kaypsmith

I am slowly replacing all mirrors inside with mirrored stainless steel. I use 20 gauge and keep watching Ebay for bargains, the one in my bathroom is 36"X48", cost $46.00, has been there four years now and nobody knows the difference unless I tell them. A nice wooden frame is easy to make and one can break up the look by using a picture or paneling for part and the steel for the other part. Barn door style has become a craze lately and the roller hardware is cheap and works much better than those original slides ever did. Oh yes, if you like the frameless look, most good sheet metal shops can brake the sides for a near perfect look. For what it may be worth, Lowes carries a large assortment parts for sliding doors, mirrors, etc., carry what needs replacing and ask for help.

If I understand correctly, this must be an older CG with only 30 AMP service, in other words there is no 50 AMP available in the entire park. If this is correct then there could be a problem with the entire CG, and it sounds as though it is. If nothing else available in this CG other than 30 amp, I would probably look for another CG nearby, as mentioned above it sounds as though the CG is inadequately wired and most likely underpowered throughout. If AC is a must, I would use my generator as much as possible until a move can be made.

I would make sure that all 12 volt high amperage connections are cleaned and properly installed including all ground to chassis connections, this also includes cleaning all battery connections. This exercise can't hurt anything and may actually cure some or all of the ailments.

The only thing that I see wrong with this part of the story is! What type oil was the previous owner using and how often did he change it? Even at only 70,000 miles I would never go to full synthetic oil if I had no indication that synthetic had been used exclusively in the past. I'm a firm believer in synthetic oil, I use it in all of my automobiles and would in the coach if it had been used in the past, but it wasn't. Synthetic oil has a tendancy to clean the engine thoroughly and can cause break down of parts if cleaned too quickly. If you start your new engine out with full synthetic, I will bet a six pack that it will last a much longer life.

When I push the COACH rocker switch to "STORE", then I hear the battery disconnect motor make a soft noise for a second and then the red LED light goes off, and the house lights and fan go off as well. When I push it back to "use", the red LED comes back on and the house lights, etc. work. Nothing happens when I press the CHASSIS rocker switch to "STORE": I do not hear the soft noise made by the disconnect motor and the CHASSIS red LED light always remains on. I think that you are misreading coach and chassis. COACH actually represents house batteries in this case, and CHASSIS represents the truck (for lack of a better word) batteries, at least here in Alabama it's that way. There may have been an issue at some point in time with the chassis disconnect and someone may have discontinued use of that switch, or the solenoid may have failed. Many times I have seen chassis disconnects bypassed because with age they become weak and will not pass enough current the crank the engine. Good luck with it and understanding it also. Kay Actually "USE" means just that, when on it is ready to use, "STORE" means that you are putting it away, ready for storage, this is to keep those 12 volt items from working or pulling those batteries down. If your solar cells are working and the unit is parked in sunlight, they should be able to keep your lights on for a pretty good length of time, 200 watts @ 12 V is about 16 amps, and depending on what type of lights you have. LED will last longest, fluorescent about mid, and Incandescent depending on wattage probably the shortage. I would recommend either getting someone, or learning how to remove the run condition of the generator from the ignition circuit of the chassis, I would certainly want to be able to run the generator without having to leave the ignition switch of the vehicle in the run position.

It sounds as though your battery disconnect switch on the house batteries is doing its job. Battery disconnect means just that, it disconnects the batteries for storage and thereby stops any parasitic drain. This switch is often referred to as the salesman switch. Now for the generator, it appears that it is wired to use the chassis batteries for starting and running, it may have came that way from the factory, or someone has rewired it to behave this way, hard to say without wiring schematics for your coach. The soft motor sound that you hear is probably a solenoid that engages when you turn the rocker switch to use and disengages when in store mode. Also the house lights and fans sound as though they are wired correctly because you stated that work in use position and do not work in the store position. Hope this is helpful for understanding your coach.

I have on many occasions ordered mirrored stainless steel very close to the size needed at a reasonable price, After drawing out an entire piece to scale taking them to a good shop that not only does plasma cuts, but also has a machine to water cut. This type stainless when cut and formed correctly usually looks better than the painted fiberglass anyway. 20 gauge is cheaper, and is easier to work than 16 and will serve almost as well. There is also a lot of bus conversion fiberglass parts available, worth googling to find what is available.

Thanks Herman, I shopped three different truck parts in B'ham. area and N.A.P.A with no luck, when I went to Lowes, I opened every drawer in their specialty drawer, not exactly the same but a very good work around. Of course my unit is now thirty one years old now, trying to catch up with me LOL.

If the rubber grommets need replacing, I had better luck finding a replacement at Lowes than at an auto supply.

Does the big relay have two small wires or only one? Maybe a better way to ask, does the relay have one or two small post? If two, are both wires attached?

