kaypsmith

Welcome to the forum! There is no way to take the hardwire with you while traveling. An air card or traveling modem are both through cellular services. Although several services will provide you with a static IP address for enough money. I have set up many VPN's through cellular service and have not had any problems with it. Depending on the area that you connect, sometimes it is slower than other a dedicated hardwire.

Not in this area. Alabama

Ditto Doc, I use T Mobile smart phone, sometimes a little spotty, but with wifi calling I can call from almost anywhere as long as wifi is available.

What type cables from receiver to tv? How long are they Ross? Also, what model receiver?

There is not a lot more to learn about the readings if you understand what you are reading. Here is a PDF of the Victron manual, hope this will help. https://www.victronenergy.com/upload/documents/Manual-BMV-700-700H-702-712-EN-NL-FR-DE-ES-SE.pdf The top picture is showing the state of charge of your battery bank, that is where your batteries are right now. Voltage = 13.28, this is what the actual voltage is presently. Current = -4.80A, this means that you are receiving 4.80 less than you are putting into the batteries. Power = -64 watts, means that you are currently using 64 watts, 4.8X13.28 volts more than you are receiving. Consumed Ah - -106.3 Ah, means that since last full charge you have depleted 106.3 Amp hours from the storage, (batteries) Time remaining = 2d 18h, if you keep depleting and charging at the same rate as above. The bottom picture shows how much the solar panels are doing presently. Voltage = 48.74 volts, this what your solar is producing presently. Current 2.6 amps, remember the current above was -4.80 amps, so now the solar is producing 2.6 that added to 4.8 = 7.4 amps, this is what you would be pulling if there were no solar. Battery voltage = 13.29 with current 9.20 total being replaced State = Bulk, this means that your inverter/converter is in bulk mode to keep up with the load. Sure hope that this is helpful, good luck learning. Happy tales and trails.

To help clarify, this is an RV style absorption refrigerator, not a residential fridge. It is capable of being run on LP or 120 Volts AC, but requires 12 V DC to run the control board. When using 120 V AC, there is simply a heat element that boils the refrigerant instead of a flame. In the past there were also three way models of RV fridges, not this one, it is a two way LP/AC. The three way also included 12 V DC, which was a large drain on the battery bank, but did not need an inverter to run 12 volts, the second element was capable of heating the refrigerant with 12 V DC.

You don't seem to be getting many suggestions to the question. So here is one for you. Does the coolant drain plug, plug into the radiator as most of them do? Are you sure the plus is leaking? If it is in the radiator, the drain may have come unsoldered if the radiator is brass, or if plastic, the housing may be broken around the drain, Just a thought for places to look and other probabilities. Sorry, I didn't look more carefully at Bills suggestion, but great minds work in small circles. LOL🥵. Good luck with the repair!

Actually closer to 12 amps @ 12 DC, the most efficient inverter on the market requires at least 20% overhead just to run itself. An absorption uses a heating element very similar to a hot water heater to boil the refrigerant in the absence of a flame.

With an absorption type fridge that is capable of running on propane, why would you want to run this fridge on AC anyway? As Richard says LP is the most energy efficient.

You only have 2000 watt inverter, that's about 16 and 2/3 amps.

There is a lot of unanswered questions in your OP, is the house refrigerator inside the coach, or is it just on the same outlet that the rv is hooked up to. If inside the rv, did it come inside the rv, or is this a replacement fridge? What is the max amp draw of the fridge? How old is the coach, how old is the fridge?

Many residential fridges will trip a gfci circuit, mainly because the compressor uses a start capacitor. The capacitor causes a brief imbalance between hot and neutral because of the discharge of the capacitor to aid in the starting of the compressor. A gfci breaker will open with no more than 5 milliamps (that's 5/1000) of an amp, that is all that is allowed by law, many manufacturers set theirs to open a 4 mills to be less than the law requires. As mentioned above a gfci is not an overload protector, they are a shock protector, the human heart will quit working with 8 milliamps of electrical passing through it. The fridge should not be on a gfci, BUT BE SURE that it is on a grounded outlet.

Welcome to the forum! It will be helpful if you describe what year and model Tiffin Alegro home that you have, this way, someone with the same model can probably help by comparing their system with yours.

I use a Bose Sound Dock, great sound from one speaker cabinet, about 4 X 6 X 2. Battery charge last 6 to 8 hours, nearly everyone in the park asks to turn it up a little more so they can hear the game without their sound being on.

I would affix the code # just below or very near the code read area with a note of what it represents, for future reference.

I ordered a fridge fixer for my residential fridge. It works great, tried to find that link to repost here but was unable to find the original post, thanks campcop for posting.

He went with 275's all the way around including steer tires. No need to look for any difference for speed purposes since the the originals were 275's on the drive axel. The 275 versus 295 on steer tires may affect the handling characteristics some.

I received an invitation from Verizon to move to an inhome wireless Plan for $60.00 per month, touting unlimited internet for television and any other internet that one would like to use it for. And of course, since it is over the 4G cellular network, can be used anywhere that the cell signal can be accessed. Speeds in excess of over 100 mbps. Good to know that moving phones to 5G will open up 4G equipment for internet use.

St George Island Florida campground has four handicap camp sites available, all other 54 are dirt/sand with gravel, while the handicap sites have very large cement pads that the invalid can maneuver on very easily, if you don't have appropriate tags, you can't rent them. Just to name a few reasons.

Why would you have a handicap plate on a motorhome? I have seen handicap parking spaces near the restrooms in Tennessee for 18 wheeler rigs and motorhomes, they are marked with blue paint and have the signs that state for that use only.💙

In most coaches, the solenoid that you are speaking of, usually has two small wires, one positive and one negative. If yours is like this, trace the negative wire backwards, there is usually three places in which this wire is grounded, all three places require a ground, if any one of these three grounds do not make up, the solenoid will not activate, and thereby seem bad. Not all are like this, but it is worth taking a look at. These type solenoids are not frame grounded, meaning that the second wire requires a ground for the solenoid to actuate. If you do need to replace the solenoid, be sure to replace it with a continuous duty one at least as many or more amps than the origional.

I think that the newer trailhawks have electric steering, if so, they must have current applied while towing, or wobble will occur.

Did the shop drop the tank to replace the internal fuel pump? If yes, they may have removed the pickup tube for the genny. I think that in an earlier post you stated that while back blowing the fuel connection that you heard gas gurgling.

Are you sure that the coach is doing the oscillating? When did you start towing the Trailhawk? Check out this web post. https://rvlove.com/2019/11/10/jeep-death-wobble-update-and-fix/ The newer Jeeps have had issues with the death wobble, this may be your case.

I'm sure glad that I have air ride, smooth ride even with tires inflated to max. Or is there something wrong with my coach? LOL💤