rayin

Drain the water heater tank too, open all low-point drains, then open all faucets + shower. Then do as Richard advised; don't forget to attach the air hose to the city water inlet to blow out that line and the water pump. Begin closing faucets at closest to the water pump. Any remaining water should be in such a small quantity that freezing should not harm your plumbing. I really doubt water in your plumbing will freeze hard enough to cause any damage anyway. Those lows only occur for approx. 1-2 hrs. prior to daylight There will always be a small amount of water remaining in the fresh water tank and water heater, it is of no consequence; if it does freeze any ice will expand upward instead of outward due to the large surface area and shallow depth.

DW and I have improved health and are casually looking at a 2008 American Coach American Tradition 40Z on consignment at motor home specialist of Texas. Our trusty Winnebago Ultimate Freedom 40JD has became too small for us,, especially having one bathroom. We've only looked at that webpage so far, however when we are satisfied that is the floorplan we both want i'll get in contact with them via their website to begin a conversation. We both want a floorplan with 1½ baths, want_ heck we need them at our ages. I know I'll have fluids analysis for coolant, drive engine oil, Allison transmission fluid. Other than that it's kind of a crap shoot IMO.

Good for you! Keep at it, you'll get everything fixed. Usually a large heavy duty truck repair shop is my go - to repair place for chassis and drive-train work.

Mine did that last week. Following the Kwikee product service training manual diagnostic procedures, I determined electrically everything was working as designed. Further investigation revealed; The magnetic door switch had moved away from the magnet mounted on the screen door. I re-positioned the switch and the steps again worked as designed. The actual cause of the switch moving was; the mounting screws were into the carpeting but did not extend into the metal step-well. After checking on the outside of the step-well for clearance, I used longer self-tapping sheet metal screws. The lubricant recommended by Kwikee is a drying lube spray, which does not attract road dirt and grime as we drive.

If you know someone who has, and will loan you a pulse battery charger desulfator, use it on your batteries as directed. You have nothing to lose but time and a bit of AC electricity to run the pulse charger. I don't think it would be worthwhile to purchase one, but it's your choice. As Herman said, the plates may be warped by the excess heat from having no liquid to cool them, which makes a battery junk. This website might be informative: https://www.batterystuff.com/kb/articles/battery-articles/battery-basics.html and: https://batteryuniversity.com/

I think it is Monaco that states not to use micro-fiber cloths on their paint because it can leave tiny scratches.

I know I'm opening an old thread, however I must reply to this with the correct information. Dexter Axle E=Z lube hubs are quite different than "just a zerk fitting in the dust cap". That said, I never used my E-Z lube zerk fittings. Since Dexter says to remove, clean, and inspect bearings annually or every 12,000 miles I thought it a huge waste of time to use the zerk fittings. reference: https://www.dexteraxle.com/user_area/content_media/raw/e-z-lube-lit-239-00.pdf

The usual cause of this is incorrect battery connections. Did you take a picture of the battery wiring before changing batteries?

Simply remove the negative battery cables (including inverter) from the battery bank, no need to completely remove them unless you are concerned about theft.. If they are fully-charged they will still be 60% next spring. They will not freeze.

Almost any large HDT repair shop has alignment equipment. When you make an appt. be sure to get a total alignment, this includes checking and if necessary correcting thrust angle. When I had our MH aligned the thrust angle was out by 3/4". After the alignment it drives vastly different, more like steering my Silverado pickup now.

I have flow-through pressure monitors on all tires, the inner duals have a monitor then a valve cap extension on the monitor instead of an ordinary metal valve cap. I've never had a leak from either of those for the past 8 years. I do carry a 6" extension JIC, but I never leave it installed, it's used, removed and returned to tool box.

Here is how to winterize the water solenoid for an RV absorption ice maker, do not pump RV antifreeze into the ice maker tray. Some folks ask about the water in the cube tray freezing; yes it will freeze, that' what an ice maker does - every cycle. Turn off water supply to ice maker solenoid, remove water supply line from solenoid, remove line to ice maker from bottom of solenoid and allow to drain from that line and water solenoid. If you don't have a valve to shut off water supply, you must plug the end of the line prior to running your pump. If you don't plan to drive a diesel it should not be started unless driven , as Carl stated. A gas engine may gum up during long term storage if Stabil or gas preservative is not added, then run the genset for at least 15 minutes to get treated gas into the genset carb.

Stray current has been known to greatly accelerate anode erosion.

Was that the water heater drain plug W/anode?

HWH states all jacks should be stored and slide rooms retracted to check oil level, it should be at the max level to prevent sloshing oil from triggering the low level alarm. BTW, DO NOT use hydraulic jack oil, HWH says to use their oil or Dextron ATF. However, use what your owners manual says, it is the final authority. My owners manual says to use type A ATF- for example.

I tow a Chevy Silverado pickup. I bought the Blue Ox tow bar and base-plate and complete wiring installed from a Blue Ox dealer for $3,100 in 2013. I cannot imagine inflation has increased that much. IMO you should find a different shop, preferable an independent owner vs a nation-wide chain. IMO Jim is right about checking with U-Haul.

My HWH slide mechanism is much older than yours, my owners manual says no lubrication necessary. It has Nylon wear/guide blocks instead.

This was at the Shipshewanna flea market. Made in Canada.

Nope, that guy's been tailgating me for miles.

Ask questions before purchasing from the program; that webpage used to have a statement advising to check pricing before buying, as sometimes a tire dealer could sell for less than the program costs.

Since we've already completely hyjacked HMCSW's thread; our MH requires 2½ G including the drains. Sorry I took so long responding, we were at an Indiana state recreation area (Raccoon lake CG)for 5 days and they don't have WiFi or reliable (1 bar) cell service there. Ross come on down to Bloomington Menards to get the $2.69/G price.

Yes.

Speaking of winterizing; today I bought a case of RV antifreeze (-50°F) for $2.69/G.

Winegard antenna parts: https://www.amazon.com/winegard-antenna-parts/s?k=winegard+antenna+parts

It's had to believe, however, your Winegard bat-wing antenna receives signals from further away than any other OTA antenna according to this website. https://www.rvweb.net/best-tv-antenna-for-rv-reviewed/ The King 8300 Jack is the best omni-directional antenna on that website, but it must still be cranked up for use. My DW is 5'1", I bought a folding step-stool for her to reach the ceiling cabinets and the antenna crank and direction disk. This reminds me I haven't lubed my antenna moving parts since this pandemic shut things down. I use a pure silicone spray, and can reach my roof antenna from a ladder to spray the gearing. At 78 my DW has also nixed me on the MH roof. Have you a young neighbor you might ask to lube your antenna gearing?