wolfe10

Ya, the 5.7 and 6.2 GM diesels earned a lot of techs and parts people a lot of money. I was General Manager of an Olds, Cadillac Honda dealership in the late 1970's/early 1980's. Next door neighbor asked what Cadillac for his wife. Engine choices at that time were: 1. the Cadillac 8-6-4 (we called it the 8-6-3 because that was how it ran-- not enough computing expertise to handle cylinder cut out, particularly for Cadillac buyers). 2. GM 5.7 diesel. 3. In the lowest end the Buick V6 gas which was, sadly, the best choice. Too bad they almost single handedly soured the American public on diesels for many decades. Well over half of all vehicles in Europe are diesel. Many are the same models as we have here, but get over 50 MPG.

scottgbwi, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Do you have a Workhorse P chassis with front air bags inside the coil springs or a diesel pusher with full air suspension. The two are VERY different. If P chassis, you can go back with OE style air bags OR go with stronger coil springs from someone like Henderson in Grants Pass OR.

Good. So likely one of the two on-generator breakers was tripped. So that part of the problem is fixed. Yes, you are on the right track for determining which charging "system" is overcharging the batteries. If you have a diode-based battery isolator with external sense wire, first place to check is that both ends of that small gauge sense wire are clean and tight an that the alternator end reads the same as the chassis battery. What happens if there is any resistance between chassis battery and alternator on the sense wire is that the alternator receives a false low voltage reading and boosts it. Another way to verify that the inverter/charger is not the issue is to just turn off the 120 VAC breaker going out to it (in main 120 VAC breaker box).

1. Not sure this is a problem-- the charging source with the higher charger voltage will be primary. This happens on our sailboat when plugged in-- even to the extent that the alternator powered tach will not work with the onboard 120 VAC charger working. 2. Not sure I understand the issue-- assume you mean your EMS senses 50 amp service available.

We seem to be straying a bit from the topic of this discussion. Let's see if we can get it back on track: Should FMCA Allow Towable RVs-- Vote By All FMCA Members Coming Up Thanks, Moderator

Sounds like two separate issues. In terms of the generator, start by turning off both "on generator" breakers and turning them back on. Let us know if that restores both hot legs from the generator. When the generator "overcharge light came on"/16 VDC, were both the generator AND engine running at the same time. If so, difficult to tell which charging source (alternator or inverter/charger) was the culprit.

Tell us what generator you have-- will make troubleshooting a lot more relevant to YOUR generator. And, assume that you did confirm 12+ VDC to lug on generator. Perhaps that is what "connected with full power" means. If the timing of this "no start" was coincidence with changing the batteries, am skeptical of generator issues that just happened at the same time. Jus a word of advice: owning any motorhome without having a digital voltmeter (they start under $20) leads to a LOT of frustration.

Better option on El Paso bypass. From the I 10 east so you don't have to climb that 8% up and then 8% down grade over Trans mountain: 375 north U.S. 54 north. Left/north on MLK/3255 which turns into NM 213. At first intersection, left/west on 404 back to I10. Very little traffic and no steep grades. That is the route we took to Chandler.

Here is the new discussion: Should FMCA Allow Towable RVs-- Vote By All FMCA Members Coming Up Since the Governing Board in Indianapolis approved sending this out to all FMCA members to vote on, the new thread reflects that decision. A better place to discuss both sides of the issue so FMCA members can make an informed decision.

First question is which route? I 10 is a little shorter. I 40 is a lot cooler this time of year? When are you going-- that may help with this question?

hobart, I understand your concern. My fear, and the reason I brought it up is that there are many who are likely to come to the Forum (many for the first time) after they see ballots and articles in the FMCA Magazine over the next few months. People who genuinely want to explore both sides of the issue. People who have not been party to this 15 page long discussion. And, while there are some truly excellent "white papers" in the thread, I fear that 15 pages of posts is not likely to be reviewed. Additionally the title is well outdated. Were those who had such well through out points in this thread to post them in a new thread, I believe they would receive more readership. So, for right now, let's keep this one open, but hope that a new one with some of the more well thought out positions comes to life.

