wolfe10

You might start by looking at this thread: http://community.fmca.com/index.php?showto...;Big+Bend\ And with those two rigs, the only CG that would be ruled out would be the Basin because of the switchbacks. Brett

First question is how long your rig is. That will determine whether you can access the Basin. Brett

Thanks, Jim. "Inquiring Minds Want To Know". Brett

What model generator do you have? Brett

It is my understanding that he had a diesel tech come out and diagnose the fuel lift pump as bad. Brett

No question, after humidity stabilizes, that will have to be reglued/rebuilt. Brett

Consider getting a small house-type dehumidifier if you have shore power. They are quite effective. The crystals, etc have very limited absorption ability. When our coach is in storage, we have a small dehumidifier on the kitchen counter, draining into the sink/gray tank. Brett

Welcome to the FMCA Forum. My suggestion is to contact KVH: http://www.kvh.com/Support.aspx http://www.kvh.com/Support/Contact.aspx Brett

With air brakes, as the original poster has, the emergency/parking brake is the rear brakes, very rarely a drive shaft brake. Drive shaft brakes are common on gasoline chassis and perhaps some FRED chassis. Brett

Pam, First thing to check is how renting out your RV would affect your insurance and mortgage ( if you have one). Many lending companies and insurance companies view personal ownership/use differently than one used as a commercial venture. Brett

An additional concern is the towing capacity rating of your chassis/coach. Remember, the weakest link dictates. That may or may not be the hitch. Transmission, brakes, frame extensions, etc may lower the ratings. Brett

Tim, First, check for stored codes in the Allison ECU (using the shift pad). If no problem found, I wonder if they messed with the wiring.The exhaust brake signal goes from the exhaust brake switch/throttle position sensor to the Allison ECU and THEN to the exhaust brake solenoid. So there is an IN and OUT wire at the ECU. Only other item is the Allison ECU itself. Brett

RJ, Let me suggest that you contact Goodyear with that question: 800 321-2136. Brett

While all opinions are welcome, let's keep the facts straight. While there may be side radiator hydraulic systems that run 100% of the time, the VAST majority of these systems are two speed or variable speed. So, their HP demand for running the cooling fan(s) is normally proportional to cooling needs. The vast majority of rear radiator coaches are direct drive, so the fan takes the same HP when it is 20 degrees F as when it is 100 degrees F. The Horton Fan Clutch is an option that turns the rear radiator from direct drive to a two speed fan with low speed taking less HP just as stated by ror1821. I have never seen a side radiator that sucked from the engine room and exhausted the side. If that is what yours does, PLEASE CONTACT YOUR CHASSIS MAKER IMMEDIATELY, you likely have the hydraulic lines to the fan(s) hooked up backwards. Normal air flow is from the side of the coach through the CAC, then radiator with the fan(s) sucking the air into the engine room and exhausting under the coach or through the back. Brett

Yes, if the diameter/revolutions per mile specs are the same, the speedometer and effective axle ratio will be the same. Not sure we can realistically address your "best" question-- that kind of a question generally elicits "what I chose is best". Kind of like Ford vs Chevy. Brett

RJ, You don't state what series of Goodyear tires you are running, but if the G670RV, here is the comparison table: http://www.goodyear.com/rv/products/g670.html Diameter appears identical, so as long as the old tire was not worn (reduced tread, so smaller diameter) AND as long as the old tire was not damaged by carrying the full load that it and its "partner" tire on that side of the dual were supposed to share, this should not be a problem. But, if that older tire carried the full weight of that side of the rear axle for any distance, it would be very suspect since it would have been carrying close to twice its rated load. Mixing different brands of tires on the same axle is not a good idea. I know of no such issue with one brand of tire on one axle and another on the other. Same for new tires on one axle, older safe tires on the other. Only you can make a decision on whether to buy now-- 3-4 months may not be that significant in the overall life of the new tires/your ownership period of the RV. Peace of mind and your safety may. Brett

Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Sorry to hear about your damage-- it happens when rodents are looking for a dry, warmer location. Depending on your generator location, you can cage it with open mesh hardware cloth. I know our generator is in a basement location. I used the open mesh hardware cloth to "rodent proof" the intake (bottom). Brett

Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Best advice because of the several different materials used in awnings is to contact the maker of your awning and ask them. And if restitching is an option look for a boat canvas shop-- they stitch awning material for a living. And that would be my "second best" advice-- run the coach by a boat canvass shop and let them take a look at it. Brett

First, we need to know what material your awnings are made of. Advice for vinyl would ruin Sunbrella fabric. Brett

Don, Part of that depends on the gauge of wire you get in that 30 amp cord. Smaller gauge wire and higher current draws show larger voltage drops. Said another way, buy the 30 amp cord with the largest gauge wire you can find. You can look at the gauge wire used in your 50 amp cord as a benchmark. Another option would be to buy a 50 amp cord and just use the 30 amp male to 50 amp female at the outlet box-- a good idea if you anticipate high current loads. Brett

Absolutely true-- increasing tire load rating may not increase your load rating-- weakest link dictates. And that weakest link may be the tires, brakes, transmission ,etc, etc. But, eliminating the tires as the "weak link" is often a good idea from a safety standpoint if the chassis maker skimped on them. Brett

For a good benchmark of propane prices around the country, go to this Flying J website. In addition to prices on each grade of gasoline, it gives prices at each station for diesel AND PROPANE. http://www.pilottravelcenters.com/Location...tTemplate=false Brett

My concern is that without some of these details, he could buy a 1000 watt generator and THEN discover that his big inverter/charger overloads it (as many will when charging a discharged battery bank). Said another way, many larger inverter/chargers require more than 1000 watts in 120 VAC to power the charger with deeply discharged batteries. Better to get enough facts to make a wise purchase first time around. Brett

John, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. We will need more details on exactly what electrical components you have as well as your electrical consumption to give you good advice. Is the generator gas or diesel? How many amp-hrs is your house battery(s)? Estimate your 24 hour amp-hr use. What converter, charger, or inverter/charger do you have? How much 120 VAC it draws at maximum charge rate will determine what size "small" generator you would need. If an inverter/charger, has it been programmed? This information will also give you a better idea of how many hours you would need to run the "big" generator to recharge the batteries.

Bill, If the temperature of the outside of the condenser case is below the dew point of the air inside your coach, you will get condensation on the outside that will drip. Insulating it should solve your problem. Also, running the dash air on recirculate should lower the humidity of the air inside the coach. Brett