wildebill308

Me to before it overflowed in the coach. ☣️ Bill

There is nothing like having the black tank burp at you because it is full 2 days after you emptied it. This with little use. After a quick trip outside in the rain to dump the tank. (why is it always raining and dark when weird stuff like this happens) I did a little investigation and found a little water under the water valve on the side of the toilet. I waited till I got back home to pick up a new valve at PPL. It is a pretty simple R&R job. I used a 1/4 drive ratchet and a short 5/16 socket to take the screws out. Good news new screws come in the package The access is kind of tight to get the water lines loose but if you pull the screws you can move it up for easier access. The same going back together. Hook up the water lines then put the screws in. Don't tighten the screws to tight. You can make the foot pedal to tight to move. So when you get it snug test the pedal to see if it moves freely. Bill

I would think the burnt wires would be fairly easy to spot. Bill

That may be a group who isn't organised enough to have a site. I have seen few if any post on the subject. Good luck Bill

Try looking in account settings then in other settings. Bill

That is some good, old school trouble shooting technique. Bill

What I am seeing is the end plug is loose and the o ring is blown out. It looks like a hex drive in the end plug. I would take it out and replace the o ring (any big parts store) and reinstall it and see if it fixes the leak. Bill

Do your symptoms match the ones in this article? http://www.agcoauto.com/content/news/p2_articleid/203 Bill

I haven't, and I am surprised that you have a leaking heater core on that new of a coach. Follow the hoses up to the air box you may be able to see the rigid lines from the core where the rubber lines attach. I would look for a leak there. Just as a double check is the leak the same color as your coolant? As stated before if you decide to drive it you should shut the valve off. Bill

Keep in mind if you don't get it fixed you can run the furnace to stay toasty warm. Bill

Well Harry please enlighten me. Prove to me I am wrong. What wild misconceptions? Kind of strange that all that I posted came from firsthand experience and backed up by the TT posted rules at https://campingpass.thousandtrails.com/contract?qs=4Rule Can you enlighten us? Bill

I added led lights in my tail lights for when I was towing my CRV. I think I got them from Blue Ox. I did not want to tie into the regular electrical circuit. Bill

I still think teaching people to step on the accelerator is primarily to keep them from geting on the brakes before they get over the initial shock. More like a starting point in the process of keeping control. They know most coaches won't accelerate in that first few seconds. Bill

BillnPenny, welcome to the forum. Nice coach. I can understand your desire to head toward warmer weather. Do you have any destinations in mind? Manhole, may be the real translation. Bill

You can go any way you want. I ran it on Google and don't see any major problems. Nearly all of the trip on Interstate and I bet a lot faster than going crosslot on state roads. You might want to look at the terrain on Google Earth. I would probably drive that rout. I have been in that area before as I see pins in Gatlinburg and Spartanburg.😎 Bill

Good luck and safe travels. Bill

You can get a sampling kit heare. https://www.blackstone-labs.com/?session-id=yzghzn55suy5202equsrepjb&timeout=20&bslauth&urlbase=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.blackstone-labs.net%2FBstone%2F(S(yzghzn55suy5202equsrepjb))%2F I recommend geting a vacuum pump at the same time. https://www.blackstone-labs.com/products/vacuum-pump/ The reason is if you don't pull the sample correctly you will get bad/false readings. (I use to work in and run a oil lab when I was in AF) The best practise is to pull your sample and send it in BEFORE draining the oil. You want the results back first. This way if you have a unusual reading you can re check it. If you have dumped the oil you can only guess if the problem is real. I can give you some tips on geting good samples. If you have any questions just ask. Bill

What would be fun to do is run a good synthetic like Rotella T-6. At the 150 hour mark and see how the oil is doing. I have found that on my main engine after 15,000 miles I had more than 50% of the TBN (oil life) left and all contaminants were well below 50% of recommended limits. This is not a recommendation to exceed manufactuers recommendations. Bill

Ok what are your 1-5 choices? Bill

Ok, I already knew about the coupler business being sold off. It is also obvious you didn't do what I told you to do and as you have not supplied all the information, Good luck. Bill

The OP. Who else is changing their generator oil twice a month? Bill

You didn't give me enough information on the ranger. How ever I would go to Remco and see if they think it is towable. http://www.remcotowing.com/Towing/Store.php Remco is in the business of making things towable. Bill

Just curious how much are they charging you to do a oil change on the generator? Bill

Basically only in some tunnels. I don't know about all of Canada. I turned my propane on when I left home in June and didn't turn it off till after I got back in September. Bill

My math sayes running 10 hours a day gives you 15 days to get to recommended oil change interval (150 hours) not 10 days. I run Shell T-6 and can go all year because I don't boondock that much. I would definitely be changing my own oil. You can find oil and filters at Walmart or buy filters off Amazon. I don't think changing 3 quarts of oil and the filter is that big of deal. Most large parts stores accept used oil and filters. Bill