wolfe10

OK, closing this one down. As already stated (and this applies to EVERYONE) please do not post threads that are extremely likely to cause negative feedback from the majority of those who use the FMCA Forum as a great resource. The Forum rules in place from the very beginning prohibit posts of a religious or political nature for just this reason. Drama/controversy is NOT the objective of the FMCA Forum. Choosing a topic that is bound to cause controversy on a forum is widely known on all forums as TROLLING. NOT permitted on the FMCA Forum.

Sharon, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. There two answers: Legal answer-- each state has its own requirements in terms of how much a toad can weigh before you have to have brakes on it. The mechanical answer-- no coach was designed to stop itself AND a 3000+ toad.

John, It is my understanding that the ballot will be in the magazine-- I believe the September issue and maybe 2 months after that as well.

I like the idea of checking the level in the oil bath, but leaving the cover off will expose the plastic hub to UV light unless you keep the tires covered. Just something to consider.

Rellert, Yes, welcome to the FMCA Forum. As Herman said, you don't need (actually don't want) our opinions on this, you want the FACTS. With your coach's GCWR, GVWR, tongue weight capacity and your actual coach weight when loaded as you go down the road, you will KNOW. If any of those numbers are not on your GVWR plaque or owners manual, check with Monaco.

You ask where they are. The FMCA Road Trek Chapter has 2500 members, so clearly there are a number of Class B owners active in FMCA: http://www.roadtrekchapter.org/

Not unless Roger Berke has taken on a new associate.

If you are asking whether MPG is a primary consideration FOR US-- no way. If a coach will not fulfill our needs, MPG is irrelevant. Clearly, I would not suggest that what is important to us is or should be important to anyone else! We are very much a 6-4-2 coach owner: Coach must comfortably "drink 6, eat 4 and sleep 2". Have considered downsizing, but if a coach can't do those numbers no amount of fuel savings could make it the right coach for us. With that said, we monitor every gallon that goes in the coach. But more to give early warning signs of a mechanical issue than because we are considering looking for something that gets much better mileage but will not fit OUR needs. Yes, earlier in our RV'ing life we traveled Europe in a VW pop top camper. It fit our needs at that time and in the low 20's for MPG.

Not sure it is reasonable to consider "saving money" as high on the list for changing lifestyle to go full timing. Also suspect from those we have gotten to know over the years who do fulltime is that there is no universal answer. Some sell a million dollar home and hit the road with a 20 year old coach. Others sell very thing any buy their "dream coach". To me that is the good news-- you meet a wide range of people from a wide range of backgrounds who enjoy the RV lifestyle.

Suspect at least as many re-evaluate their needs as necessarily "upgrade" to newer. So, downsizing, upsizing to go full timing, etc probably play quite a large part of the changing motorhome process.

sierradave, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. In a word, YES. Both battery banks should be charged with the engine running.

Ya, the 5.7 and 6.2 GM diesels earned a lot of techs and parts people a lot of money. I was General Manager of an Olds, Cadillac Honda dealership in the late 1970's/early 1980's. Next door neighbor asked what Cadillac for his wife. Engine choices at that time were: 1. the Cadillac 8-6-4 (we called it the 8-6-3 because that was how it ran-- not enough computing expertise to handle cylinder cut out, particularly for Cadillac buyers). 2. GM 5.7 diesel. 3. In the lowest end the Buick V6 gas which was, sadly, the best choice. Too bad they almost single handedly soured the American public on diesels for many decades. Well over half of all vehicles in Europe are diesel. Many are the same models as we have here, but get over 50 MPG.

scottgbwi, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Do you have a Workhorse P chassis with front air bags inside the coil springs or a diesel pusher with full air suspension. The two are VERY different. If P chassis, you can go back with OE style air bags OR go with stronger coil springs from someone like Henderson in Grants Pass OR.

