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wildebill308

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Everything posted by wildebill308

  1. I would use the dry film lube from John Deer. Bill
  2. This is the way I have done it in the past. 1) Close the tank valve on the coach so you don't empty the RV tank. 2) Use the external tank through the extend a stay when camping. You can always take the external tank and refill it if needed. 3) when on the road use the on board tank. I don't think you can refill the onboard tank effectively using a extend a stay tank. Bill
  3. Welcome to the forum. Is it a private sale or did you buy it from a dealer? The first thing I would do is look at the FMCA tire discount program. I used it last year to save over $600.00 over the discount price for Michilans by buying Continentals. You can call and find tire dealers in your area. https://www.fmca.com/rv-tires-discounts What diesel do you have? What do you need done? Bill
  4. ??? Welcome to the forum. What are you commenting on? Bill
  5. I don't know what you plan on towing, but if you stay within the guidelines I don't see a problem. Welcome to the forum. Bill
  6. Welcome to FMCA. Nice pictures, but what is all that white stuff? Bill
  7. I would try to get some satisfaction from Bounder. My 2003 does not have any issues. Welcome to the forum. Bill
  8. That is not true. The vehicle can be operated for a loss as well as the business that owns it. I think you should do a little more reading of the law. The simple fact it is owned by a for profit business is all the proof they need. Bill
  9. Yes it can, I would look for a F53 wiring diagram and one for your coach. See what you can find here: http://8.ghuttr.nintendomonsen.de/g5/georgie-boy-cruise-master-wiring-diagram.html Bill
  10. Yes lets see, Why would someone upgrade to a 19.5 and run an inferior tire to the original? Can you explain that to me? I am only going to use the current Michelin chart. I don't know where you got your information on the 225/70R19.5 G but it is completely wrong. In a single application at 65 psi it can handle 5510#. (By the way 65psi is the lowest recommended preshure for this tire) but at 110 psi it is rated for 7940#. https://www.michelintruck.com/reference-materials/manuals-bulletins-and-warranties/load-and-inflation-tables/#/ I also wonder why you are advocating running the max sidewall preshure? I would think it would be a better practise to weigh the trailer (all wheel locations or by axel) and adjust the preshure accordingly. Bill
  11. The weight might be slightly higher but in the example I was talking about you only have a increase in diameter of 0.2". That would be less than the difference between used and new. Without a scale I don't know how much heavier the rims are. The confusion I see is people assuming because it is a 19.5 it is bigger than a 16". While the rim is, the diameter of the package is the same. Bill
  12. I re read what I posted and funny, I never said you could increase the load rating. Nor did I say it would be ok to do. What this post is about (pay close attention) is increasing the safety margin from most stock trailer tires. While a lot of people are going to the 16"LT tire this upgrade would improve the safety margin further. Lets see, going from a 235/85R 16 to a 225/70R 19.5 would increase your diameter 0.2" I really don't see a problem. Bill
  13. Saw a trailer with a add on it for a wheel conversion to 19.5. I know they do the 19.5 conversion on Dodge trucks but hadn't seen it on tow behind trailers. http://www.boarwheel.com/ Might be a good idea if you are near your upper weight on your current tires and rims. Bill
  14. I went with Duracell EGC2s because I don't drycamp enough to justify the more expensive set up. We will see how long they last. The last ones were over 6 years old. Bill
  15. Scott, welcome to the forum. Who told you it was a Freightliner chassis? Most likely it is a Ford F53. Looking at the right wiring diagrams will make it easier to find your problem. Bill
  16. I find my dash fans to be quite noisey. Well you already have them, try them, after you get tired of the noise I would look at the ones Brett linked to. Bill
  17. Welcome to the forum. Have you looked at the towing guide? You need to know if the one you are looking at is towable 4 down. Bill
  18. After re reading this I to am wondering why you didn't just plug the coach in as you had power available. The electrical management system in the London Aire is way ahead of the battery minder. Bill
  19. When I bought my CR-V I had the dealer install the light kit. They installed a Blue Ox kit that added additional lights in the tail lights and were not tied into the cars wiring. Bill
  20. What exactly are you looking for? Where are you going? The Mountaindirectory.com has some good information but I have been in all the states in the west and haven't had a problem. I would get some of the apps that help you find where to stay and help you plan your travel. Like RV parkey, Google Maps, CoPilot, Rv park reviews, gasbuddy, for a start. The only time I have seen any problems is when you get off on Secondary state and county roads. Bill
  21. What towbar set up are you using? All the major makers have wiring kits to hook up the lights. You can check Remco towing to. www.remcotowing.com/Towing/Store.php Bill
  22. There is a secret method to prevent it from accumulate miles. I will share it with you. Hook it up behind your RV following all instructions and tow it. I haven't had anything since my 63 VW bus that would accumulate mileage(direct cable drive) when being towed. Bill
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