wolfe10

dba4777, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. We need to be sure what chassis/transmission you have, as Safari used several during that time period. If this is a Diesel Pusher with the Allison 6 speed transmission (MD3060), your symptoms sound like either the IGNITION SWITCH or IGNITION SOLENOID is not functioning. So, first question-- what is chassis battery voltage? Do any "only work with the ignition on" items work-- dash HVAC fan, for example?

John, Do you have a humidifier or DEHUMIDIFIER in the coach. A small house-type dehumidifer set on 50% humidity works very well. If stored where you don't have access to the coach, but do have electricity, set the dehumidifier on the kitchen counter (secure it well) and let it drain into the gray tank. Been there, done that. Even the smaller 30 pint units work very well.

bmcloud, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Lots of posts on this. On the "towing" forum, enter "Escape" into the search box (upper right).

Here is an earlier thread on Glacier here on the FMCA Forum: http://community.fmca.com/topic/4281-recommended-campgrounds-near-glacier-national-park-in-montana/

No, there are no trains to Alaska. There is a train within Alaska (Seward to Fairbanks if I recall correctly). There IS the Alaska Marine Highway (a system of drive on Ferry Boats) from the lower 48 to Alaska.

Ray, Give PacBrake a call with your engine serial number. Let us know what you find out. Pacbrake 800 663-0096

Lyle, My recommendation would be to call Damon, talk with the foreman who builds them to see his suggestion. Would be like having X-ray vision of what is up there.

Assume you are talking about fans at the top of the outer refrigerator access area that exhaust upward? If so, you should be able to see them by looking up from the lower outside access door. If not, certainly from the upper vent. Be aware that some are thermostatically controlled, so they may not be on in low ambient temperatures.

You can check the back pressure (which generates the braking HP)-- at least on the PacBrake, there is a port on the side to accomplish this. Obviously, any exhaust leak between head and exhaust manifold, manifold itself or manifold and exhaust brake will not allow full PSI to build. And, as already posted, the PRXB PacBrake generates more braking HP at lower RPM's-- the same at higher RPM's. But, not having to go to high RPM makes the brake a lot more pleasant to use.

To add to what Ray said, a belt tensioner that is "jumping" also loads/unloads all the accessory bearings driven by that belt such as alternator so it shortens their life as well. Brett

Automatic belt tensioners are wear items. Here is a good, short video by Gates Corp: http://www.gates.com/tensioner/tensioner_video.html

Guys, Gas vs Diesel discussion ALWAYS get a little heated-- strong feelings on both sides. Please remember common forum etiquette -- it is OK to challenge other's FACTS or OPINIONS. It is NOT OK to make personal attacks. There is a place in the RV world for both fuel types, and there are excellent reasons for both. The fact that it is a better choice for YOU does not necessarily make it a better choice for someone else. But, that applies to a lot more than just type of fuel! Thanks. Brett Moderator

Those same charts also give "Revolutions per mile" for each tire.

Freightliner Gaffney 800 385-4357

Locate the GFI outlet or breaker. Many coaches have two. Push the "reset" button.

Actually, it is quite possible that the gauge IS accurate. Remember, the gauge is reading TOTAL restriction on the air intake. This includes intake on the side/rear of the coach, ducting to the air filter, air filter condition AND SIZE, and ducting from filter past the air filter minder to the engine intake. I know that there were some CC's with inadequately- sized air intakes/filters. Check with one of the CC owners websites and you will find posts on this.

John, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. There are several good discussions on TPMS's here on the Forum. Here is a good one to start with: http://community.fmca.com/topic/6192-which-tire-pressure-monitoring-system-is-best/

Yes, I STRONGLY believe (and teach at the Seminars I give at Rallies for the http://www.dieselrvclub.org/ and Caterpillar Engine Maintenance Seminars at FMCA Conventions that one is responsible for keeping up with what needs to be done as far as Preventive Maintenance on their rig. That is not to say that one needs to do it-- it can be 100% hired out, do it all yourself or a combination. But the point is YOU need to know what needs to be done and when. BTW, air dryers are a critical safety item (think air brakes). Use only FACTORY parts, not knock-offs from overseas. Read on the box!

On a diesel, a good way to check for exhaust leaks is to look for BLACK-- the soot left from combustion. A good flashlight is the only "tool" you need.

Yes, both 255/70R22.5 and 255/80R22.5 are available.

A/C compressor clutch bearing is easy to diagnose. The noise will be different with dash A/C ON vs OFF.

Ron, Is this a constant noise? Only does it for the first few minutes? Only under certain conditions? Does it change with RPM?

Frank, There were some posts in answer to your earlier query: http://community.fmca.com/topic/6254-water-pump-no-power/

Clay is correct-- the issue is with the fiberglass, not paint. The only real "solution" was whole exterior side wall replacement.

Watched the video. Just an extra gauge to tell you when to "lightly fan" the service brake pedal to lower pressure to CUT-IN pressure so the governor turns on the compressor until it reaches CUT-OUT pressure.