wolfe10

Everyone please be aware, all the Governing Board is approve sending the change out to ALL FMCA members for approval/rejection. It is up to ALL FMCA members to vote (or quietly accept the vote of others)! Again, whether for or against, PLEASE VOTE-- FMCA IS YOUR ORGANIZATION.

Open the "electrical area" (from the roof) and check the capacitors. Suspect one is bad or bad connection.

Na, just got rid of the hot air.

Phil, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. You are right, never heard that one. And have used Transynd in all our Allison transmissions, including 1993 and 1997. I would be looking for an Allison authorized shop, not a truck/motorhome repair shop.

Bigeasy, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Best (quiet, low amp draw and long-lived): https://www.walmart.com/ip/Hella-12V-Two-Speed-Turbo-Fan/32926527?wmlspartner=wlpa&selectedSellerId=0&adid=22222222227021902929&wl0=&wl1=g&wl2=c&wl3=52437674591&wl4=pla-83993625671&wl5=9030524&wl6=&wl7=&wl8=&wl9=pla_with_promotion&wl10=8175035&wl11=online&wl12=32926527&wl13=&veh=sem Run thousands of hours in our sailboat. Come in white and black.

Yes, if the ohm meter did not change when touching the two ends of the fuse, it is BAD. Said another way, resistance across a good fuse is quite a lot lower than across "air"/before you touch the probes to anything.

Not sure I understand. A fuse with only 1 ohm resistance is good. One with infinite resistance aka open circuit would be bad.

tbaldwin, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. You could make a spacer from most any waterpoof material. Cut to size and drill holes to match bracket mounting holes. I would probably just cruise the isles at a box store looking for a 1" thick piece of suitable material. For high tech, we use starboard in the marine industry: https://www.boatoutfitters.com/material/plastic-sheet/king-starboard If you are near a marine area, probably can find someone with a scrap you can have inexpensively.

PLEASE, as Herman said let's keep this civil and never about attacking others. This thread has just stepped over that line. Advice: Always posting in such a way that it appears that the poster is smarter than others is irritating. Attacking them is also irritating. I REALLY hate to shut down threads or delete posts, so lets use the same courtesy in posting that we would in face to face conversations. I will leave this one open and with nothing deleted-- perhaps a good learning experience for those new to the FMCA Forum. Thanks. Brett/Moderator

Yes, as Wayne said, you NEVER replace only one side of an axle's brakes-- unless visiting a ditch is a goal! Said another way, both side's brakes on an axle MUST be the same.

Be sure the inverter/charger is properly programmed, including temperature (unless you have the optional temperature sensor). A little puzzling that the terminals and wires are clean, but surrounding metal has the "growth". That would suggest that either there is a leak in one of the batteries OR an electrical issue between chassis and battery ground. Yes, if resistance between "metal of the coach" and battery bank negative terminal, it can cause an electrical current and "growth" SO, check that all connections between chassis and battery negative are clean and tight. If the "growth" re-appears, pull the batteries and check them individually. Yes, one of the reasons in our coach and boats I use Lifeline AGM's. Guess there are some others on the market now, but we were introduced to the Lifelines on our 1995 Pacific Seacraft Crealock 37' as standard equipment and have found the "up-charge" a good decision ever since.

The Governing Board voted to send the question out to all FMCA members. Ballot should be in the magazine. Ballots to be mailed to independent auditing firm. SO, IT IS UP TO ALL OF US TO VOTE!

Bill's method is fine-- actually more complete than mine. With mine, because you do not get all the oil out with the pump, I do the process a couple of times. BUT, each time only takes 2-3 minutes. Since oil volume is so small, one quart will change it a couple of times. So, either way is fine. But EVERYONE needs to keep an occasional eye on fluid level. It is a sealed system, so if the level goes down, FIND THE LEAK. If the inner seal leaks, it will contaminate the brakes. If outer, it will show radial streaks from hub out onto the wheel and tire.

Passenger's side of engine forward of the injection pump. Have someone turn the key to ON (not start) while you are back there. The fuel pump/lift pump will start and run for 30 seconds or so.

Ross, That may be the case, but let's throw this Forum into the mix. I am speculating, but suspect that Forum members are younger demographics than overall FMCA members. So, by spreading the word here, hopefully we will make Forum savvy members of FMCA aware of the importance of the ballots AND return their print ballots in high numbers. Not taking a side here, just looking forward to every member being able to vote for how THEY want FMCA to look going forward.

Most wet hubs use gear lube. Some spec 85/90, some straight 90, some 90/140. Best info is to check with your axle manufacturer (should be a little plate on the front of the axle. Probably a good idea to change it based on time not miles in your case. At least after 10 years, it would be on my list. And a pretty easy job if you have a small hand suction pump. Don't even need to remove the drain which can get messy. And, checking the fluid level is something everyone should do-- they do not have much oil, and if it runs out, THE WHEEL STOPS TURNING. Had a coach on one of the RV forums where that happened, it crystallized the spindle and broke it. Whole side of the coach on the ground. Check it with the coach parked on flat ground. There is a ring with arrow on most of the clear window hubs and the words "full". So, not rocket science.

Herman, Couple of points: The Cummins ISL is 8.9 liters. The C is the 8.3 liter Cummins. Fuel pump is NOT in/at the tank, but on the passenger's side of the engine. Yes, some have added a pump up front to push fuel back, as the OE lift pump was more designed with trucks in mind than motorhomes (i.e. a few feet from fuel tank to lift pump, not a many YARDS).

Don, If no external steering stabilizer hanging up and no mechanical issue with steering linkage or steering knuckles, that would suggest that the problem is internal to the steering box. What steering box do you have. Probably not a bad idea to contact them with our symptoms to see if they have an observation. Clearly, this can be a safety concern!

Smart boy-- if Lois is happy, Rich is happy.

http://www.michelinrvtires.com/reference-materials/tire-guide-warranties-and-bulletins/ Big difference is revolutions per mile. Per the Michelin documentation: 255/80R22.5 is 538 revolutions per mile 275/80R22.5 is 516 revolutions per mile That significantly changes your effective axle ratio, speedometer, etc

Rich, Did it look like the brake issue was due to road salt? Other cause(s)?

For the chassis batteries, I would get the HD Perko ON OFF switch which probably most closely follows the ratings of your engine start amp load. For house suspect the medium duty would be just fine. And, on your Xantrex inverter/charger, one of the "programmables" is ambient temperature (unless you have the optional battery temperature sensor that would have a telephone-type connection at the inverter/charger). If you don't have the temperature sensor, and the shop set it perfectly for winter temperatures, you WILL boil the batteries in summer temperatures. Said another way, setting temperature is something that you have to reprogram with the seasons. All done from the Xantrex remote following instructions in your Xantrex owners manual.

Rich, Yes, that sure sounds excessive. Be sure to note if there is any air in the system, which can certainly cause low fuel pressure. A loose hose clamp or crack in those OE fuel lines from the tank bare close inspection.

Bill, A 265/75R22.5 is a lot closer in dimensions to the 255/80R22.5 than is the 275/80R22.5. You might also look at a 275/70R22.5, but will sure has to check clearances to body and suspension components, as well as verify proper off-set and rim width.

Dotson1813, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Much of the answer depends on YOUR needs/desires. The Invisibrake is permanently installed. So, nothing to move in or out. Just hook up and go. But, because it is permanently installed, that costs more money than a "brake in a box". So, if you change toads often, probably not a good choice. But, if you don't like lugging around and installing the "brake in a box", the invisibrake is a good choice. That is what we us, but that does not mean that it is the right choice for everyone.