desertdeals69

When the compressor fails there is still air in the tanks for a couple of stops. The park brake does not lock the rear brakes but rather applies them moderately. Try putting the park brake on while going at moderate speed with no one around and you will see how they work. You come to a gradual stop.

I assume that you have a inverter/charger with a 3 stage charger. I just have a switch wire between the 2 big posts on the jump solenoid and when its on both battery banks are charged. I've been doing it that way for some 30 years, without a problem. This is the way both banks are charged when you are running down the highway.

I have seen it done.

I was made aware of the cable I was just made aware of the cable you are talking about as I talked to the sales manager of TRC the other day at a RV trade show in San Diego. They also use that cable in their cord reels.

We stayed a Babler and it was close to many things that we were doing. Nice campground.

Thats why I change my own. I invested in professional tire tools, $120, and it takes me about 10 minutes for each tire to change. I used to use crowbars but it was awkward and took longer.

Quite simple. I tapped into the Kwikee step harness. All you need is ignition hot and a ground to make it go on and a hot when the headlights or parking lights come on.

Yes they come on with the ignition key and go off when the headights go on.

I installed daytime driving lights yesterday. They are real bright LEDs that work well in bright sunlight. Makes your coach visible from quite a distance.

I wouldn't have the patience to do what you do. I would have to figure out what the problem is and fix it.

I have run into several fulltimers that work rv trade shows and rallys. Most of them are vendors and they use the products they sell.

Is it possible that the wiring is reversed? Does the house still work with the chassis battery disconnected? If everything is wired OK it might be the solenoid stuck.

It does not have an alarm but it does give min max temp from memory.

Just installed thermometer with 3 remotes. The model is Temp Minder by the same people that make the Tire Minder. I now have a reading of the freezer, refrig, and outside as well as where the monitor is on the wall.

Check the wiring to each floor section. If there is 0 resistance on the ohms scale there is a break in the heat unit.

Thats why I live in the southwest. Good thing not everybody agrees with me because then it would get too crowded here!

I believe if it were that flimsy it woudn't hold together just driving down the road. There are lots of them being towed.

More than a wiring diagram you need an owners manual.

Check the amp draw on the furnace to see if in spec. Check battery voltage at the furnace and at the interior light circuit and at the battery. Any drop between the battery and furnace or lights probably means bad connection or too small of a wire.

The radio and cigarette lighter should probably be on different circuits. Radio about 5-7 amp fuse and cigarette lighter 15-20 amp.

I just remembered I saw dozens of wheels at Colaws last summer.

Check with Costco, they can special order Michelins. I just got 235/80r22.5 for about $400. They do not mount or balance but I do that myself so that was good for me.

Check with Alcoa and see if they still make a wheel that fits. Is there a mfg name stamped on the wheel?

You can wire through a storage compartment into the coach. Thats the way I did mine.

The same thing is true with rving. I carry spare parts, tools and at least one spare tire, 2 spares if on a long trip. We are in the motorhome for 6-8 months at a time.