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Gerald, Indeed those are minimal needs. So, minimum battery requirement would be more dictated by maximum amp draw from the inverter. As an example, if you want to be able to run the microwave for 30 minutes and use a hair dryer without shore power or generator it will require more battery bank than if you know you will never want to do that. Do you have a residential refrigerator-- they also add quite a bit to electrical needs when dry camping? Your present battery bank is sized to allow reasonable dry camping power. If that is not how you use the coach, you may be able to scale back to, say 4 6VDC batteries or 2 8D 12 VDC batteries. That would save some money and about 120-150 pounds of weight.

Gerald, Assuming the 6 6 VDC batteries are the common golf cart batteries (around 220 amp-hrs @ 6 VDC), your current battery bank is 660 amp-hrs @ 12 VDC. Yes, you could choose to go with the same amp-hrs in 12 VDC (3 8D's), though in general quality 12 VDC batteries are more expensive per amp-hr than golf cart/6 VDC batteries. As far as lower amp rating battery bank of either 6 or 12 volt batteries, the answer depends on how you will be using them. My personal test is that my battery bank run everything I would expect to run overnight (say 12 hours) without needing a recharge and without discharging the batteries more than 50%. Clearly the largest draw would be items using inverter power. You will have to tell us what size inverter you have and what electrical needs you expect for us to be able to suggest reducing the battery size (and the same answer would apply to either 6 or 12 VDC batteries). In fact, just think of two 6 VDC batteries wired in series as a "12 VDC battery in two pieces". Brett

Terry, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. There are a number of topics with lots of posts on that subject under "Buying a Motorhome": http://community.fmca.com/forum/12-buying-a-motorhome/?prune_day=100&sort_by=Z-A&sort_key=last_post&topicfilter=all

Start by checking voltage at the slide motor while someone else is operating it. That will tell you if indeed you do have low voltage or if it is a slide controller issue. If there is more than .5 VDC difference between voltage at the battery while operating the slide and at the slide motor, start by checking that all connections are clean and tight. Too small a gauge wire will also cause a voltage drop under high load conditions.

Here is some information on the Rally that was sent out today: http://www.fmca.com/chapters/area-rallies/508

Joe, You should have the alignment done with the Safe-T-Plus OFF the vehicle. You clearly don't want to change front end geometry to compensate for a mis-adjusted Safe-T-Plus. It normally takes me 2-3 small fine-tuning "tweaks" to get the Safe-T-Plus tracking dead straight. Total time under vehicle to tweak it is less than 3 minutes per adjustment with just a box end wrench. SO, start with an alignment-- verify that coach tracks straight and that the steering wheel is straight. Reinstall Safe-T-Plus (two bolts). Drive and verify that with no side wind, and normal conditions that the coach still tracks straight. If not loosen the 4 nuts holding the U-bolts to the tie rod (9/16"wrench if I recall properly). Move it ever so slightly to correct for any pulling. I put a wrap of tape on the tie rod where the bracket attaches to help guide my tweaking. Brett

Clay, Actually, the ProSine 2500 is an inverter/charger with the 3 stage charger portion capable of 100 amps: http://www.xantrex.com/documents/Discontinued-Products/DataSheet/DS20070503%20Prosine%202.5-3.pdf

Actually, FREDS are considered a step up from a gas chassis and a step down from a DP. It is reasonable that there IS the middle step.

I will restate-- I understand how it can be wired, but don't understand the advantage. As the 2/1 battery bank discharges, the cells in the single 6 VDC battery will be drawn down at twice the rate of the paralleled batteries leaving little advantage to the extra paralleled battery. Said another way, the battery bank will need to be recharged when the weaker battery's specific gravity drops, even though the paralleled batteries still carry more of a charge.

Chris, Sorry, that has me puzzled as well. Easy to understand the "2 in series"-- just the standard configuration for two 6 VDC batteries to make a 12 VDC battery. But, what does ONE additional 6 VDC battery do for you? What terminals are connected to what terminals?

http://www.michelinrvtires.com/michelinrv/toolbox/videos-demos.jsp Click on: RV – The Critical Factor

Marianne, OK, that unit is a small (400 watt) inverter ONLY, not an inverter charger-- it only takes 12 VDC and "makes" 120 VAC or accepts 120 VAC from an external source and "passes it through". It does not charge the batteries. The good news concerning your converter is that it has or you can easily add a CHARGE WIZARD to convert it from a "stupid" converter to a smart three state one: http://www.progressivedyn.com/rv_converter_pd9145a_2.html

Actually, 5% a month is the commonly accepted discharge rate for a wet cell battery in excellent condition. If you have a smart charger, properly programmed and 120 VAC available, IMO that is a better option.

