kaypsmith

I prefer the M&G system over the others, they have a very good reputation and fairly easy to install.

Servpro uses a machine like Joe described, this may be cheaper than renting a machine, especially since you can drive the bus to them.

I have never seen a relay used in a 120 volt circuit for this purpose. The wire going to toe outlet may have a bad connection on the other end, I have seen that in some cases, most circuits like that are wired in series meaning that one recep is wired to another upstream. A pulse tone generator with a tone probe is a handy tool for checking those conditions, the generator is attached to the positive and the neutral then turn on the generator, the tone probe is then used to check other outlets for the tone, this will let you know where the breakdown is actually occurring. Many times the electrician that wired the circuitry may have used the push in rather than actually using the screw lugs, and sometimes the screw lugs actually loosen over time allowing the wire to not make good contact. Here is a link to a pretty inexpensive generator and probe https://www.ebay.com/itm/EXTECH-TG20-Tone-Generator-and-Probe-Kit/333256968423?epid=9027733050&hash=item4d97a9c8e7:g:QnsAAOSwT8FdHhM7

Can the current one be fiberglassed over? Welcome to the forum!

Can the wires be melted away, or possibly cut and spliced back together?

I have also seen the wedge solution used. You might take a piece of 2X4 cut the length of the accelerator and cut to the width of the pedal, then an a tablesaw cut longways in the shape of a wedge, leave it about 3/8" at the bottom and the full 1.5 inches at the top. Drill a couple of holes large enough to thread a couple of wire ties and use those to fasten to the pedal. Try this and if it works for you, then make it pretty or use as a pattern for a more permanent solution. I have also seen a simple stop placed across the pedal and about one third up from the bottom to be used as a heel stop.

I've seen Mexicans driving worse down our highways!

Good advice Joe!

With a diesel engine, the key switch activates a solenoid which opens the fuel valve, this is what allows the fuel to flow and in turn keeps the engine running. You stated that you were able to kill the engine by disconnecting the battery which leads me to believe that the solenoid is ok, leaving only the wiring or the keyswitch to be likely suspects. The puff of smoke leads me to believe that a wire has shorted possibly with another wire and has allowed the engine to continue to run. Did the engine re crank after turning it off? If not then I would suspect the ignition switch itself.

What browser are you using? IE 10 and Edge many times will do me the same way, try Google Chrome or Firefox to see if any better.

Another thing to think about is, what gauge wire at the home hookup, and how far away from the main home breaker source. As mentioned above be sure to check the home receptacle for loose connections.

Agreed, please do not wire those 12 volt batteries in series!

Here is a great deal on a Samsung 17.5, I use one similar to it and have no regrets. https://www.lowes.com/pd/samsung-17-5-cu-ft-counter-depth-french-door-refrigerator-with-ice-maker-stainless-steel/1000005992?cm_mmc=shp-_-c-_-prd-_-app-_-google-_-lia-_-118-_-refrigerators-_-1000005992-_-0&kpid&store_code=1531&k_clickID=go_1792806856_70815140818_346853480771_aud-299487635210:pla-308543703977_c_1012953&gclid=Cj0KCQjwjrvpBRC0ARIsAFrFuV_39qQWHrrsNZhwtELIBP6joR5sANsRd-RkhxBF_6d3wO3bB9ovSmYaAgwfEALw_wcB The change out is relatively simple, and these models will work just fine on an MSW, or PSW inverter.

They are not wired the same as the 6 volt batteries, just follow Brett's instructions, all negative to negative, and all positive to positive, with positive to inverter/charger/ house supply to battery 1, and negative to inverter/charger/ house supply to battery 4.

Try giving these people a call, http://centralfloridafleetservice.com/ Detroit series 60 is a very popular engine and many truckers use them, I rely on W.W. Williams, but did not find one in your area.

In case you do not have the Kenwood manual, here is a link. http://manual.kenwood.com/files/B64-2134-00.pdf

This is my feeling also, I only added the other in case someone has done some funny wiring, that clumsy mess of wiring surely was not done in a factory, if it was their electrician should have been fired. All breaker boxes and the generator in an RV is supposed to be treated just like a sub-panel in a commercial or wired home, only the ground and neutral are only supposed to be bonded at the campground breaker instead of the main panel within an ordinary structure. The junction box pictured appears to be the junction between the generator and ATS, the OP is probably correct about a possible short occurring in this location.

Looking at the photo of the breaker box, I notice that there are four square D breakers, 1 fifty amp (don't know if that is a 50 amp 240volt, or 50 amp 120 volt which is rare to see a 120 volt), which is probably the main breaker for that box, if it is 120 volt it is not the feed for the box, 2 20 amp, then a dual 15 not with square d logo, then another 15 with square d logo. The dual one looks to have been added at a later time, it probably was changed out with a single handle square d breaker at the time that it was put into the box. Since you have owned the coach, have you added an appliance that required another 15 amp circuit? Also do you know what that dual breaker is feeding within the confines of the coach? You may or may not be aware that the dual handle breaker feeds 15 amps for a total of thirty amps off of just one leg of a 120 volt circuit, which means that one leg is capable of pulling 35 amps, while the other is capable of pulling 50 amps off of the other leg. So if there has been some added on then that might explain why a sudden change in the way things are happening. Just something else to think about when pondering what has happened.

If all connections are good and tight, it still seems as though there is a problem with the ATS (automatic transfer switch), you may have had a problem that has caused the ATS's to go bad, or just coincidence. Is it possible to wire around the ATS with shore power to see what happens without it?

Be sure to check the model # of your unit, according to the pdf supplied by Rich, there were only 2 models listed that uses two 30 amp breakers, but there is four listed that uses one 30 amp and one 20 amp. As stated above, you may be pulling too much load for one of the breakers and or the generator itself. There is no comparison of this generator to 50 amp shore power. Please let us know which model # yours is.

Did the OP indicate whether the breaker was in 12V or 120V panel?

If you unplug the 12v feed wire from the igniter, does it still trip the breaker?

If the regular charger will not reach 16.2 volts and that is what it takes then just your regular charger will not work. What I am suggesting is that you can input from any source that will produce that amount or slightly more directly into the solar controller to take care of equalization. I have a 24 volt charger since the coach is 24 volts and that could take the place of solar panels in the absence of sunlight. You stated that your solar controller has the capability of equalization.

If you want to go to the trouble, you could actually put your regular charger instead of the solar panels as long as you do not overcurrent the solar charge controller, allowing equalization at any given time, even at night. FWIW!

GCWR is the needed stat (gross combined weight rating), yours is rated 42,000. GVWR is maximum (gross vehicle weight rating), again yours is listed at 32,000. And of course as Richard stated yours list 10,000 GVW, and 1,000 hitch weight. So assuming that the coach is not overloaded (32,000), then 10,000# for this coach. Also be sure to check the hitch itself for numbers because sometimes a previous owner may have fitted with an inadequate hitch.