wildebill308

I was getting concerned about the grease too. I had not looked at or re-packed the front hubs since I got the coach. Although the miles are much less than in the trucking world, I do like to keep up on maintenance. That is why I was looking at going to the oil hubs. I think the oil hubs are a better system. I was just thinking I do have a small vacuum pump for pulling oil samples. If I can find a container that will screw on I can use it. The tubing is only ¼ so it may fit in to the hub with out disassembly. Bill

Ok My goal is to get this topic back on track. I had always thought my hubs were the grease packed type. Therefore I had not re packed them and haven't pulled the front wheel covers off. Well what do you know I have oil bath hubs. Yesterday I drained the oil (they have the drain ports) and re filled with Royal Purple gear oil. There are a couple of things I noticed: One is the drain plugs have magnets built in, so check for excessive metal shavings. It would be extremely easy to under fill the hub. When you add the new oil it takes a long time to flow back in the hub. It will look full but 5-10 minuets later it is below the line. I was doing a couple other things like changing the oil on the generator so I kept checking the oil level and re filling. I can see how easy it would be to not get enough oil in the hubs. Say at a shop where they were in a hurry to get you out. Well I am glad I pulled the wheel covers off to measure the bolt pattern as I was planning to convert to the oil bath style. I don't know how much the hubs are suppose to hold or that I got all the old oil out (I didn't have anything to suck it out) I may do a repeat after a trip to Fredericksburg next month. Bill

Herman I was hoping for Christmas cards. Bill

Welcome to the forum. Like Herman said we need more info. If you add it to your signature (see my sig) you don't have to add it everytime you have a question and it will help to get better answers. Bill

I self insure. There is a reason they all want to sell you an add on insurance policy, they make money doing it. Bill

One other thing is when you hit a hill and start slowing down, manually down shift in to 5 or 4th. Keep your rpm up around 2000 rpm this will help keep it cooler. Let us know what you find out on the CAC. Bill

That soundes like a place to put on the list for next year. We are going West this year. Bill

I leave it on. Hear is the big BUT if I am leaving the coach and don't have it pluged in I turn it off. Bill

Where are you headed on the first trip of 2016? Bill

Don, only one problem I am never on the road at 2AM. Bill

In that case I think he needs a better lock on the door. Bill

Just a thought could you use one of those clear connectors? I have seen them with a 45 degree and one with just a slight dog leg. This would give you a clear place to watch when you dump and line you up with the hole and less work. OK I went back and looked at the pictures closer and that won't work. So patching looks like a good option. One suggestion is to make your repair big enough you can cut the hole for the "dec plate" without getting into the repair of the old hole. Easier to do than explain. Bill

The poster has posted on several old threads. Just trying to let them know. Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year. Bill

I would think you could take the filter out and see if it had a number on it or take it with you to the store. Bill

Yes next time bring your bike. there are some great roads to ride and amazing places to visit. I recomend Fredricksberg and National Museum of the Pacific War. Bandera the cowboy capital of Texas. The Lyndon B. Johnson State Park & Historic Site. The whole Canyon Lake area. You could wearout your bike and not see it all. Bill

Herman may see your post but it might be better to start a new thread. That is an old thread last active in December 2014. You have been reading deep in the stacks. Keep reeding there is a lot of information available. I think the The FMCAssist Medical Emergency and Travel Assistance Program is well worth the annual dues. You will pay $100.00 for the same or less coverage elsewhere. I have seen it used and it works. Bill

I would call Fleetwood for the location and wiering diagrams. FLEETWOOD: Parts, Service & Technical Support, 800-322-8216 Bill

Carl, Joe was talking Newell so I was showing him one that would look good behind the jeep (in a photo) and also would tow it. Do you think we should email the link to his wife? Bill

I have had it on the to do list but haven't got it done yet. It seems like a opportune time to do the conversion. I am waiting for my oil sample results to come back so I can change my oil. I want to get everything done because we are going south to Fredricksberg Tex end of next month fo a couple of weeks. I have a couple of outer mods I want to get done to. Bill

Glad you found the problem and it wasn't something major. Bill

I think this one would look great as a back drop and it will pull the jeep. http://motorhomesoftexas.com/coachrv/newell_coach/2006--newell--45--C1832 Bill

You have me thinking about doing the conversion. It sounds pretty simple. I don't think I could just fill it up either. Sounds like a good time to remove the bearings and clean and inspect them. Bill

I haven't had a chance to reserch it but is someone making a convershion kit to go to oil bath hubs? Bill

Herman has a good point welding would be the best practice. For best results you will need to remove the tank to clean it anyway. To answer your question, yes simple green would/should work to get the bulk of the hydraulic fluid off/out of the tank. I would finish with acetone before applying the coating or epoxy. We use to use alcohol to clean/break down hydraulic fluid when I was working. Use acetone as final cleaner as it will flash off and doesn't leave a film. Bill

Acetone is your friend. Bill