desertdeals69

My front TV is a Samsung LED 40 inch which 1.2 inches thick. I made a mount out of aluminum angle and hinged it from the top and used gas struts. I made a new cabinet which is about 10 inches thick with shelves for dvds. I've had it for 3 years and 20k miles. I've used flat screen TVs for 10 years with no problems.

I use the cell phone with a blue tooth headset. Didn't have to buy anything more.

I use a T250 amp fuse and 3/0 welding cable 6 feet long on a Xantrex 2000 watt.

I have seen up to 205 amps but I have six golf cart batteries.

If it was not on, the only thing turning is the pulley on the hub bearing. Is that what burned up? If it is it maybe a bad bearing or an alignment issue.

I think what you are looking for is the four nuts that hold the wheel cover on. You need to find out what manufacturer made them and get the nut from them. Might be Dicor or Wheel Master.

As I recall the RV museum in Ekhart had owners manuals. I believe you can make copies.

Since spark occurs when the points break, the gap is what controls the timing.

Back in the 70s we went thru the lower 48 states twice in 3 1/2 years.

I'm 72 and been rving since 1976 and have gone over 350k miles.

A lot of us have been using Golden Age passes for years to get into National parks.

I have installed daytime driving lights. They are LED and come on when the ignition is on and off when the headlights are on. They are extremely bright.

The great thing about rving is you can have fun no matter how little or big and how much it cost. Just get out and enjoy the country.

On a hard to fix generator simular to this one I discovered foreign debris in the tank that would plug up the fuel pickup and we couldn't get rid of it so I drilled a cross hole near the end at the bottom end of the tube so nothing could block it.

I would stick with a more popular engine because of parts and service availability.

Nice route. Done that trip both ways.

I would go with Roadmaster. Free service at the rallies.

Good luck Jim

I had that basic coach and modified the engine for more power. Several things happened. I ran out of gears-- no overdrive. The engine overheated because the radiator is too small. The inter cooler is too small. I finally changed the engine to a ISB 275 with a MD 3060 6 speed Allison and the radiator and cac. Solved most of my problems.

Depends on the rpm. Boost is measured in pounds per square inch, psi. The air at 6500 feet is pretty thin, My guess is somewhere around 15-20 psi. You are not going to get the power at elevation as at sea level. How does it run at lower altitudes?

Living in the desert I am well aware of temp differences between light and dark materials. I guess the question is what is worse, higher temp or more uv. Most pickup sprayed in bed coatings are black or some other dark coating.

What you experienced is somewhat normal. Each coach will very a little. The shift points are set in the computer which is spec by the coach builder. It is determined by H P, weight, tire size, gear ratio. Mine shifts into 6th at 56 mph. I have a 32 ft with a ISB 275 towing a 1/2 ton Silverado. The last time I fueled up after going 871 miles I got 10.93 mpg. Running slower in 5th could yield better mileage than faster in 6th gear. If you use a Road Relay or similar reader you can adjust your driving on the fly for maximum mileage.

Looks great. I enjoy projects like this.

Years ago I had installed an automotive type heater, plumbed into the engine coolent line and it had its own blower. It was placed in a cabinet and wasn't too big. Heated up the whole rear of the coach.

I have used electric heaters while traveling. I have run the inverter with 2 heaters set on low heat,1000 watts each and the cost is between 1/4 and 1/2 mpg. Be sure the heaters can't tip over and there is enough clearance around them.