Keep calling different dealers. I personally would not accept tires more than 4 months old except in an emergency.

If you have a smart charger or smart inverter charger and it is properly programmed, leave it plugged in 24/7. Please let us know what converter, charger or inverter charger you have and we can advise. If in extreme cold and you can't keep then fully charged (i.e. plugged in or solar charger with no snow on it), yes remove them and store in an area above freezing. Even a 5 watt solar panel (if exposed to the sun-- not in the Pacific NW, covered with snow, etc) should keep them charged if you start with fully charged batteries. But, easy to test-- just put a voltmeter from positive to negative terminal-- 12.7-13.5 is OK, particularly in cooler temperatures. Even if you disconnect them, they will "self-discharge" over the winter. Storing a battery deeply discharged materially shortens it's life. Brett

David, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. You will hear answers on both sides of that one. Personally, for more than a decade, while in storage, I have used the HWH jacks to relieve about half the weight from the suspension. Never a problem. If stored outdoors, I would put something under them so they are not in direct contact with the ground and would wipe the cylinders down before retracting if they got dirty.

Bottom line-- if you seldom dry camp and have minimal electrical needs when you do, you can get by with a smaller battery bank. Proper size battery bank (my opinion) is that it will keep you comfortable overnight without discharging below 50%. For a few, that may be a pair of quality 6 VDC batteries. For many, 4 or them. Add a residential refrigerator and ice maker and you WILL need all 6. Brett

Chassis and wheel size will help dictate what tires will fit on your coach. Let us know that information and perhaps we can offer suggestions. Brett

Bill, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. An easy way to rule out a problem with fuel pickup in tank (we assume this happens even with more than 1/2 full fuel tank) and fuel line is to run the generator from a gas can next to the generator with piece of fuel line to the generator. As with anytime you are working with a flammable be careful doing this.

Common name for the house battery disconnect-- normally near the door. Salesman can leave all the interior lights on and just hit one switch to turn them on/off.

Gerald, Yes, if the corrosion is up in the wire jacket, the wire needs to be replaced. Copper oxide does NOT conduct electricity. And, the resistance caused by compromised cables can cause overheating and in extreme cases, fires. Since these are the negative cables, no need to disconnect anything at the batteries-- just be careful to keep the negative cables and tools clear of the positive terminals. If you have an old scrap of inner tube, laying that across positive terminals is added insurance against a dead short. I would turn off the salesman switch and probably pull the fuse for the refrigerator, so the PC boards will not see make/break/make/break voltage as you disassemble/reassemble. You should be able to find premade battery cables at businesses that sell batteries, service golf carts, marine stores, etc.

Tread wear rarely enters into the equation on RV tires -- they age out before tread wear becomes an issue. There are other factors that influence the "safe life" of a tire -- to the point that it is impossible for us to render a "good until this date, bad after" declaration. Other factors affecting tire life: Only run at correct tire pressure vs. ever run low on pressure. Protection from UV light -- stored indoors or covered by white (for less heat) tire covers vs outdoors in direct sun Driven monthly and far enough and at highway speed to allow emoluments in the tire to migrate to the surface vs parked for long periods of time, I can tell you Michelin's official position is that beginning at 5 years the tires be inspected by a tire expert. Certainly another consideration is how long you will keep the coach. No point in running them into the "high risk" age only to replace them just before selling/trading. Better to have you safer than to sell with new tires on it.

Probably difficult for anyone to give you specific ideas on what would be pleasing to you and within your ability to do or budget to pay for having done. We are in the process of remodeling our second motorhome. Already replaced all flooring with cork, recovered headboard, valances, refinished table, new Flexsteel sofa, etc. By doing the work ourselves, we have a nice coach that suits our tastes at a very reasonable price. As far as ideas, probably start on "for sale" websites that have a lot of interior photos as well as exterior photos where you may see something that trips you fancy. And, if someone has posted remodel photos or ideas here you want more detail on, just ask. Brett

Thanks, we didn't know if winter weather was part of the equation. Brett

There are coaches wired such that they do not charge with the battery switch off. Others continue to charge whether the battery disconnect switch is on or off. But, that is very easy to determine: Check voltage when plugged in, batteries disconnected for at least 2 days. Check voltage when plugged in, batteries connected. And, as Rich said, it is very important to have the inverter/charger properly programmed. Instructions are in the inverter/charger manual. Brett