If this is a standard air suspension system, and I assume that it is. The ride height is controlled by a ride height valve. There could be one or more issues, the first thing be sure to crank the engine and air up the system, all the while listening for air leaks and observe whether the system raises the front on a recranked scenario. Most coaches use a single ride height valve on the front bags, if yours is equipped this way. If the unit does not raise on the front this time, you will need to check the above mentioned valve. Now for the warning, you should be able to raise the front with your hydraulic levelers is your coach has them, if not other hydraulic jacks can be used if onboard levelers are not available but, DO NOT CRAWL UNDER THAT COACH WITHOUT ADEQUATE JACK STANDS OR ADEQUATE BLOCKING!!!!!!!!. Never ever crawl under a coach using air suspension or any other style jack without using jack stands or adequate blocking, I'm sure you already have seen how low the coach can go without safety devices, which can cause serious injury or DEATH. Now back to inspecting the ride height valve, look carefully and expect to see a shaft protruding from the valve with a small steel rod that connects to the chassis, this rod should be equipped with a means to be adjusted. Many times I have seen these either broken or has actually came loose at either end. If there no air leaks or no blockages in the air lines attaching to the main air supply or to the bags and the adjusting linkages are intact then you may have a bad valve. Be sure to check all of the mentioned places before replacing the valve. Most of these valves are easily replaced and pretty easy to find either a dealer for your coach, or almost any truck supply will have an assortment that will match. Good luck, and welcome to the forum.

The dash engine light should be connected to the ECM, and the sensors on the engine should be connected to the ECM. I suggest the ECM should hooked to by an ECM reader and pull the fault code from it, this should tell you what sensor that you should look for. Hopefully your tightening will serve you well.

How many receivers do you have? How many coax cables to the satellite dish? How does the receiver connect to the TV, through coax or do you use HDMI or AVI cables? These questions must be answered before you can get good answers. When you are connected to a cable network does the outside TV work on cable now?

I removed those ducts from my bus while doing the conversion, mine was nothing more than a thin sheet of micarta, with half inch spacers to keep the correct distance from the aluminum sheet metal that covers the studs and insulation. I used a custom made stainless steel channel to cover the piping through the floor and then used decorative venting next to the floor. You may be able to use some type of soft bristle brush with a long thin handle to scrub yours. Just a thought, by the way I thought there might have been some type of honeycomb between mine, but there wasn't, just empty space with those standoff's that I described.

I prefer the M&G system over the others, they have a very good reputation and fairly easy to install.

Servpro uses a machine like Joe described, this may be cheaper than renting a machine, especially since you can drive the bus to them.

I have never seen a relay used in a 120 volt circuit for this purpose. The wire going to toe outlet may have a bad connection on the other end, I have seen that in some cases, most circuits like that are wired in series meaning that one recep is wired to another upstream. A pulse tone generator with a tone probe is a handy tool for checking those conditions, the generator is attached to the positive and the neutral then turn on the generator, the tone probe is then used to check other outlets for the tone, this will let you know where the breakdown is actually occurring. Many times the electrician that wired the circuitry may have used the push in rather than actually using the screw lugs, and sometimes the screw lugs actually loosen over time allowing the wire to not make good contact. Here is a link to a pretty inexpensive generator and probe https://www.ebay.com/itm/EXTECH-TG20-Tone-Generator-and-Probe-Kit/333256968423?epid=9027733050&hash=item4d97a9c8e7:g:QnsAAOSwT8FdHhM7

Can the current one be fiberglassed over? Welcome to the forum!

Can the wires be melted away, or possibly cut and spliced back together?

I have also seen the wedge solution used. You might take a piece of 2X4 cut the length of the accelerator and cut to the width of the pedal, then an a tablesaw cut longways in the shape of a wedge, leave it about 3/8" at the bottom and the full 1.5 inches at the top. Drill a couple of holes large enough to thread a couple of wire ties and use those to fasten to the pedal. Try this and if it works for you, then make it pretty or use as a pattern for a more permanent solution. I have also seen a simple stop placed across the pedal and about one third up from the bottom to be used as a heel stop.

I've seen Mexicans driving worse down our highways!

Good advice Joe!

With a diesel engine, the key switch activates a solenoid which opens the fuel valve, this is what allows the fuel to flow and in turn keeps the engine running. You stated that you were able to kill the engine by disconnecting the battery which leads me to believe that the solenoid is ok, leaving only the wiring or the keyswitch to be likely suspects. The puff of smoke leads me to believe that a wire has shorted possibly with another wire and has allowed the engine to continue to run. Did the engine re crank after turning it off? If not then I would suspect the ignition switch itself.

What browser are you using? IE 10 and Edge many times will do me the same way, try Google Chrome or Firefox to see if any better.

Another thing to think about is, what gauge wire at the home hookup, and how far away from the main home breaker source. As mentioned above be sure to check the home receptacle for loose connections.