wolfe10

Doug, I would call Freightliner with your VIN and ask for a copy of your air system schematics. Also, give Tiffin a call to find out how they modified/added to the air system (things like air horns, air powered step covers, etc). Have you listened for the air dryer purging (in driveway with engine running)? How frequently?

Mike, Look under the seat for the parts tag. It will tell you the manufacturer of the seat (with Flexsteel and Villa being two top brands). It will also have a PN on it. That will make shopping for seat covers a lot more accurate. Are you looking for slip on covers or trying to duplicate the OE? What material?

Dianne and I will be there. And, will be presenting Preventive Maintenance for DP's at the Diesel RV Club (an FMCA Chapter) the week before the Convention: http://www.dieselrvclub.org/event-2316575

Lyle, Absolutely, verify that the thermostat is affixed to the tank. If so, you can manually turn the water heater ON and OFF until convenient to replace the thermostat.

Carl, Reason I suggested engine on is that is a more accurate "what is voltage at headlights" while driving. But, shore power (assuming it charges chassis battery) can be substituted. And even with no charging, you can compare voltage at chassis battery and then at lights with lights on. Less "what really happens", but it will give you an indication if you have a voltage loss. You can also check to see if light switch supplies lights directly (not as good) or through relays (one for low, one for high). The relays allow larger gauge wire, no loss in headlight switch, and therefore better light. I installed relays for this on our last coach.

As water heats, it WILL expand. There should be an air pocket at the top of the water heater tank to absorb the expansion. If the air pocket is not there, pressure WILL build and leak out the relief valve. Re-establish the air pocket by turning off pressure water and shore water, opening a faucet to relieve pressure and then remove the water heater drain plug (Atwood) or anode (Suburban).

If headlights are not as bight as you would like, first test is with engine running, check voltage AT THE BULBS. You would be surprised how low the actual voltage can be. Have used relays (under $10) and larger gauge wire to boost voltage back up to near that of the chassis battery. Voltage in the high 13's is a LOT brighter than in the low 12's.

Lyle, Could be one of three issues: Loss of air pocket-- re-establish one. Weak pressure relief valve-- replace from most box stores. Too hot-- replace thermostat and/or verify that thermostat is firmly attached to the tank.

Yup, there is NO "here is how to prime all diesels". Totally depends on how the engine and chassis maker designed the fuel system. Best advice-- follow what is in your owners manual. We have owned coaches that recommend installing dry (i.e. there is some means of priming) and some that required pre-filling the filters.

Blake, That MAY be true, but GCWR may not be the limiting factor. Things like hitch rating, Rear axle carrying capacity of any tongue weight, etc. Again, least strong determines towing capacity and I would sure recommend they contact both coach and chassis maker. Hate to have them find out after buying a toad that won't work, or worse, after an accident when someone else's lawyer finds out.

BrownSquad, Yes, welcome to the FMCA Forum. Sounds like several, perhaps unrelated issues. Agree with Rich, start with the batteries-- they are focal to several of your problems. A bad cell can cause many of the issues you describe. As far as generator not powering the 120 VAC system in the coach, start by turning OFF and back ON the breakers on the generator itself. If that does not do it, you need to determine if you have an ATS (Automatic Transfer Switch) or whether you have to manually unplug shore power and plug in generator power. If you are not comfortable and SAFE working around 120/240 VAC, please have a qualified technician help if you have to dig further into the ATS.

Boaman43, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Before we offer "do it yourself" advice on a dangerous system, please tell us more about what blew up and exactly what generator you have.

With Caterpillar manual primer pump on the secondary filter housing, you can install both filters DRY. Then unlock the primer pump handle (turn counter-clockwise) and pump.... and pump.... and pump. It will go from very easy (air) to very hard all of a sudden as whole system is liquid instead of air. Push pump handle all the way in and turn clockwise to lock. Be sure to do last step! If the pump does not work-- if not been used in 20 years, they are available at any Caterpillar dealer and replacement is just the two bolts and the O ring.

If just a plain aluminum filter base on the primary, I can see no reason at all for bypassing it. The Winn system also has clear plastic part that was prone to leaking-- doesn't sound like that is what you have. Like your choice of primary (10) and secondary (2) micron elements. Do you have the Caterpillar 3208 engine? If so, do you have a manual primer pump on the secondary fuel filter?

Please tell us WHAT brand, and if you now it what model primary fuel filter you have. That may help us understand why it was bypassed. Some, such as the Winn system were very prone to leaking air into the fuel system. Parker/Racor has a supersession kit to replace the Winn system. I am a big proponent of two filter systems. Primary with 10-30 micron element, then lift pump, then secondary filter (2 micron for Caterpillar).

I would be VERY surprised if it is that high. Check with BOTH chassis maker and coach maker to verify-- again, lesser number dictates.

Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Can you give us more insight into what you want-- Not familiar with a camera aimed to the FRONT. Sure, plenty of rear view cameras.

Actually, every coach maker has a prescribed sequence for leveling and slide deployment. What works for one may harm the other. PLEASE verify what your coach manufacturer's recommendation is!

GeoLin, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Caterpillar did not spec or install the engine oil dipstick-- your chassis maker did. So, they can tell you the volume between add and full. OR, as you suggested, add one quart at a time, wait a couple of hours to make sure it is in the crankcase and verify. Might also be a good idea to "calibrate the engine oil dipstick" at the next oil change. It is free, and not very complicated. If you need instructions, let us know. A quart or two per 2,500 miles is perfect. BTW, Caterpillar in writing suggests NOT adding oil until the level is at or below the add mark.

Barring someone having first hand information on this coach/chassis, or information from Gillig, the best answer really is that you can not hide an 18" tall by 12" diameter dryer with 3 air lines to it! Guess it could be located all the way forward, but that makes no sense. The proper location is close to the engine-driven compressor, as two of the lines go back to the compressor/governor. And, since moisture is present in the compressed air before the air dryer, there really should not be a drip loop/sag, as it could freeze in cold weather.

Travelinman2B, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Any truck spring shop should be able to add a leaf , completely rebuild the springs, replace the springs with new or install a spacer. This is what they do for a living. Sorry, but can only recommend one where we are in Texas-- suspect others may know of one in your area.

Old Beaver, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Dryers are pretty substantial-- most are more than 18" tall and 12" in diameter. Afraid you will need to locate it, as both length of new hose and size and type of fitting are important. It will be between the air compressor on the engine and the wet tank (first large air tank). What chassis are you on-- that may help tell where the dryer is located?

Paioca, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. It has been almost 3 years since the last post on this subject. I tried e-mailing Mark, but, the message was not delivered. Got this message: " Delivery to the following recipients has been delayed. " Good luck in your search for information on this-- an adventuresome undertaking. I would feel much more comfortable if you have someone along with knowledge of vehicles and RV systems.

Ya, another of the "small world stories". We are from Texas, you from Washington state. Just ran into each other in the parking lot in the CG in Tonopah, AZ. Should we try for a second time???

Yes, emissions requirements are based on date of ENGINE production, with January 1 being a common date for changes in emission requirements. So you could have an engine 2 years older than your coach-- each time there are major changes/price increases, many engines are produced just before the change over date.