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What are the date codes And Continental's are good I have them on my FL80

Before you buy new have some one test capacitor as it can cause no run and slow run or spend $5 dollar and replace then try

When you call in tell them the minimum tow truck size is 25 tons that will tow up to about an 80,000 lb rig then it will not be to small

I had to phone to get the price

I email and phoned and left a message so I could renew and no call back If no call I guess I will not be renewing

If the original fill was TRANSYND it has a long life You are likely ok for another few hundred thou

A lot of dishonest company's are hiding behind the covid excuse if this one is call them out and let us all know

You could look at Hydronic Kickspace Heater that is nice and small to add to that space and 120v

I have used chalk on radial tires as long as you do it cold so the pressure goes up with heat not down I like to find the pressure then add two PSI as I can not go by decals with 35 1250 tires on my Jeep Also front tires on motorhome and matched to chart and was within 5 PSI Chart says 100 PSI chalk closer to 105 I run 110 PSI

Chalk the tire and take for a short drive then you can tell if high or low pressure then adjust

I live in Canada and we are cooler and the normal usage is Moab at Easter so mostly cool running and short camping trips in the summer Parked in the shade never parked more than a month with out being off the ground They still had no cracks but changed anyway

I checked my tires every spring when I pull out the supports I replaced my continental HSR tires with date code 2011 and they still looked good and did not want to take a chance as I went across Canada 4500 KM one way in the heat of summer If I lived or used my rig down south I would have to replace a lot sooner

May be a little noisier but ride is the casing not the tread unless you go mud or paddle tires

It can be a lot of things One thing to eliminate is induction on plug wires space them away for each other and if they cross try to have at 90 degs worn advance in distributor failing pickup or module heat induced If you know some one with a big block test with a borrowed distributor good luck and let us know what you find

I have a 1999 Renegade on a FL80 Freightliner chassis I replaced the 4 bags two years ago and they had deep cracks in them You have a choice of quality go for the best as they are not much more

A little PVC and build one

A lost of the truck shop are like that Our local one will only do warranty work on pushers mine is a FL80 super C so they will work on it

Liability If it was a bumper that Lou and the boys made at Rockhard no problem as welding integrity is important Rockhard makes bolt on parts for towing with after market bumpers

If you have covered all the other parts and that is all that is left Part of the ground is burner to electrode so it can see the flame as a small current needs to pass through the flame

The burner safety is not seeing the flame bad ground dirty flame rod ignitor

They can fail and not split open 95% of the time they expand some or split and leak Most HVAC tecs can test for you or your local rewind shop It also could be low and low pressure switch shut off have a tech put a set of gauges on to check

First shut every thing off for 1/2 hour then turn on slowly Also check for electric shut off hooked to gas monitor,check pressure at outlet and inlet of reg good luck

Yes it will Any bleed to ground will trip Hot tubs use 50 and 60 amp GFIs

You could have three air tanks that can get moisture A primary ,a secondary and possible one for your air ride that need to be drained The drier auto purges every time you are up to pressure if to often look for the leak

You create the same amount of heat to slow down no matter hard or soft Use your gears and try to use the brakes less Be safe