wolfe10

All other things being equal, 800 CA batteries (assume at least a pair) will be slightly better than 750 CA batteries. But, Cummins is your source for battery requirements to start our ISL. Much of the equation will depend on what the coldest temperatures you will encounter (and need to start the engine). Another question will be if you will have a block heater available under these lower temperatures.

Are these to be used as starting (chassis) or house (where deep cycle is important)?

Please confirm that you have the Workhorse W22 chassis. Once we know the chassis, someone may be able to remove their cap and get the numbers for you.

Call Monaco on Monday and ask to speak with someone familiar with your vintage Safari. Have you located your Allison ECM? You could also check for power there. Suspect pin schematics for it can be found on-line.

Did you find two fuses labeled Transmission or Allison? Monaco MAY have schematics going back that far: 877-466-6226

Three choices: 1. Choose a vehicle that is towable 4 wheels down without modification and is within the GCWR and towing capacity of your motorhome. 2. Choose a vehicle that is not towable without modification and have it modified to two 4 wheels down (drive shaft disconnect, transmission pump, etc) and that meets the weight restrictions above. 3. Use a tow dolly with brakes rated to tow the toad you have in mind and that meets the weight restrictions above. Clearly, the first is the easiest. But, if you change vehicles often, the tow dolly makes sense. If you LOVE your current vehicle and want to tow it 4 wheels down, the second option makes sense.

A very nice summer destination, particularly for kids is Red River, NM. Lots to do and COOL temperatures because of the elevation. We have seen lots of families there-- the closest "cool weather" to your area. Hopefully, some other families will chime in.

John, What area(s) do you travel to-- short trips out of Mckinney or long trips? Any particular time of year? What are your interests/ interests of your kids?

Until the Allison shift pad illuminates, it will not start. There are two fuses to the Allison-- one for memory, one that turns on with the ignition on. Check both.

dba4777, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. We need to be sure what chassis/transmission you have, as Safari used several during that time period. If this is a Diesel Pusher with the Allison 6 speed transmission (MD3060), your symptoms sound like either the IGNITION SWITCH or IGNITION SOLENOID is not functioning. So, first question-- what is chassis battery voltage? Do any "only work with the ignition on" items work-- dash HVAC fan, for example?

John, Do you have a humidifier or DEHUMIDIFIER in the coach. A small house-type dehumidifer set on 50% humidity works very well. If stored where you don't have access to the coach, but do have electricity, set the dehumidifier on the kitchen counter (secure it well) and let it drain into the gray tank. Been there, done that. Even the smaller 30 pint units work very well.

bmcloud, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Lots of posts on this. On the "towing" forum, enter "Escape" into the search box (upper right).

Here is an earlier thread on Glacier here on the FMCA Forum: http://community.fmca.com/topic/4281-recommended-campgrounds-near-glacier-national-park-in-montana/

No, there are no trains to Alaska. There is a train within Alaska (Seward to Fairbanks if I recall correctly). There IS the Alaska Marine Highway (a system of drive on Ferry Boats) from the lower 48 to Alaska.

Ray, Give PacBrake a call with your engine serial number. Let us know what you find out. Pacbrake 800 663-0096

Lyle, My recommendation would be to call Damon, talk with the foreman who builds them to see his suggestion. Would be like having X-ray vision of what is up there.

Assume you are talking about fans at the top of the outer refrigerator access area that exhaust upward? If so, you should be able to see them by looking up from the lower outside access door. If not, certainly from the upper vent. Be aware that some are thermostatically controlled, so they may not be on in low ambient temperatures.

You can check the back pressure (which generates the braking HP)-- at least on the PacBrake, there is a port on the side to accomplish this. Obviously, any exhaust leak between head and exhaust manifold, manifold itself or manifold and exhaust brake will not allow full PSI to build. And, as already posted, the PRXB PacBrake generates more braking HP at lower RPM's-- the same at higher RPM's. But, not having to go to high RPM makes the brake a lot more pleasant to use.

To add to what Ray said, a belt tensioner that is "jumping" also loads/unloads all the accessory bearings driven by that belt such as alternator so it shortens their life as well. Brett

Automatic belt tensioners are wear items. Here is a good, short video by Gates Corp: http://www.gates.com/tensioner/tensioner_video.html

Guys, Gas vs Diesel discussion ALWAYS get a little heated-- strong feelings on both sides. Please remember common forum etiquette -- it is OK to challenge other's FACTS or OPINIONS. It is NOT OK to make personal attacks. There is a place in the RV world for both fuel types, and there are excellent reasons for both. The fact that it is a better choice for YOU does not necessarily make it a better choice for someone else. But, that applies to a lot more than just type of fuel! Thanks. Brett Moderator

Those same charts also give "Revolutions per mile" for each tire.

Freightliner Gaffney 800 385-4357

Locate the GFI outlet or breaker. Many coaches have two. Push the "reset" button.

Actually, it is quite possible that the gauge IS accurate. Remember, the gauge is reading TOTAL restriction on the air intake. This includes intake on the side/rear of the coach, ducting to the air filter, air filter condition AND SIZE, and ducting from filter past the air filter minder to the engine intake. I know that there were some CC's with inadequately- sized air intakes/filters. Check with one of the CC owners websites and you will find posts on this.