wolfe10

Though it could be programmed either way I am not aware of any RV's that differ from "default to power mode" each time the engine is started. So, pushing the mode button which turns on the mode light selects for ECONOMY mode. But, it is quite to verify: From a stoplight, with mode in the default setting (power mode), accelerate up to 45 MPH at or close to wide open throttle. Note max RPM in each gear. Press the mode button and repeat. Economy mode should upshift at well lower RPM-- again, ONLY under high throttle positions.

I would also be hesitant to run a TV directly from a battery. Battery voltage is NOT 12.0 VDC. It ranges from just under 12 VDC to over 14 VDC. Safer to use the small inverter, particularly a sine wave inverter. Another option would be to find a DC to DC converter.

Sorry, above my pay grade. Dexron III has pretty low viscosity. But, I do not know if extreme cold would call for another fluid.

Paul, There is no compelling reason to have the same brand/tread pattern on one axle vs the other EXCEPT in the event that you want to rotate the tires. But, all tires on an axle MUST have the same tire and tread. As far as tread depth, it is a trade-off. The deeper the tread, the more tire SQUIRM you have. There is also a very small MPG penalty, as some energy applied to the tires does not translate to the road. If no alignment or other issues, even the shallower tread depths should last well more than 60,000 miles.

The big thing that running the engine did was to raise battery voltage, as your alternator was working. Again, place to start when an electrical item is not working properly is to check VOLTAGE.

What is voltage at the pump motor when you experienced the "just clicking". Bad voltage/bad ground can certainly cause that.

One more thing to add: Each of you should review the schedule and highlight those seminars you would like to attend. Consider it "homework." That way you will get to those that are important to you, yet be able to set time aside to look at coaches, vendors, etc. Brett

Rich, Let me respond to the bolded portion of your post: Lots of views with few replies/posts is really the "good news and the bad news." The good news first: If a question is asked and answered correctly (factual questions, not opinion questions) there is no need or desire to make multiple "I agree" posts. You will notice that "opinion" topics get lots more posts! The bad-- you are correct, many view but do not post. One of the other sites I moderate http://forum.dieselrvclub.org/index.php?action=forum (Diesel RV Club-- an FMCA Chapter) is even more "lots view, but few post". That site started out on Yahoo, where it could not be organized. Hence, you would see the same question and answers-- sometimes several times a week (example: "my engine is overheating what do I need to do" was posted many times a week in the summer). Long time viewers/posters let us know loud and clear that they were sick and tired of having their in-boxes clogged with the same questions and answers week in and week out. So, we spent several man-weeks organizing the posts by topic. Now, though we do get new posts (generally to questions not answered) the number of views has skyrocketed as many have found the site to be a valuable research tool. Few new posts per month, BUT: Average page views per day: 1,822.03. Hard to cast that in a negative light. Perhaps I am in the minority, but I have never viewed the FMCA Forum as a wannabe chat room or substitute for face book! Our feedback is that it a valuable tool in maintaining their motorhome, planning trips and just generally sharing information on the motorhoming lifestyle.

Rich, Are you asking about the 3M clear plastic film that is applied directly to the paint or the clear lexan/plastic pieces that stand off from the front of the coach? The 3M product looks good for a couple of years and then starts cracking and yellowing. VERY difficult to remove without damaging the paint underneath. The stand off products usually have quick releases to allow quick removal for cleaning. As to whether these products are a good idea is very dependent on where you drive. If in areas where there is a lot of sand or gravel on the road, probably a worthwhile consideration. Of course another option for probably the same or less money would be to have the lower portion of the nose repainted every couple of years.