While air bags do wear out, they usually give either visual or leak down warning of failure. Those mounted inboard have a longer life expectancy. If the cords are visible, it is time to replace. I would not proactively replace due to checking like you see on older tires.

With this thread already 15 pages long and the title out of date (Indianapolis is behind us), let me suggest that someone start a NEW TOPIC. Perhaps: Allowing Towables: Upcoming Vote By All FMCA Members. Then we can let this old thread either die a natural death or just lock it with reference to the new thread. And, if you made a particularly compelling argument on this thread-- either for or against, perhaps copy and paste it into the new thread. That way those researching the subject before voting will see reasoned discussions on the issue. Thanks, Moderator

Both timing and symptoms both point to a "connection left off" as the first suspect. Do you have a wiring diagram for your motorhome? It should show wire connections at the battery. OR, with a voltmeter, you can check for 12+ VDC to the large lug on the generator. If present, then check what happens when someone hits the start switch? That will tell you a lot.

Everyone please be aware, all the Governing Board is approve sending the change out to ALL FMCA members for approval/rejection. It is up to ALL FMCA members to vote (or quietly accept the vote of others)! Again, whether for or against, PLEASE VOTE-- FMCA IS YOUR ORGANIZATION.

Open the "electrical area" (from the roof) and check the capacitors. Suspect one is bad or bad connection.

Na, just got rid of the hot air.

Phil, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. You are right, never heard that one. And have used Transynd in all our Allison transmissions, including 1993 and 1997. I would be looking for an Allison authorized shop, not a truck/motorhome repair shop.

Bigeasy, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Best (quiet, low amp draw and long-lived): https://www.walmart.com/ip/Hella-12V-Two-Speed-Turbo-Fan/32926527?wmlspartner=wlpa&selectedSellerId=0&adid=22222222227021902929&wl0=&wl1=g&wl2=c&wl3=52437674591&wl4=pla-83993625671&wl5=9030524&wl6=&wl7=&wl8=&wl9=pla_with_promotion&wl10=8175035&wl11=online&wl12=32926527&wl13=&veh=sem Run thousands of hours in our sailboat. Come in white and black.

Yes, if the ohm meter did not change when touching the two ends of the fuse, it is BAD. Said another way, resistance across a good fuse is quite a lot lower than across "air"/before you touch the probes to anything.

Not sure I understand. A fuse with only 1 ohm resistance is good. One with infinite resistance aka open circuit would be bad.

tbaldwin, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. You could make a spacer from most any waterpoof material. Cut to size and drill holes to match bracket mounting holes. I would probably just cruise the isles at a box store looking for a 1" thick piece of suitable material. For high tech, we use starboard in the marine industry: https://www.boatoutfitters.com/material/plastic-sheet/king-starboard If you are near a marine area, probably can find someone with a scrap you can have inexpensively.

PLEASE, as Herman said let's keep this civil and never about attacking others. This thread has just stepped over that line. Advice: Always posting in such a way that it appears that the poster is smarter than others is irritating. Attacking them is also irritating. I REALLY hate to shut down threads or delete posts, so lets use the same courtesy in posting that we would in face to face conversations. I will leave this one open and with nothing deleted-- perhaps a good learning experience for those new to the FMCA Forum. Thanks. Brett/Moderator

Yes, as Wayne said, you NEVER replace only one side of an axle's brakes-- unless visiting a ditch is a goal! Said another way, both side's brakes on an axle MUST be the same.

Be sure the inverter/charger is properly programmed, including temperature (unless you have the optional temperature sensor). A little puzzling that the terminals and wires are clean, but surrounding metal has the "growth". That would suggest that either there is a leak in one of the batteries OR an electrical issue between chassis and battery ground. Yes, if resistance between "metal of the coach" and battery bank negative terminal, it can cause an electrical current and "growth" SO, check that all connections between chassis and battery negative are clean and tight. If the "growth" re-appears, pull the batteries and check them individually. Yes, one of the reasons in our coach and boats I use Lifeline AGM's. Guess there are some others on the market now, but we were introduced to the Lifelines on our 1995 Pacific Seacraft Crealock 37' as standard equipment and have found the "up-charge" a good decision ever since.