wolfe10

wjodseod, Yes, welcome to the FMCA Forum. Yes, size of battery banks is absolutely related to how much and for how long you want to be able to run 120 VAC appliances off the batteries. So, if this is not something you need, you can cut back on the amp-hrs of the battery banks. You can stick with 12 VDC batteries or choose to replace them with PAIRS of 6VDC batteries wires in series (to give 12 VDC).

Yes, if your inverter/charger mentions a battery temperature sensor and it has not been discontinued, should be easy. Most connect to the inverter/charger with a telephone-style plug. Now, routing the cable from battery to inverter/charger still needs to be done, but they SHOULD be close together but in separate compartments. But, they can fail-- has a coach a month ago that had a good inverter/charger with 150 amp charger section that would not show over 40 amps charging, even when he purposefully let batteries discharge to 50%. Disconnected the temperature sensor at the inverter and set it to "cold" (coach was in Eagle Nest, NM at 8,000' so that was an acceptable setting). Immediately upon plugging into shore power went to 130 amps. Since he dry camps occasionally, he was wasting a LOT of generator run time. Once you have reprogrammed the inverter/charger, the next time you need to adjust the temperature setting, should take 20 seconds from your remote panel (unless your inverter is REALLY old). So, I have no problem with doing this manually and not spending the $$ and labor to install a temperature sensor.

Roland, Whether you reset twice a year or with each season depends on ambient temperatures. And, if you leave Michigan late in the fall for Arizona, you may need to reset it again. Look in your inverter/charger owners manual for recommendations. Correct float voltage at 90 degrees F is VERY different than float voltage at 40 degrees F. If you tell the inverter/charger what to do it is very smart! Again, this is IF you do not have the optional battery temperature sensor from your inverter/charger manufacturer.

Agreed. The inverter/charger primary job is to charge the house bank. Set your charge specs for AGM. And, unless you have the optional battery temperature probe, re-set them with the seasons to reflect ambient temperatures!

bruceschindler, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. If superficial, just clean it off, treat with a rust inhibitor and re-paint. If pits are deep, have an authorized propane distributor inspect it.

Yes, your generator and roof A/C are designed to be used while driving. And, just a suggestion, but you might modify your signature to reflect what coach you have. That will allow much more accurate answers.

Five, Counter point: To save money, many coaches are on marginally sized tires. Said another way, there is little safety reserve with the OE size/load range tire. Were my tires loaded to over 85% or so of their carrying capacity, I would sure consider upgrading.

Travelin2, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. I would slightly rephrase that. A larger size MAY cause interference issues. Unless you reduce cut angles to avoid contact with body, suspension or chassis elements (easily done with some steering boxes such as Sheppard M100) I can't picture how it would change turning radius. And, if it did, it would INCREASE the turning radius.

No, I don't have that breakdown. But, "one time posters and gone" occur on ALL Forums! I agree, not considerate, but just a fact. Brett

Since AGM's are pretty well sealed (yes vent under extreme over-charging), putting them in a battery case would keep the terminals/connections cleaner, but would also hold heat in (a negative) when they are being charged.

u431678, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Please let us know their reason for canceling your reservations. Thanks.

Charles, Tell us what charger or inverter/charger do you have?

Snake eyes on the Allison shift pad often indicates a loss of 12 VDC. If this is accompanied by a loss of other "ignition hot" items such as dash HVAC fan, the issue is likely with the IGNITION SOLENOID or ignition switch.

Bill, To not slosh water out of an ice maker while driving, you are: A. Very lucky B. Only drive on really smooth roads C. Never corner above the speed limit. D.Have a fabulous suspension (OK, put a check mark by that one)

Herman, Agreed. NEVER have an ice maker (in-refrigerator or stand alone) filling/making ice while on the road. The water will slosh out and make a block of ice in your ice bucket.

Please tell us what size tires you want a recommendation on.

Roland, I am surprised your water pump is 120 VDC.

While driving: Leave it on if you want the alternator to power 120 VAC appliances while on the road. Have a residential refrigerator-- leave it ON. If you are not running anything on 120 VAC while driving, turning it off very slightly reduces load on the alternator, as the inverter takes a few amps to be in standby. While on shore power-- really makes no difference UNLESS power goes out. If power goes out, the inverter will immediately pick up the 120 VAC loads. While in storage-- the problem with leaving it on is that if shore power goes out, the inverter could completely deplete your batteries.

Bruce, I would start by just replacing the d2.

The d2 (air regulator) will be close to the on-engine compressor, connected by air lines. https://www.4statetrucks.com/air-electrical-safety/semi-truck-d-2-governor-bendix_6431.asp?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIm_jqg9331QIVC1d-Ch16-grsEAQYASABEgIoL_D_BwE Any parts house that caters to OTR trucks will stock them-- under $25.

Any chance you have a link-- would love to read that article.

NKC914, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. What kind of work needs to be done-- chassis (if so, what chassis), house systems, structure?

They make both sealed and regular wet cells. You can get AGM, gel and wet cell deep cycle batteries in both 6 and 12 VDC. Make sure to program your Freedom inverter/charger to the technology, size (in amp-hrs @ 12 VDC) and ambient temperature. It is a smart charger, but ONLY if you tell it what you need.

Very close to same amp-hr rating as your two 12 VDC's and longer-lived if cared for.

Not sure I would say 6 VDC batteries are "necessary", but two quality golf cart 6 VDC batteries wired in series will not be much more money than two "multi-use" 12 VDC batteries.