wolfe10

Be aware that that engine was used with a number of rear axle ratios and tire sizes, so there will be no "here is their RPM at a given speed for all applications".

rclmml, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Really depends on how your coach/toad wiring is currently done. You may already have the proper wiring, but if you are running your battery down, probably not. For charging, best to have 10 gauge wire from coach chassis battery to plug and then from toad plug to toad battery. IMPORTANT: fuse at each battery. If you want it to automatically disconnect when the coach engine is not running, use a 40 amp relay at the coach battery end with an "ignition hot" as the close relay trigger. Be sure your wiring also includes a good ground between the two vehicles.

We often buy fuel at Sam's Club-- yes, including diesel for the coach. They are high volume stations. And, a couple of times a year, they have a heck of a sale on passenger car/truck tires. We replaced tires on our car with $80 off a set and free installation and balance ($60 normally).

670 or 159???

Gregor23, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. It is quite common for the chassis to be a model year earlier than the coach. The chassis has to be built and then shipped to the coach builder where it may sit for a few months before having a coach built on it. The year (for registration, etc) is based on the COACH model year. Yes, for chassis items, use your chassis VIN/chassis year.

You will need to cap off the propane line-- either there at the back of the refrigerator or at some junction further "up-stream". Cleanest is at the manifold by the propane tank/regulator if that is how it is plumbed. On the 12 VDC, you can just use a butt connector on the positive and on the negative (positive being the more critical). That will isolate the copper from touching anything. If you have a separate fuse, you can pull that as well. But the butt connectors are the critical part. Would hate for someone to look at the fuse box and replace a missing fuse and cause a short.

ptwiskers1, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. As with all heavy vehicles, the speed on a grade depends on coach WEIGHT, HP and what RPM/throttle you are willing to use. Pretty hard to compare a 24' Class C with a 31' Class C, even if they have the same chassis/engine.

Very, very nice work. I am sure you verified clearances needed above the propane heater with the heater installation guide.

GABob, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Look on the GVWR sticker on the driver's door jam. OR look on the outer rear wheel-- it should be stamped there.

A burner area TUNE-UP consists of: Turn off the refrigerator and wait a few minutes for the burner area to cool off. Start by lightly rapping on the chimney to knock loose any dirt or rust that is about ready to fall. Remove and clean the burner tube. If slits are eroded/rusted, replace it. Remove and clean the gas jet-- use alcohol to clean it-- do not put anything hard through the orifice. Remove the ignitor/flame sensor and clean, removing any carbon or rust build up. Reinstall above, setting the spark gag (gap between ignitor and burner tube to spec). This can range from a very easy 5 minute job with just hand tools to an hour of contortionist work-- depends on how good your coach maker was in aligning the refrigerator outside access door with the burner area. I have worked on some that were VERY easy and some that were really frustratingly stupidly positioned.

That should be the Caterpillar C 7. Still a parent bore engine/no cylinder liners.

The Caterpillar C7, like the Cummins B engine is a parent bore engine/no cylinder liners, so harm from incorrect cooling eroding the cylinder liners is NOT a problem. Sure, you do need the correct coolant to protect the metal of the engine and cooling system, but that is more of a long-term issue.

ronandpam, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. From your question, I presume this is a rear radiator/rear CAC set-up rather than side radiator/side CAC. You should have access to the top of the engine from the bedroom or a closet if you have a rear closet. How much access really depends on floor plan and how much Monaco thought engine access was a priority to buyers.

Irrespective of the root cause, you definitely need to get it fixed before driving very far or you could do serious damage.

Rockwell= Meritor https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Meritor In 1997, Rockwell International spun off its automotive business as Meritor. In 2000, ArvinMeritor was formed from the merger of Meritor Automotive, Inc., and Arvin Industries, Inc.[2] On February 1, 2011, it was announced that the company would revert its name to Meritor, Inc. at the Mid-American Truck Show in late March.[3] The name change was successfully completed and launched on March 30, 2011.

Yup, absolutely no standards here. Some measure from a given place on the body to the ground. Some from suspension member to chassis rail. Etc. Anytime you get your ride height specs, as Jim said they will include both a DIMENSION/DISTANCE and a "measure from point A to point B".

Ron, Can you tell if the leak is coming from the radiator/tank joint or from the "body"/center part of the radiator?

Did they clean it (the CAC) from the FRONT? That is where the vast majority of the dirt will be, as the CAC serves as the "filter"/first thing in the air flow. It is not possible to clean well from the back-- enough force from the back to go through the thick radiator, air gap and CAC and still have enough force to knock dirt off the front of the CAC would likely bend the fins on the radiator. Yes, cleaning from the back is better than nothing, but is not close to what you achieve by cleaning the front.

And, if you find that you don't have enough adjustment in the OE set up, these infinitely adjustable links work very well (come in two length ranges): https://www.heightcontrolvalve.com/shopexd.asp?id=109

Yup, two questions: Smart wheel? Any other things that only work with ignition on not working (like dash HVAC fan, transmission shift pad, etc)?

If you have the metal tank ends bolted on, before concluding that the radiator is toast, try torquing the end tank bolts/nuts.

Absolutely start with the factory ride heights. Set rear FIRST. Then set front with the "average" side to side being to spec. Let us know the before and after.

The owners manual should say how it should be connected-- hot, neutral and ground OR TWO hots, neutral and ground. Also, when you say it won't work, does it do anything if it is the only 120 VAC device you are using? Does it just not try to operate or does it try and the breaker trips? If tripped breaker, which one-- CG breaker? Coach main breaker? Stove breaker? Lastly, what amp breaker is the stove on and is it a duplex (two breakers pinned together just like the main breaker on 50 amp breaker panels). That will also tell us if this is a 120 or 240 VAC appliance.

Ya, but there are some pretty ones along the Colorado River.

Peter, Interesting-- happening when I use that link as well. But, I get to it just fine when I did a google search for: "Meritor front axle serial number location 1990 axle" The very first link is to this Meritor downloadable PDF: https://meritor.com/productsandservices/.../Product Identification Guide.pdf See if you can access it that way.