wolfe10

An important note: There have been a variety of fluids used in hydraulic systems on RV's over the years/models. BE SURE TO USE THE ONE THAT IS CORRECT FOR YOUR COACH/CHASSIS. Some use hydraulic oil, some ATF, some engine oil. DO NOT MIX. Some have changeable filters, some do not.

Yes, the owners manual is a good source, but several major auto manufacturers have declared vehicles not towable AFTER deeming them towable 4 wheels down. So, not a bad idea to do further research with a knowledgeable dealer service manager (who has access to manufacturer service bulletins) or the manufacturer themselves (though the "customer help" personnel at most auto manufacturers are NOT technically oriented.

nandd4mh, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Have you turned off and back on the breakers in the 120 VAC breaker box? Are the A/C's controlled by a remote or switch(s) on the unit themselves. If remote, it may be a communications issue between the remote and A/C.

What else runs on that generator breaker along with the front A/C-- water heater? refrigerator? charger? other? Make sure you are not overloading the circuit before concluding that the breaker is bad.

Add exhaust brake stuck shut or mostly shut to the list.

Vandall, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. What brand and model jacks do you have?

Chuck, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Does this happen when the engine is warmed up as well as when cold?

tkobus, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. First question is how long you will be running those loads. Multiply that times the amp draw of everything you will be running. Because inverters are not 100% efficient, up that figure by 15%. If this is for only occasional use and the battery bank will be brought up to full charge (shore power) after each use, you can reasonably discharge the batteries down to 30% (vs 50% as recommended for long battery life). That will tell you the size (in amp-hrs) that you will need. From there you can make a decision as to cost vs a quiet generator (Honda makes several very quiet ones).

Cowboy66, In addition to two sets of fuel filters, a good idea to carry a set of belts and one oil filter. Make sure to rotate spares so oldest is used and new ones go into spares use. You can get someone to install these items anywhere in the world, but may not be able to find the correct part.

Phil, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. I can answer a couple of your questions-- answers will be in SOLID LETTER CAPS. Brett

Yes, a leak anywhere between the vacuum connection on the pump and the brake booster will cause loss of vacuum. Use the "block off" test I posted above to trace it down. But again, each time the Invisibrake is applied, vacuum is restored. Of unless it a significant leak not sure it is a real issue-- Roadmaster would be the one to call on leak down specs.

harp54, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Not sure if this is a problem or not-- Roadmaster could tell you. When the Invisibrake comes on, it is both a vacuum pump to "power" the brake booster and a pressure pump to power the air cylinder that applies the brake pedal. So vacuum is established each time the brake is applied. And, of course when not towing, each time your engine is running, the engine vacuum "powers" the brake booster. But, checking for leaks should not be that difficult. You can block off with a solid object (such as phillips head screwdriver of proper diameter) the vacuum line at various points from pump to brake booster to verify that the system is holding a vacuum. A vacuum gauge T'ed in will give you exact info, but letting it sit for an hour after using the break away switch to power the unit for a minute will give you a pretty good answer.

That is the route we take back home (Texas) from Redmond, OR. No problems, no real traffic. But, it also depends on the time of the year-- no idea what conditions are right now-- we have always done it in the summer.

This in addition to Rich's post. Get this diagnosed before using any more shore power-- if you have a loose connection on a hot leg, it can cause extreme overheating and perhaps a fire. As Rich said, if all is OK on generator, that eliminates the ATS OUT connections, and everything on the coach-side. Try another CG outlet. Check the male end of your shore power cord carefully for signs of overheating (melted plug or discolored prong). If you are safe working around 120 VAC, with all 120 VAC off, open the shore power inlet and ATS and check carefully for signs of overheating and/or loose connections. If you are not comfortable doing this step, have someone else do it.

John, All Allison 3000 and 4000 transmissions have an economy mode option (button on shift pad labeled "MODE"). Please DO check mileage the "old fashion way" (miles divided by gallons less fuel used by generator). The computer can be well off. You are approaching the first scheduled valve adjustment for your engine. If the valves are out of adjustment, that can cause lowered MPG and HP. Air filter minder reading?

John, How many miles on the coach? Air filter minder reading? What is coach weight? Toad weight? Do you drive in "economy mode"? At what speed do you go into 6th gear? what RPM?

Jim, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Have you reset the two breakers on the inverter itself?

For a Foretravel (and I agree on the assessment of their quality): Foretravel Factory MOT (Motorhomes of Texas) PPL (in Houston gets a reasonable number of consignment Foretravels)

No, the link was not spam (by placing the cursor over the link, you can see the web-address before clicking on it), but since we don't know anything about what dishwasher he has, difficult to give meaningful recommendations. And, have never seen that icemaker in an RV.

Please tell us what toilet (Brand and model) you have, as the seal design is different on different toilets.

Dave, No problem with I 10 all the way, but there is a much more scenic route across Texas. Exit I 10 in Van Horn Texas onto U.S. 90. Take it across to San Antonio where it rejoins I 10. Only 25 miles longer. Excellent two lane road with very, very little traffic. Alpine is a cute small west Texas town. Visit Big Bend NP is not in the heat of the summer. Either drive down in the RV, or leave the RV in Alpine or Marathon and drive the toad. Visit the (free) Judge Roy Bean center in Langtry. Then Seminole Canyon State Park (electric, water and dump station). Some several thousand year old Indian cave paintings there and free small museum in the park HQ. Some nice hiking trails in the park as well. For fishermen, Lake Amistad is a good stop-- plenty of RV parks as well. Then Del Rio if you want to cross the border. Not a lot to see in Hondo, but during WW II, that is where they trained Army Air Corp navigators/bombardiers. Castroville has a nice regional park in town, the town settled by immigrants from the Alsace Region.

Using the "search" box at the top right of this page, you need to enter "compressor" and THEN click on "this topic" and change it to "Forums". That will search for any compressor post on the forums.

Yellowstone is a very popular destination. I just put "yellowstone" in the search box and came up with quite a few excellent recommendations: http://community.fmca.com/index.php?app=core&module=search&do=search&fromMainBar=1

Lots of choices out there. Start here-- a list by year for the last 10+ years of those vehicles that are towable 4 wheels down: http://www.fmca.com/motorhome/towing/204-towing-guides-towing-four-wheels-down Not sure the choices WE make are relevant to YOUR needs.

Give Dennis a call-- he designed them: RVA Company. 320 N. Market Place. Escondido, CA 92029. (760) 746-5732. Dennis Day