wildebill308

I bought my bushings at Pep Boys. nearly any auto parts store has them. They are a generic type part. Ask for the bushings don't ask for bushings for XYZ motor home. Here is what I posted before: http://community.fmca.com/topic/8004-sway-bar-bushings-bad/ Let me know if you have questions. Bill

Carl, not arguing about what the local cops told you. What I quoted is from the Texas Motor Vehicle Registration Manual The part on "tow dolly's" is under semitrailers. Fun fact, tow dolly's for use behind a motorhome are not registered or controlled but the dolly behind the main wheels on a ready mix truck to spread the weight are licensed. Bill

Well I have decided on my "class" and no, no I don't care what others think but I am willing to try to help the uneducated. I would think that someone who was "a trained inspector" could find a great deal on the used market. Even those who have "plenty of cash" should look at financing rather than tying up their cash in a depreciating asset. It is amazing to me all the 5th wheel aficionados whining about the "lost space" in the front of a class "A" Yet not concerned that they have nearly 75% less basement storage. By the way I could store things on the front shelf when not moving. "I believe the day to day, rolling earthquake going down the highway, has a higher toll on the MH". WHAT! Wayne, I have had some gas coaches that rode hard but not nearly that hard if your 2008 Winnebago Destination is riding that hard you need new airbags. I have watched people tow trailers by me that the whole trailer bounced over the expansion strips. Now here is something I really really need help with-- how is it better for a long term stay to have a trailer and a big truck to drive than having a diesel pusher with much more storage and a car that gets 30 mpg and easy to drive and park. Please explain how the trailer and truck combo is better. Bill

If you are climbing a hill or otherwise driving with you foot flat on the floor or are using cruise control when climbing it is working as it should. You are calling for max acceleration and that is what you are getting. Bill

I was thinking the same thing about the OP's friend not having safety cables or a breakaway switch to his auxiliary brake. I was reading this "he heard a BANG and saw his towed vehicle backing up slowly" and trying to understand how/why the tow bar broke. I was thinking about it later but didn't get back to add to my comment. Let me see, this individual was towing with out a auxiliary brake or at least with out a break away switch, no safety cables he bottoms out the hitch and breaks it and blames the manufacture. The other fun part are how many are jumping on Blue Ox about having a bad product with out any facts. One other possibility is he broke the receiver hitch off in front of where the tow bar stops. This would account for the car separating if he had the safety cables attached. But with out any evidence we can badmouth Blue Ox. Bill

When Blue Ox "rebuilt" my tow bar they changed all the Teflon washers at all the pivot points and replaced the pins that go in to the baseplate when hooking up along with new rubber boots and cleaned and lubed it. Bill

All tow bars will wear out. You do have to do the required maintaince on them. I bought my tow bar used(Blue Ox) and had them do the maintaince it at a rally for $20.00. The teck said I had over 85% of the service life left. From the Ops description the friend most likely drug/hit the tow bar going in to the station there would be little stress at low speeds to cause it to break otherwise. "He heard a BANG" would be consistent with dragging the hitch. I bent up a drop down trailer hitch when towing a dolly. Similar deal trying to get in a driveway from a high crown road. Bent that hitch up like a fishhook, left a grove in the road that is probably still there. Bill

Welcome to the forum. I haven't driven 20 but it is telling that when you do the rout on google maps the longer route is quicker. Going down I-80 to I-5 then back North to Williams would be the rout I would take. Bill

Carl, when I had my tow dolly there was no requirement for plates. Just lights and brakes. "Register towing devices used to transport secondary vehicles behind motor homes, etc., as semitrailers at the owner's discretion. Registration of this type is not required in Texas." This is from the motor vehicle registration manual. Bill

Yes it sounds like you have water getting in some where. The best way to dry the sub structure before patching will take some work but should produce a good result. When you have water behind/in the lauan you need to dry it out. Best way I have found is to use vacuum and heat. You will need a vacuum pump I had one that was an old refrigerator compressor. some plastic sheeting and some thing to seal the plastic down. I have used the 1/4 round caulk that they sell to seal around window instillations. I think double back tape might work to. You will need some felt or open cell hard foam to keep the plastic from sealing over the holes in the fiberglass. I have seen a couple layers of paper towel work. You will need a couple of heat lamps to heat the area. What you are going to do is make a one sided vacuum bag. After you get it dried out you can repair the holes and you are good to go. Bill

