kaypsmith

Herman, I'm also diabetic, so what's wrong with sugar free Blue Bell Ice cream? After 52 years with the DW, wouldn't trade her for the world Carl.

We never used a trailer, but we decided on the coach because my wife loves the ability to move about in the mh, also the ability to prepare meals as we travel, most trips she has the crockpot in the sink making delicious meals for stops at a rest area, or when we arrive.

The fiberglass can be reskinned if you want to spend the money, or you might want to look at filling the pits, then use vinyl wrap over it. As for scare lights, just avoid Halloween. "LOL" If you are referring to a spotlight on the roof, look on the dash for a switch that has 4 arrows, left, right, up, down, the off/on is usually right beside it. Welcome to the forum. Kay

I use the heat pumps down to 40 then use electric infrared for temperatures below that.

With government like we have today, I would not be surprised, maybe a government assisted loan to purchase an RV next! "LOL"

Carl, my conversion doesn't have slide toppers either, don't have to worry about debris accumulating on top of them. Of course there are no slides, LOL.

I use the Magma nested set also.

You could install a 50 amp air conditioner quick disconnect box right ahead of your current plug in. Can be picked up at most box store building supply, that way you are not wearing out the 50 amp breaker, or sloshing beer all over the place.

I prefer the stainless steel cookware that is designed for induction cooking. If you do not have an induction cooktop, these work well on gas or electric. The stainless steel version for induction have a layer of cast iron clad between the outer layers of stainless, making for more even heat throughout the cooking surface.

I'm dealing with the same issue on my old 6V92, hope it works out as easily as yours Ray.

Herman, I've been looking for a " recuperating saw" for a long time, where did you get yours?

I have 6 feet of 50 amp cord that pulls back inside the coach and remains there, I carry a fifteen foot 50 amp extension that can and usually is added at the campgrounds many times, then I also carry a 30 foot 50 amp that can be used in place of the 15 footer. Only once have I been in a situation that I actually had to use both 15 and 30 feet to make a total of 51 feet if needed. I coil the 30 foot into a 5 gallon plastic bucket and the 15 foot on top of the 30 foot in the same bucket which I have room for in my electrical bay. The bucket serves very well, especially for coiling purposes.

I used to carry an Emerson brand from a target store, used bottled water in it. The unit is still working after 7 years and still works well.

Welcome to the forum SARSteve, and welcome to the world of motor homing. Every day is a new adventure, and if you're not happy with what happens today, just stick around and see what happens tomorrow. Kay

It will most likely be the filter under the kitchen sink. If you have already replaced the filter, you will need to purge the water line to the ice maker. To do so you will need to remove the small line that is attached to the ice maker with water off. Then use a clear glass jar or drinking glass to let water run into after turning the water back on. Let the glass fill and check for those impurities and discard, do this several times until the water is clear. If the black specs still remain in the ice, dump the ice a couple more times and recheck.

Ray, keep us posted and our prayers will be with Hana and you

By nature, if you increase the pull weight dynamics of a hitch, the tongue weight capabilities will increase also. Whether you use that factor or not is purely a choice that is yours. The trailer toad appears to be a good idea for reducing the extra weight added to your chassis. But I believe that the coach manufacturer does need to be the one with the final say as to how much pull weight that anyone's coach is capable of pulling for safety reasons. For instance if you are only pulling in Florida or any other state that is reasonably flat, you probably can get by with pulling some extra load, but the engineer that designed your coach is compelled to take into consideration all factors, such as 7% and sometimes even greater slopes. With all this said, I believe that the manufacturer of the coach, and the manufacturer of the trailer toad should be posed with your questions for obvious reasons. The weakest link will always be there unless you know for sure what that may be, and make necessary adjustments to correct them, not saying that it can't be done, but there are too many factors to just guess. Only you will know for sure when you come across an unsafe situation, and can decide whether to go there or not. Enjoy your motorhome and enjoy all the beauty that you encounter on your many journeys.

My coach has a very nice enclosure around the parking brake with a spring loaded cover covering it, I have to lift the cover to engage or release the brake. School bus drivers in my state are required to pump the brakes to use up any stored air before leaving the driver seat, with no air the parking brake cannot be released.

OK, the base comes in a box with no legs attached, it can be mounted right on top of your slide box without attaching any legs at all. I do not have a concern for accessing the motor through a motor box as the bed does not cover the access inside my coach. Actually I was referring to the diesel coach motorbox, many diesel pushers have a box built over the diesel motor, you must lift the top to access the diesel motor in such a configuration. The motorized bed frame measures from the bottom of the base to the top of the foundation that the mattress rest's on is slightly less than 9 inches, I am using a 10 inch memory foam mattress, and with 10 inch legs, from floor to top of the bed is 29 inches, please remember this measurement is with the bed in the flat position, and of course when you raise the head of the bed this will increase as the head goes higher, and same for the foot end of the bed. The bed does decrease in length when raising both head and foot ends by close to 12 inches. I tried to attach pictures but could not attach more than 5.09 k, less than half the size of a postage stamp, therefore such a picture is useless. I did PM you a message and will be glad to send them to you otherwise, while I try to set up a photo bucket account. Hope my description is not too confusing, will try to clarify if needed. One other thought, mattresses can be bought ranging from 6 to 18 inches in thickness to help with height concerns. Just added shutterfly account "https://kaypsmith.shutterfly.com/pictures/20". Kay

I like the wasp spray idea, and be sure to post the NRA lifetime member sticker in very prominent locations, maybe even a tag next to the FMCA Egg.

Very good point Brett, reminds me of the old days when we installed a cut-out on the exhaust system for a needed short burst, LOL. Of course we already had headers.

Here is the L&P Q&A page: http://www.lpadjustablebeds.com/faq.asp My bed is not controlled independently, both sides raise and lower with only one control. The King size version will have two controls and you will need a split mattress. Yes the bed frame is heavier than just a mattress on top of the motor box, but it can be fastened down to the motor box. A simple rig can be used to lift the foot end and still provide motor access. If he has a memory foam mattress already and is comfortable sleeping on it, can be used on the adjustable bed. I did find special fitted sheets to use on the adjustable bed so we do not have to use suspenders to keep the sheet in place. There are several brands available, but I chose L&P because of support. The bed control box plugs into 110 volt outlet, but transforms to 36 volts, it comes with an auxiliary box that you install 4 nine volt batteries into which can be used in an emergency situation. Yes, I did get a chuckle out of "articulating", as I was thinking about moving right to left. Good luck with your search bobodell, if you have any questions that I might answer, feel free to PM anytime. Just looked, again, and there is a split queen now available, would need to change mattress to split. http://www.ebay.com/itm/LEGGETT-AND-PLATT-SIMPLICITY-SPLIT-QUEEN-ADJUSTABLE-BED-new-ADD-MEMORY-FOAM-/171822350239?hash=item280168ff9f:g:dzIAAOSwpdpVb17E Kay

I don't believe that I have ever seen an articulating bed before, sounds pretty uncomfortable. I do have an adjustable bed by Legget and Platt "the head and feet move up and down", in my motorhome with a memory foam mattress, queen size. I ordered it off e-bay, and have been very happy with the results. My wife has esophagus disorders and requires that she sleep with her upper body elevated. All sizes are available, but I don't know if the shorter RV size platform is available, but I would bet that it is.

If not heard of, Kroil oil, can be googled by that name, will creep better and last longer than any other that I have used.

Just don't let it freeze and burst, this will shorten the life expectancy.