wolfe10

ricky5924, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. What converter or inverter/charger do you have? Quite possible it is a smart one and just needs to be properly programmed.

Add to that the Michelin XRV series.

Of course, if you have to put your F (or S or D or L) number on the ballot, there would be no question. This AIN'T ROCKET SCIENCE. One vote per FMCA number!

djcarlson1, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. A question before we get started-- is 11R22.5 the OE size on your coach (per the GVWR sticker which is likely in the nose next to the diesel fill)?

I do exactly the same. MUCH easier before they get baked on.

It is my understanding that ballots will be returned to an independent third parts-- enough said!

Galvanic reaction in salt or even "fresh water" is a very different beast than in a water heater. Again, if Atwood though that an anode was even OK (not even good) they, repeat they would market them as an additional profit source. As a separate question-- on the anodes that are available, what material are the threads made of that screw into the aluminum tank?????

Atwood does NOT RECOMMEND an anode for their water heaters. Their tanks are aluminum, not steel like Suburban. Yes Suburban water heaters DO require an anode. Atwood recommends an annual flushing and replacement of the nylon Atwood drain plug (about $2). https://www.rvupgradestore.com/Atwood-Drain-Plugs-p/80-8489.htm In fact, Atwood does not even sell anodes. Yes, aftermarket companies do, but this is still not Atwood's recommendation.

No question, voltage need to be monitored when loads are applied. Can be done "automatically" as Wayne posted or we just have a large-display voltmeter that plugs into a regular house-type outlet. Depends on whether you want it to be automatically done for you or if you want the responsibility. Be aware that the third option on not checking can be very expensive!

Duane, Thanks for coming back with the answer. Will likely help someone else in the future.

While I am not a fan of KOA (mostly price related), not sure it is reasonable to condemn a CG franchise because of a wiring issue at one park. Very interested in the "what was wrong" with the power.

ONLY DO THIS IF YOU ARE SAFE WORKING AROUND 220 VAC. Touching the metal of the voltmeter probes can be deadly. The two outer straights are the HOTS. The center straight is the NEUTRAL The center round is the GROUND SO: Outer straight to outer straight= 240 VAC Either outer straight to center straight or center round= 120 VAC Center round to center straight= 0 VAC

I also wash mine. Either at home (storage barn) or with permission at some CG's. About 2 hours.

https://www.arprv.com/products.php

Yup, first "RV" (I use that term lightly) got 28 MPG-- a 1958 VW panel truck I bought for $150 with household furniture. Would I go back-- no way. Would my better half go THAT FAR back-- you have to be kidding. As those of you who know me, I do monitor MPG. Is it the overwhelming factor in selecting and operating a motorhome? Not a chance.

Yup, Allison published specs for each of the transmissions: http://www.allisontransmission.com/transmissions/models/motorhome-series Offerings range from the 1000 to the 4000 series. HP from 340 max up to 650. Torque from 575 max to 1950.

What size wheels do you have? I know that with 6.75" wheels, you can go with 255/80R22.5. If 7.5" wheels you have more options. Of course, you will need to verify clearance to body and suspension, but doubt the 255 would be a problem.

While true-- fuel is certainly an expense, depreciation well out-strips all other costs of ownership.

Yes, not quite sure what is bad: Are you talking about the ATS (Automatic Transfer Switch). So the 120 VAC in from shore power and generator-- single out to main 120VAC breaker box? Or 12 VDC, and if so what is it?

Jimmy, Need to start by going up on the roof (or have someone else do it). Remove the A/C cover. Check for mud dubber nest on fan blades that could be unbalancing them. Also check for fan motor mounts and compressor mounts. Have someone then start it while you see what is happening.

Might check here: http://www.midwestbusparts.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=16_317 Shoot them a picture of what you have. Another option is to contact Gulfstream.

Dan, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. As desertdeals69 said, if the battery wired to the boost/emergency start switch is too low to close the solenoid it will not work. It will likely be pretty easy to re-wire the switch to the other battery bank as most coaches have both chassis and house battery powered items up front.

Very strange that the ignition/start circuit would be through the HOUSE battery?? Oh well. But I would check both the IGNITION SWITCH and IGNITION SOLENOID. The key is just used to close the ignition solenoid. So, locate the ignition solenoid. Two large lugs: one hot all the time (connected to chassis battery) the other large lug only hot when the solenoid is activated. There will also be either one or two small terminals. If only one, it gets its 12 VDC positive signal from the ignition switch to close the contacts in the solenoid. Ground is through the metal body of the solenoid to good metal of the coach. If a second small terminal the second one is ground. Assuming one or the other may be at fault: Verify 12 VDC on the small positive terminal of the ignition solenoid when and only when the key is on. If not, remove the wire from the ignition switch at the small terminal. Use a small jumper wire (will only carry a few amps) from the always hot large lug to the positive terminal. Let us know what you find. And remember, there ARE other "safety lock-outs" that could be at play here, but this is a good place to start. If providing positive to the small terminal of the ignition solenoid gets you going, you need to check the ignition switch, the fuse supplying it and any safety lock-outs.

Check, but I suspect the "For recreational purposes only" is to exclude commercial use or renting it out. How in the world would they know whether you stopped at the store on the way to or from a camping trip vs just a trip from your house to the store??

bhamby, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Do you know that generator power is reaching the coach-- do other things like the microwave work (inverter turned off)? There are breakers on the generator itself- would not hurt to turn them OFF and back ON to make sure they are not tripped. Does the thermostat work when on shore power?