Good. So likely one of the two on-generator breakers was tripped. So that part of the problem is fixed. Yes, you are on the right track for determining which charging "system" is overcharging the batteries. If you have a diode-based battery isolator with external sense wire, first place to check is that both ends of that small gauge sense wire are clean and tight an that the alternator end reads the same as the chassis battery. What happens if there is any resistance between chassis battery and alternator on the sense wire is that the alternator receives a false low voltage reading and boosts it. Another way to verify that the inverter/charger is not the issue is to just turn off the 120 VAC breaker going out to it (in main 120 VAC breaker box).

1. Not sure this is a problem-- the charging source with the higher charger voltage will be primary. This happens on our sailboat when plugged in-- even to the extent that the alternator powered tach will not work with the onboard 120 VAC charger working. 2. Not sure I understand the issue-- assume you mean your EMS senses 50 amp service available.

We seem to be straying a bit from the topic of this discussion. Let's see if we can get it back on track: Should FMCA Allow Towable RVs-- Vote By All FMCA Members Coming Up Thanks, Moderator

Sounds like two separate issues. In terms of the generator, start by turning off both "on generator" breakers and turning them back on. Let us know if that restores both hot legs from the generator. When the generator "overcharge light came on"/16 VDC, were both the generator AND engine running at the same time. If so, difficult to tell which charging source (alternator or inverter/charger) was the culprit.

Tell us what generator you have-- will make troubleshooting a lot more relevant to YOUR generator. And, assume that you did confirm 12+ VDC to lug on generator. Perhaps that is what "connected with full power" means. If the timing of this "no start" was coincidence with changing the batteries, am skeptical of generator issues that just happened at the same time. Jus a word of advice: owning any motorhome without having a digital voltmeter (they start under $20) leads to a LOT of frustration.

Better option on El Paso bypass. From the I 10 east so you don't have to climb that 8% up and then 8% down grade over Trans mountain: 375 north U.S. 54 north. Left/north on MLK/3255 which turns into NM 213. At first intersection, left/west on 404 back to I10. Very little traffic and no steep grades. That is the route we took to Chandler.

Here is the new discussion: Should FMCA Allow Towable RVs-- Vote By All FMCA Members Coming Up Since the Governing Board in Indianapolis approved sending this out to all FMCA members to vote on, the new thread reflects that decision. A better place to discuss both sides of the issue so FMCA members can make an informed decision.

First question is which route? I 10 is a little shorter. I 40 is a lot cooler this time of year? When are you going-- that may help with this question?

hobart, I understand your concern. My fear, and the reason I brought it up is that there are many who are likely to come to the Forum (many for the first time) after they see ballots and articles in the FMCA Magazine over the next few months. People who genuinely want to explore both sides of the issue. People who have not been party to this 15 page long discussion. And, while there are some truly excellent "white papers" in the thread, I fear that 15 pages of posts is not likely to be reviewed. Additionally the title is well outdated. Were those who had such well through out points in this thread to post them in a new thread, I believe they would receive more readership. So, for right now, let's keep this one open, but hope that a new one with some of the more well thought out positions comes to life.

While air bags do wear out, they usually give either visual or leak down warning of failure. Those mounted inboard have a longer life expectancy. If the cords are visible, it is time to replace. I would not proactively replace due to checking like you see on older tires.

With this thread already 15 pages long and the title out of date (Indianapolis is behind us), let me suggest that someone start a NEW TOPIC. Perhaps: Allowing Towables: Upcoming Vote By All FMCA Members. Then we can let this old thread either die a natural death or just lock it with reference to the new thread. And, if you made a particularly compelling argument on this thread-- either for or against, perhaps copy and paste it into the new thread. That way those researching the subject before voting will see reasoned discussions on the issue. Thanks, Moderator

Both timing and symptoms both point to a "connection left off" as the first suspect. Do you have a wiring diagram for your motorhome? It should show wire connections at the battery. OR, with a voltmeter, you can check for 12+ VDC to the large lug on the generator. If present, then check what happens when someone hits the start switch? That will tell you a lot.