane torch that might work to heat the set screw that I bought at Lowes. The flame is very small and it can be focused on a small area. If you can just get the set screw to move just a little bit an work some oil into the threads. You might be able to get it loose. This link might lead you to some parts ? http://www.prvparts.com/velvac-mirrors-s/1835.htm Rich.

Kay, I think the tool you suggested is a hex / 6 point socket. If I understand the post - he is looking for a square tool / 4 point socket to remove the nut(s) Rich.

deborahheinz, There are no real high points on I-80. The highest point might be 2800ft. There are hills, but nothing very high. Some long grades, but nothing real steep. The climb up Rt-77 from the intersection of Rt-40 is a long climb at about 5 to 6 percent grade and goes for nearly 30 to 40 miles and will exceed the elevation of RT-81. Rt-95 Will have a lot more traffic and nowhere near as nice a drive. Hope this helps.

Peter, Could you post your chassis manufacture. Need to get a size in English or come close in Metric for the caliper. Rich.

alaskatom, Welcome to the FMCA Forum! Your description leads to two possible items. One is the ignition switch - start position contacts or the possibility of a failing switch to wire harness connector. The second possibility is the relay the key switch energizes is failing or there is a wire connection on the low current coil connection or the high current contact area. This is where I would start to look. This is assuming the connections and cables going to the starter solenoid are clean and in good condition. Rich.

You might consider a Sentry unit. They come in different sizes and the smaller ones do not weigh a lot, but have some good temperature ratings. There are a number of good hiding places in RV's, you just have look around. Rich.

fmcard911, The rubber roof material is not glued to the roof to a point it can not be removed if it needs to be replace. Also! there are few if any adhesives that would not react with the chemical composition. When incompatible adhesives come in contact with the rubber, it tends to bubble or form blisters and when this happens the material comes loose from the under-laminate (The bond between the two brakes down). All the mounts I have seen where screwed to the roof support ribs under the laminate. Then sealed with Dicor sealant. One needs to consider the possible loose of the adhesion between the rubber and roof deck along with the wind load while driving and strong cross winds adding a load to the adhesive(s) Personally I would not advise the mounting of the panels using adhesives. Rich.

kmtexas1@embarqmail.com You might get some information from this link http://community.fmca.com/topic/3867-wiring-diagram-for-alfa-2002/ Rich.

tarheels293, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. There is no one source for the electrical drawings. The Electrical Systems are divided up between the chassis builder, the coach builder and all the equipment suppliers that the coach builder purchased items from. What control system is used to control your Roof AC units and furnace? Could you provide more details regarding Coach electrical terminals? Cummins supplies engine information. Onan supplies generator information, Allison supplies transmission information. Much of this information should have been supplied with the coach. There are a number of members that have knowledge on many of the systems used by coach and chassis builders. This could be a process that takes time to fill in the gaps. Rich. This link might lead to the owners manual and some other information. http://www.holidayrambler.com/partsandservice/manuals.asp

So Good to hear you are having a good time. Life is sure different. Also , good to hear the fish is still some of the best one can find! Travel safe. Are you planing on taking the ferry over to Labrador ? Been reading your blog to Lois and we have both had a good laugh or two. Beings back so many memories of when we where much younger. Rich.

SharDonnay, Like Ray said. The system has a leak at some point. You mentioned that the system started cooling and reached a point where the compressor stopped cycling. Then it stopped cooling and the amount of freon was less the required. From your description of events, it sounds like the system is freezing up internally. This problem is caused by moisture that has entered the system. You will need to use a vacuum pump on the system, during this process you will see steam forming at the pump exhaust. This caused by the water bowling off under low pressure. Watch the reading on the low side gauge of the manifold - this level will start to increase one you stop the vacuum pump. Watch it for a good 30 min. to see it the gauge drops and how far the gauge swings to to "0" point. the rate of increase kind of tells you how big a leak is in the system. You will then need to run the vacuum pump, close the proper valve on the manifold set - connect a can of freon with dye and continua to add freon until the system stops cycling - at this point you need to start to watch the High Side Pressure on the high side gauge of the manifold. When you near the proper operating high pressure = keep an eye on the sight glass and watch for the liquid to be clear of bubbles. You are now at or near the maximum high side pressure, stop adding freon (you should be close to required amount. Let the system run for a time, then turn off the AC, let it set and with a black lite, look for a green glow - at some point in the system hoses, connection points, the condenser or evaporator. And YES finding a leak in the evaporator can be very challenging. This is a point where you might need to call in some help to disassemble the heater and cooling section of the Assembly. Work safe when working with freon and especially when under pressure. Do not inhale it or make contact with skin. freeze burn is possible !!! This job does require the proper equipment and a good understanding of AC systems. Rich.

Mark. Welcome also !!! The reading on today's gauges is in volts not amps. The reading is quite normal regarding the numbers posted. What make and model leveling system is the coach equipped with? Hydraulic or Air Leveling ? The red light might be and indication that one of your jacks has not has not retracted all the way? By chance is there a green light also ? This indicates power to the system. Rich.

Herman, There is a thermal sensor on the battery end, so if you measure the resistance at the end going to the charger - as the sensor heats or cools the resistance changes. The end that goes to the battery terminal only needs to be in contact physically not electrically. There are no wires directly connected to the probe mounting stud. Rich.