Welcome to the forum. They look pretty close to me They are only 0.78inch wider I would run them, just make sure the load range is what you need. Use this site to do your own comparison: https://tiresize.com/comparison/ Bill

This should give you some answers. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0LB5ZhvhXas and this one on changing your oil and routine maintenance. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CxqkHAAH818 and filter https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4G8TjuZfyHE I recommend when you buy coolant to use a "low silicate" formula. Bill

Well you will be able to enjoy summer in Michigan all two weeks of it. Bill

Let me give you a better answer. Look at the regulations in the state you live/are licensed in. other states have reciprocal agreements. If you had filled out your profile and had your info in your signature I could give you a better answer. Bill

No but is required to have lights. Bill

Wish I had a picture of the "pitting" in the fiberglass. Is it just a thin or failing gelcoat? Bill

I am late to this thread. So I will relate actual experience. I drive a Coach and tow a car. The coach gets 8.5mpg the car 30mpg. I have only had a couple bad weather experiences, one was at a rest stop. I didn't have to go out side in the rain. The other was arriving at a campground during a heavy rain. I had a pull through and after I parked I started the generator, had supper and watched some tv until it quit raining. Then went out and finished hooking up. I have ridden in a couple of trucks pulling fifth wheels. Being a front engine they had more engine noise. There is absolutely no comparison to the ride in my diesel pusher. I have helped set up fifth wheel trailers before please see the comments above about what is involved. I will just reinforce the bit about getting around in your prime mover. I have been in to many places where you just can't find a parking spot for a big truck. I have been several places where it was hard to find a place to park the CR-V. Some places where the streets are so narrow it is impossible to get around in a big truck. I do know about driving a big truck, My extended cab Silverado is nearly the same size as most heavy movers. In my area most that started with fifth wheel trailers already had a heavy duty truck. There are more people looking to move up to a motor home gas or diesel than looking to move back to a fifth wheel. Bill

What's Aqua Hot? Anint got nouthing dat fancy in my old coach. Heat pump are just air conditioners that run in reverse. You are cooling the out side while using the waste heat on the inside. That is why they only work down to about 45 degrees out side. At that temperature they just can't pull enough heat from the out side air to be useful. I have used mine but will tend to use the ceramic heaters because they are quieter and I was told to. Bill

Called Brake Buddy and asked if they did a factory rehab. They told me as long as the unit worked and activated when you put the brakes on it was good. The way they said to test it was to strap it in the passenger seat and take it for a ride. if the arm actuated when you hit the brakes it was good. I personally don't see a down side. This is a pretty simple devise that as long as the compressor pumps up and it holds air in the reservoir and the inertia sensor works. Please explain your fears? The tow bar I took to Perry last time (before I had a car towable 4 down) and had Blue Ox re furbish it for me at the rally. The only down side I see is I didn't get to give Camping world or some one another $1600 plus of my gas money. Bill

Just so you know if you have any interest in having your floors re done by Ernie (the best ) He has a fairly long waiting list. It might be good to get on it now. Bill

I haven't been looking but when I was there were several brake systems for sale in different forums and Craig's list. I bought a as new brake buddy and Blue Ox tow bar for $400.00. So it might not hurt to look in those places now. Bill

Carl, you might want to get into Perry before it gets to whet. We are going to get lots of rain next week in Texas. Bill

Horsepower: max @ 4200 RPM, Torque:max @ 3200 RPM. I don’t remember what max rpm is but I think it is governed at between 5000 and 5500. Bill

Best beat is to go talk to a Allison shop. Max torque is at 3200. Bill

Bob, welcome to the forum. You got a reply from the best source I can think of. Ernie is the best I know of or have hear of in the RV flooring business. http://www.ernieekbergflooring.net Bill