wolfe10

So, absolutely, start by diagnosing the solenoid/relay.

George, Have you turned OFF and back ON the on-generator breakers? If they are good, next "suspect" is the ATS (Automatic Transfer Switch). IF, repeat IF you are safe working around 120 VAC, remove the cover to the ATS. With a voltmeter, check for power "IN" from the generator and for power on the "OUT" contacts. Or, have this diagnosed by someone qualified with 120 VAC RV electrical systems.

But, is the rocker switch the ON/OFF for the solenoid/relay or is it THE ON/OFF switch. Easy to tell. If small gauge wire (like 14 gauge or smaller) it is likely the "controller" for a solenoid. If it is 8 gauge or larger, it is likely a manual switch.

Dave, Get from Spartan the correct RIDE HEIGHT for your chassis. I would NOT deviate from that except for very short runs at very low speeds. Air suspension were not designed to raise and lower while driving-- they are NOT low riders!

Dusty Shipper, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Is your house battery disconnect switch (aka salesman switch) that is usually near the entrance door MECHANICAL or does it activate a SOLENOID/RELAY? If solenoid/relay and you have a voltmeter or even test light, easy to diagnose: There will be two large lugs (one from battery bank) and (one to house 12 VDC fuse box). It may have one small lug (positive signal from switch) or two (one is the positive and one the ground). If only one, the solenoid grounds through the body of the solenoid itself. So, with batteries at 12+ VDC, when the switch is on, the small signal lug should have 12+ VDC. And both the battery side lug AND the other large lug should have 12+ VDC. Let us know what you find.

Remove the gas cap and SMELL IT. If it smells like gasoline you are good to go. If it has "turned" and has a varnish-like smell, drain and start over.

Monaco should be able (call with your VIN) to tell you complete cooling system capacity. They both designed and built the chassis and whole cooling system.

Larry, There is really no "this is always the best braking system": Do you have a DP with air brakes or do you have hydraulic brakes? Do you change vehicles often or keep one for a long time?

John, Welcome to the Forum. Is this your first coach/first Diesel Pusher? Wondering how comfortable you are driving a DP in the mountains. Use of engine brake/service brake? And, Phoenix to Clovis you can go either I 10 to Las Cruces and up or I 17 and I40 and down. I would check weather before making a decision-- I 10 is at much lower elevation. From there, it really depends on where in Alabama you are headed-- Mobile would suggest a different route than Birmingham.

As Rich said, check that you do not have a 3 way water heater: MOTOR-AID, electric, propane. You can check by water heater model number or by checking for coolant lines (5/8" is a common size) running from engine to water heater and often on to the dash heater core. And your title suggests that the electric portion is not working, but you do not mention that in the body of the post.

OK, dcharn: First, welcome to the FMCA Forum. You have made three posts today on the same subject. And in two of them you have accursed someone/Monaco of deleting posts about others who may be having the same problem you are experiencing. Reality: that has certainly never happened on the FMCA Forum and I seriously doubt that Monaco or anyone else has control over any of the major RV forums. The good news is that you HAVE posted your experience and we will see if anyone else is having that issue. Moderator

Lot of truth to that. Bottom line-- unless there is a software update to address a specific issue you are having, PASS ON IT.

Phil, I took the liberty of forwarding this thread to Roadmaster. Here is the reply I got from them: The brake pressure setting is too low. We recommend 65 psi on this vehicle. This may or may not be his ultimate issue, but it is definitely a significant factor. This pressure assumes a normal install. If the dealership routed the cable with lots of sharp bends and turns, this creates a lot of drag in the cable. The more drag, the less braking activity. I would increase the pressure to 65 psi. If this doesn't solve the problem, please suggest the customer contact James Linnebur at 800-669-9690 ext. 155 so we can further investigate. Thanks for contacting us about this. We want happy customers and appreciate the opportunity to help them. Regards,

Phil, I know Roadmaster has basic PSI settings for each vehicle. I would start by verifying that the installer set the initial setting per the Roadmaster recommendations. Let us know after you verify that the 7 pin connector is working properly-- a bad connection could certainly cause your symptoms.

Phil, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Our Invisibrake is 2 year old and had performed as it should. Do you have an "Invisibrake is on" light on the dash (as we do)? If so when does it come on/not come on when the coach brake is applied? Are your coach/toad brake lights working-- that is what triggers the Invisibrake. And if the answers to these do not point you to the problem, absolutely call Roadmaster-- they should be able to walk you/a tech through a diagnosis.

Steve, The slide toppers keep rain, dirt and leaves off the slide. Particularly in your damp climate, I would be concerned about removing them. Be sure they are properly tensioned so that they do not flap in the wind. If that is the problem, you would probably want to address that problem, not just leaving the toppers off.

moremiles, EXCELLENT resource. Thanks.

Greg, Welcome to the FMCA Forum If you have checked the fuse/breaker, the next step would be to call our chassis maker. They fit the steering column.

It depends on the damage. If electrolysis has eaten the tank, you could patch the current leak, only to have one spring up right next to it. If it is a split seam, it may be repairable. My evaluation would be (depending on age and condition of the water heater): Replace with new, install new tank, repair old tank. The labor to replace the whole water heater is quite a lot less than the other two options, so the labor (yours or someone else's) has to weigh into the equation.

dbedard1, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Have you verified 12+ VDC at the refrigerator PC board? Have you done the "burner area tune-up"? Only after that should you look to spend $$.

Look for a label on the underside of the chairs. The other alternative is to call Monaco with your VIN-- they should be able to access that information for you.

crb13563, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Please let us know what generator and inverter you have. And, what are the symptoms.

Larry, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Check with Freightliner for the location of ALL fuel filters. You may have up to three-- the horizontal one, a primary and a secondary. Or must two the horizontal and final. What did you find in the filters when you changed them-- was it black and slimy? black particles? water? dirt? I always add a biocide (I use Biobor JF-- least expensive from Academy last I checked) if storing fuel over 2 months in the summer or 3 months in the winter. As far as how to prime, need to keep the line from draining back to the tank, check with either Cummins or Freighliner-- you may have an electric primer pump that is capable of purging the air from the line. If not, you might park on an incline with the front/tank higher than the filter location.

The VIN is stamped on the frame rail under the master cylinder in the left front wheel well. Did not see other information there. On ours, there is also a CCC sticker on the door above the kitchen sink. What do you need other than VIN, GAWR and GVWR's?

Proudvet, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. On our 2003 Alpine 38', the GVWR placard (actually a sticker) is next to the fuel fill. Extend the generator slide and look on the driver's side next to the fuel fill. Note, this is GVWR (Gross Vehicle Weight Rating), NOT actual weight. Actual weight will likely be several thousand pounds lighter unless your hobby is collecting rocks or bowling balls.