Re the volume difference between the FMCA Forum and "other" RV Forums: The FMCA Forum is one of the newest RV Forums, having "come to life" February 2009. Since then, more than 41,000 people have joined the Forum, with number of members and posts growing at an expanding rate. As Jim expressed one of the issues with ALL the RV forums (and I suspect other forums as well) is that those seeking help don't always come back and report on the results of troubleshooting. Frustrating to those who spend time researching and posting. I know this came up just yesterday on one of the larger RV forums. Likewise, on all the forums the vast majority of posters, even if their opinions differ, are respectful. Yup, there are exceptions on ALL of them. Had a "disrespectful" post deleted from another forum just yesterday afternoon. Basic Forum courtesy: It is OK to disagree with another's opinion, It is NEVER OK to attack another person. And I think members of this Forum follow this rule as well or better than participants in other forums. If you ever see a post that you feel goes over the line, please notify the Forum Moderator. When you speak of post volume, there is a very wide range -- Rich, looking at your profile, since you joined in September of last year, you have averaged 5 posts a month. Do you consider that low, medium or high volume? Bottom line is that the FMCA Forum is one of the faster growing RV Forums with a cadre of knowledgeable posters willing to help other on technical matters as well as very well discussed general issues such as campgrounds, travel destinations, routes, etc.

Frank, Here is the website for Powerline (actually the company is Hehr- Powerline): http://www.hehrintl.com/alternators.htm Also, I suspect that the model number is on a tag on the alternator itself. Another option is to Google "Hehr Powerline". You will get PDF service manuals for many of their alternators. Brett

RJ6040, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. What area of the country are you in. If anywhere near Perry GA, consider attending the FMCA Convention in two weeks. Look over this list of free seminars-- many of which will cover engine, transmission, chassis, and house system maintenance: http://www.fmca.com/conventions/perry-2014/seminars If this is not convenient, best to break this into "bite size" segments-- considering each component or system separately. Yes, it is quite a learning curve, but one we have all gone through. From the chassis perspective, Spartan likely has scheduled maintenance intervals for the chassis components (including engine and drivetrain). I know Freightliner has them.

Ray, What transmission did your 1993 have? Curious because the 6 speed 3000 and 4000 both have two internal filters. So, no way to get part numbers off them without dropping the filter covers.

Give Allison a call and ask if you can send them the photo along with transmission serial number. Allison help line 800 252 5283

Actually 30 PSI is plenty of pressure. Most engine makers state boost in column inches of HG. PSI is very close to TWICE column inches of HG.

Take it to any Caterpillar dealer and have them check for codes-- sure beats guessing. Could be a crank angle sensor, low fuel pressure, etc. Let us know what they find.

An important note: There have been a variety of fluids used in hydraulic systems on RV's over the years/models. BE SURE TO USE THE ONE THAT IS CORRECT FOR YOUR COACH/CHASSIS. Some use hydraulic oil, some ATF, some engine oil. DO NOT MIX. Some have changeable filters, some do not.

Yes, the owners manual is a good source, but several major auto manufacturers have declared vehicles not towable AFTER deeming them towable 4 wheels down. So, not a bad idea to do further research with a knowledgeable dealer service manager (who has access to manufacturer service bulletins) or the manufacturer themselves (though the "customer help" personnel at most auto manufacturers are NOT technically oriented.

nandd4mh, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Have you turned off and back on the breakers in the 120 VAC breaker box? Are the A/C's controlled by a remote or switch(s) on the unit themselves. If remote, it may be a communications issue between the remote and A/C.

What else runs on that generator breaker along with the front A/C-- water heater? refrigerator? charger? other? Make sure you are not overloading the circuit before concluding that the breaker is bad.

Add exhaust brake stuck shut or mostly shut to the list.

Vandall, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. What brand and model jacks do you have?

Chuck, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Does this happen when the engine is warmed up as well as when cold?

tkobus, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. First question is how long you will be running those loads. Multiply that times the amp draw of everything you will be running. Because inverters are not 100% efficient, up that figure by 15%. If this is for only occasional use and the battery bank will be brought up to full charge (shore power) after each use, you can reasonably discharge the batteries down to 30% (vs 50% as recommended for long battery life). That will tell you the size (in amp-hrs) that you will need. From there you can make a decision as to cost vs a quiet generator (Honda makes several very quiet ones).

Cowboy66, In addition to two sets of fuel filters, a good idea to carry a set of belts and one oil filter. Make sure to rotate spares so oldest is used and new ones go into spares use. You can get someone to install these items anywhere in the world, but may not be able to find the correct part.