wolfe10

Did they clean it (the CAC) from the FRONT? That is where the vast majority of the dirt will be, as the CAC serves as the "filter"/first thing in the air flow. It is not possible to clean well from the back-- enough force from the back to go through the thick radiator, air gap and CAC and still have enough force to knock dirt off the front of the CAC would likely bend the fins on the radiator. Yes, cleaning from the back is better than nothing, but is not close to what you achieve by cleaning the front.

And, if you find that you don't have enough adjustment in the OE set up, these infinitely adjustable links work very well (come in two length ranges): https://www.heightcontrolvalve.com/shopexd.asp?id=109

Yup, two questions: Smart wheel? Any other things that only work with ignition on not working (like dash HVAC fan, transmission shift pad, etc)?

If you have the metal tank ends bolted on, before concluding that the radiator is toast, try torquing the end tank bolts/nuts.

Absolutely start with the factory ride heights. Set rear FIRST. Then set front with the "average" side to side being to spec. Let us know the before and after.

The owners manual should say how it should be connected-- hot, neutral and ground OR TWO hots, neutral and ground. Also, when you say it won't work, does it do anything if it is the only 120 VAC device you are using? Does it just not try to operate or does it try and the breaker trips? If tripped breaker, which one-- CG breaker? Coach main breaker? Stove breaker? Lastly, what amp breaker is the stove on and is it a duplex (two breakers pinned together just like the main breaker on 50 amp breaker panels). That will also tell us if this is a 120 or 240 VAC appliance.

Ya, but there are some pretty ones along the Colorado River.

Peter, Interesting-- happening when I use that link as well. But, I get to it just fine when I did a google search for: "Meritor front axle serial number location 1990 axle" The very first link is to this Meritor downloadable PDF: https://meritor.com/productsandservices/.../Product Identification Guide.pdf See if you can access it that way.

cuemein, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Please clarify something for us-- is your induction stove wired 240 VAC (i.e. requires TWO hots) or is the problem excessive draw while on anything less than 50 amp electrical service?

On the Meritor axle, the tag with model and serial number is on the front middle of the I beam axle. Here is a breakdown (go to "Front non-drive steer axle): https://meritor.com/productsandservices/.../Product Identification Guide.pdf

If this is the Interstate 8D: https://www.interstatebatteries.com/products/8d-xhd Most 8D's it weights around between 120 and 160 pounds. I agree with Ross-- it sure feels like 380 pounds! Normal amp-hrs is around 230 @12 VDC That is comparable to a pair of 6 VDC golf cart batteries wired in series-- both in terms of weight and amp-hrs.

As most of you know, FMCA Staff is tied up with the Convention. They asked me to post this for them: So, as soon as details are worked out they will be posted. Brett From: Daniel Ball Sent: Wednesday, July 25, 2018 10:46 AM To: Brett Wolfe Subject: RE: Hankook tire program The Board voted to add Hankook Tires as a 3rd option for members. Details and an agreement are still being finalized.

Peter, Do you have the info off the axle plate-- most front axles have a plate with manufacturer, series and serial number.

I know the front leaf spring suspension was in place. Sorry, don't remember if there were other upgrades to it. Liquid Spring could certainly tell you all the details about their demo coach.

Actually, a pretty complex question. Leaf spring coaches can be leveled by adding leafs to the low side or by adding shims to the low side. But, this will not materially change ride quality. When talking about ride quality, only you can determine how much to spend on improvements. Will Liquid Spring give you a better ride and handling than air bags-- absolutely. I have test driven a 2017 Ford F53 coach with it. I understand several manufacturers are now offering it as an upgrade option on new coaches.

That is NOT what Lois said!

Actually, a much more complex issue that one would expect. Variables: What is your current battery bank? Room for more/different arrangement? How often do you dry camp? What are your battery needs (amp-hrs per day) when dry camping (include use of your inverter)? Are you willing and able to check water level or is "maintenance free" an important feature? What converter, charger or inverter-charger do you have (having a huge battery bank with only a small charger is not a good match)? If dry camping much, do you have solar-- if so, how much? Smart controller? SO, the answer could be as simple as the least expensive pair of golf cart batteries from Sams/Cosco to a couple of Lifeline 8D AGM batteries.

If the engine is still to OE spec (not been hot-rodded) AND you select a gear where you can still (barely) accelerate, EGT's should not be a problem. Yes, WOT, particularly in hot summer temps can push the envelope.

Jerry, Yes, some generators are wired with the two hots "opposite each other" (will read 240 VAC between them). But, others are wired with the two hots "on the same side" (will read 0 VAC between them). If this is how it is wired, an open neutral will not result in high voltage. Give Onan a call with your model and serial number, they can tell you which way yours is wired. Onan 1-877-938-6762

Quite possibly. And, since it appears there is a dead short, VERY likely in this case. So, either find where the dead short is or remove the hot and neutrals for those circuits at the main breaker box (yes, assuming the OP is safe working around 120/240 VAC).

Jerry, Would appreciate your checking to make sure you do have 240 VAC between the hots. Many generators with two hots do not.

Very likely that the factory ran the wires, particularly if those were options-- much easier to run as part of the wiring loom than to have to run them later if the owner chose that option.

Not sure how an ATS could cause high voltage ??

Yes, that is WAY too high. What is your HZ-- wonder if that is too high as well.

Agree, that at your convenience you should trace down where you have that dead short on the dishwasher/washer-dryer circuit. As far as generator AC voltage, I would be less concerned about no-load voltage than voltage under load. What is voltage with one A/C on? Two A/C's on?