wolfe10

Yup, I have the ScanGauge D as well: http://www.scangauge.com/products/scangauged/ Just plug it in to the front diagnostic port.

At the Suspension Seminar, we cover three things when checking shocks: Check for leaking (not just damp, but leaking) Check bushings. Drive over a parking lot speed bump at normal low speed. If an axle bounces more than 1.5 times, they are not doing their job. And, some chassis makers use "less expensive" shocks, some use better ones. Comparing a low end shock with a Koni or Bilstein is indeed apples to oranges.

Yup, not dropping below 12 VDC when trying to start the generator, removes then as a "prime suspect" of your no-start issue. But with the starter not working (no high amp draw), you have not really tested the batteries. But totally agree with Bill, look elsewhere for why the starter is not engaging.

Jim, Absolutely correct. Better wording would be "from the far side of the ATS onward". The ATS is where shore power and generator input "meet" and only one goes on to the coach 120 VAC breaker box.

Really only matters at proper RIDE HEIGHT. By definition, a panhard rod/track bar will allow the body to shift as it deviates from proper ride height (moves in an "arc". A panhard rod/track bar attaches to the chassis on one side of the chassis and the axle on the other. It limits side to side motion between chassis and axle, while allowing full vertical motion. But the chassis will describe a small "arc" as vertical movement occurs. Watts links are more complex, used on race cars, etc to replace panhard rods. They allow ONLY vertical movement, no "arc".

Don, The body is not really the place to measure. Chassis dimensions are what is critical. If this is a side to side issue, may be nothing more than a panhard rod adjustment.

hollybob, Welcome to the FMCA Forum, Yes, the early Subarus front geometry was not conducive to flat towing. Wanted to tow a 1987 Subaru SW, but advice from everyone was to not do it. Sold it and got a vehicle deemed towable 4 wheels down. But, these early Subarus are really unrelated to the newer generation.

Bob, Since it works on shore power, you can rule out from the ATS onward. First thing is to check the breakers on the generator itself-- turn both off and back on. Do all the other appliances work from the generator?

Ron, Yes, you have a separate electric fuel pump-- that is the clicking you hear. Most, not all coaches are wired to start the generator from the house batteries. My suggestion is to have someone else attempt to start it while you use your digital voltmeter to check voltage on the large-gauge 12 VDC wires going into the generator. Reading should be same as house bank. Then when the other person attempts to start it, verify that voltage does not drop below 12 VDC. If it does, do the same check at the battery. If voltage at the battery drops significantly, batteries are bad. If it doesn't drop significantly at the batteries, but does at the generator, start by cleaning and tightening connections at generator and at battery. Be sure to do the generator ground as well.

While the FMCA Towing Guide (January issue each year) and online at http://www.fmca.com/motorhome/towing/204-towing-guides-towing-four-wheels-down.html is up to date and accurate at the time it goes to press, be aware that recently some vehicle manufacturers HAVE changed recommendations after stating that vehicles are towable 4 wheels down. Particularly if considering a new vehicle, I would confirm in writing (or in owners manual) that it is towable 4 wheels down.

Ron, Just to confirm: You can hear the fuel pump clicking. But, the engine does not even try to turn over? OR it turns over slowly? OR it turns over at normal speed, but does not start?

Bill, Not a bad thing-- much less complex air system. So, go through the ride height checks I mentioned above. Let us know what you find (both how yours is set up and what you find).

Bill, No, I do not know if ride height is the same for air suspension as with Torsilastic. VERY different suspensions, but yes, they could be the same ride height dimensions. Need to verify. And, as jleamont said, IF you have air leveling (vs jacks) you could have a stuck or leaking valve/solenoid for that corner.

Bill, No first hand information on your coach, but here is what you need to find out: Number and placement of RIDE HEIGHT VALVES. The vast majority of coaches with air suspension have 3 ride height valves. Generally (not always), two on rear axle and one in front. RIDE HEIGHT SPEC for your chassis. May find that information on a Safari-specific forum or site. Then, with proper safety stands in place, on flat ground, air system filled, adjust the ride height. Start with the axle with the two ride height valves. Absolutely, there could be something else going on here, but this is certainly the place to start. Keep us posted on what you find and we can help.

donfrana, Yes, welcome to the FMCA Forum. You said you have a Onan 6500 (that is, it produces 6500 watts). 6500 watts divided by 120 volts= 54 amps. Though I have not worked on any of that vintage, you need to verify how it is breakered/wired. Newer ones (early 1990's) had TWO on-generator breakers. Also depends on how your coach is wired-- if 50 amp, one breaker would feed hot L1, the other L2. If 30 amp coach, only one hot. Many boats use the same manual transfer switches. They are much more robust than the switch you mentioned. Here is one: http://www.defender.com/product.jsp?path=-1|328|2290051|2290059&id=839597

Roland, Nothing particularly technical. The main issue is the WEIGHT of the cooling package (CAC and radiator).

Ricky, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Three very different questions, assuming for personal use: 1. What driver's license you need goes by the state in which you are licensed. All other states recognize that (reciprocity). So, verify what license you need in AZ. 2. Max length, weights, speed limits, etc are determined by each individual state. So, you may be legal in some, NOT in others. 3. Will you be stopped for being over-length? Maybe. I know my brother spend 30 minutes on the side of the road in AZ while DOT measured and remeasured his boat (a 32' motorsailer) returning to TX from Lake Powell. BUT (yes, large BUT), were you ever involved in an accident, and either the police or worse, the other guy's attorney found out you were operating an illegal vehicle in that state...............

A very common Michelin tire size on many lighter motorhomes. Lots of Freightliner chassis came with them.

Caterpillar calls their thermostats, regulators. Cost of labor will vary WIDELY. If a side radiator, the job should take less than an hour (drain some coolant, replace regulators and gasket, refill coolant). If rear radiator and the guy has to access the top of the engine from inside, then run back and forth for "outside vs inside" tasks, a lot more. I would suggest not asking for a quote until you are able to show the tech/service writer what is involved in accessing them. If they don't know that the job is easy, they will/should shoot HIGH.

http://community.fmca.com/topic/2978-beware-of-van-horn-texas/#comment-15488 Be aware, that thread is from 2011. No idea if it is still relevant.

Been pretty well publicized. Here is a post from 2009 here on the FMCA Forum: http://community.fmca.com/topic/569-important-safety-issue-monaco-hr-safari-chassis/

Ya, but it would be great to loose some of the aerodynamic drag!

Mike, Yes, run the generator and roof A/C's. Even if the dash A/C is working perfectly, it will not keep up with 100 degree exterior temperature.

Yup, cool air IN THE ENGINE= more HP. But, cold ambient air= increased aerodynamic drag (ask any pilot about lift in cold vs hot conditions).

Before going to the effort, consulted an engineer at Caterpillar who I had worked with on writing the "Understanding Coach/RV Performance" document. He said that they (and suspect ALL diesel manufacturers) have published HP/torque and fuel consumption specs based on fuel of a a certain temperature. Don't recall exactly, but the number 80 degrees F sticks in my mind. Easy test to see how it affects performance on your coach: Do a 0-60 after driving for more than 1/2 day with fuel level around 1/4 or so. Fill up and do another 0-60. Suspect that even though you have added hundreds of pounds of fuel, that your times will be better on the new/cool fuel. Ya, feel the nozzle as you fuel to make sure the tanker truck did not just drop off a load after sitting in the 100 degree heat all day.