wolfe10

ultraglider, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. MPG is a reasonably complex issue. On flat ground, added weight is far less important than on any upgrades. On the flats, aerodynamics is the main issue. But (and that is BIG but), fuel is not the largest expense unless you drive a lot of miles. Depreciation far overshadows fuel expenses for most RV'ers.

The air compressor is mounted ON the engine, passenger's side. The air governor will be either on it or near it between it and the air dryer (follow the air lines). Do you have air at the air chuck (for filling tires)? Did you do the check involving the parking brake-- results?

jpveev, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Call "the usual suspects": http://community.fmca.com/topic/685-salvage-yards-for-motorhomes/?hl=salvage BTW it looks the same as the propane door on our 1997 Safari Sahara.

With that long exhaust manifold, it is a good idea to have it checked for straightness. Mill it if needed. Not expensive. Replace the head to manifold gaskets, all exhaust manifold bolts bolt locks and manifold to turbo gasket. If any of the manifold bolts are difficult to remove, don't hesitate to soak them with a good penetrating oil. Much better than breaking a bolt.

Brian, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. The good news is that an exhaust leak on a diesel is pretty easy to detect. An exhaust leak leaves BLACK traces around the leak. Look at the head to exhaust manifold, exhaust manifold itself (that long one piece manifold is prone to leaking), manifold to turbo, turbo itself and on down the exhaust circuit. Let us know what you see.

gsrcek, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. The gas solenoid will give but a SINGLE click (as it opens). It would be defective if multiple clicks. The igniter gives several clicks-- until flame is detected. Put your finger on the solenoid valve as someone turn the refrigerator on (or to a colder temperature). You should feel a (one) solid "click" as the valve opens.

Concerning the fogged window, if you get down to the west coast of FL, these guys are very good-- had them fix 4 of our fogged dual pane (or is that pain) windows: http://suncoastdesigners.com/

If this "out of level" is consistent, first suspect is that the sensor may need adjustment.

klparker, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. First thing is to determine if this is a real problem (no air pressure) or gauge problem. After the engine has been running long enough that is should have built air pressure (and did before the problem started), turn off the engine. Walk around the coach and listen for an air leak-- if so, fix. If not, continue. Push in the parking brake plunger (to release the parking brake). Does it release? If so, you have 40+ PSI. Re-apply parking brake. Lightly pump service brake 5 times. Again try to release the parking brake. If it does, you very likely have a gauge, not air pressure problem. If you have a build-in air chuck, you could also check pressure there. If it truly is an air pressure issue, start by replacing the AIR GOVERNOR-- not expensive or difficult to replace. It turns the engine-driven compressor "on" and "off" (actually loads and unloads the compressor valves).

Not sure there is a "one answer fits all". We are on our second coach that we bought older, used that had good "bones", but needed a major re-do-- basically neglected, not abuses. Did most of the work ourselves, including new flooring, appliances, window coverings, some furniture, as well as a COMPLETE (I mean complete) mechanical inspection, service and in many cases upgrade. We end up with a very nice coach for 25% of what a new one of comparable quality and amenities would cost. But, clearly not everyone can do or is interested in doing that amount of work. Hiring it out is another option, and would likely add quite a lot to the cost. Others just want new-- either because they are tired of the old one, or can't "live without" some of the toys found on newer coaches. Heck, we don't have slides, but frankly don't want them. We have found that we are pretty good at going to an RV show (particularly a large one like the Tampa RV Show or the upcoming FMCA Convention) and being able to look at new/newer coaches, keeping our current one in mind. It really helps gel the "upgrade this one or buy another" question. It also gives up a lot of ideas (take a camera with you) of what upgrades you would do the one you have now.

Ray is correct. So is Herman, with my observation that very few of those at vehicle "help lines" are conversant with the details of the Magnuson-Moss Warrant Act.

btchart, Yes, as long as the tires on each side in the rear are very close to the same circumference. If they are not, then the "taller" tire will carry a disproportionate share of the weight.

Azpics, Particularly on a steer axle, I agree. In panic situations you do want to of the same tires on that axle.

Have you tried Monaco? 877-466-6226 Have your VIN handy.

http://www.dieselrvclub.org/planned?eventId=702603&EventViewMode=EventDetails March 2-7, 2014 Brunswick GA Three detailed maintenance seminars along with lots of fun events. Only a couple of spots left. Dianne and I will be there. Brett

Again the question-- for engine starting batteries (chassis batteries) or house batteries (where deep cycle are superior)?

All other things being equal, 800 CA batteries (assume at least a pair) will be slightly better than 750 CA batteries. But, Cummins is your source for battery requirements to start our ISL. Much of the equation will depend on what the coldest temperatures you will encounter (and need to start the engine). Another question will be if you will have a block heater available under these lower temperatures.

Are these to be used as starting (chassis) or house (where deep cycle is important)?

Please confirm that you have the Workhorse W22 chassis. Once we know the chassis, someone may be able to remove their cap and get the numbers for you.

Call Monaco on Monday and ask to speak with someone familiar with your vintage Safari. Have you located your Allison ECM? You could also check for power there. Suspect pin schematics for it can be found on-line.

Did you find two fuses labeled Transmission or Allison? Monaco MAY have schematics going back that far: 877-466-6226

Three choices: 1. Choose a vehicle that is towable 4 wheels down without modification and is within the GCWR and towing capacity of your motorhome. 2. Choose a vehicle that is not towable without modification and have it modified to two 4 wheels down (drive shaft disconnect, transmission pump, etc) and that meets the weight restrictions above. 3. Use a tow dolly with brakes rated to tow the toad you have in mind and that meets the weight restrictions above. Clearly, the first is the easiest. But, if you change vehicles often, the tow dolly makes sense. If you LOVE your current vehicle and want to tow it 4 wheels down, the second option makes sense.

A very nice summer destination, particularly for kids is Red River, NM. Lots to do and COOL temperatures because of the elevation. We have seen lots of families there-- the closest "cool weather" to your area. Hopefully, some other families will chime in.

John, What area(s) do you travel to-- short trips out of Mckinney or long trips? Any particular time of year? What are your interests/ interests of your kids?

Until the Allison shift pad illuminates, it will not start. There are two fuses to the Allison-- one for memory, one that turns on with the ignition on. Check both.