rayin

There should be a small removable cover over the thermostats. Often it is black, others are the same metal color as the exterior. I don't know of any non-replaceable thermostats on a water heater of any type.However, if you are adding a electric heating element, there may not be a place for that thermostat. The over-temperature/over-pressure relief valve should open when water temperature is too high. It may require replacement also. It i looks and acts exactly like the one on your home water heater. It you cannot get to the actual tank to attach the thermostat, how about the flange the relief valve screws into? Hopefully the jacket has an opening large enough to stick the 'stat into, Then hold it in place with a piece of insulation.

Thank you for sharing that information. I knew my SCS/Frigette system took, 3.8# of R134, but had no clue to the details. BTW., that reminds me of a comment a guy made about 10 years ago on a different forum. He said to insulate the refrigerant line to the evaporator for better cooling_. 😆 That brought to mind a Confucius saying, " it is better to remain silent and be thought a fool, than speak and remove all doubt."

Right! If the receptacle is not wired into the inverter circuit, the ice maker will not work when the fridge is on LP, as it is 120VAC only.

I'm no electrician,but I'd think running a MSW inverter in-line with an autoformer to produce adequate AC voltage might be difficult. As Kaypsmith said, the first step is to verify accurate inverter output voltage.

It's all about sales, got it.

The accepted usable AC voltage in the U.S.A. is 120VAC, plus or minus 10%. Outside those parameters inductive motors are slowly damaged to the point of failure. This accumulative damage is somewhat like you bruising your arm repeatedly until it gets so bad the arm is unusable.That may be a poor analogy, but it's the best I can think of right now.

I've read good reports from users of those. To me it is incomprehensible Ford is ignorant of this issue and has failed to make corrections.

Me too, I cannot visualize what is broken and where. It sounds like a plastic welder will be required.

Good point about width,I forgot. This includes determining if his present rims are wide enough for the increased tire width.

The video Kaysmith posted is not a Norcold 12xx series. The 12xx has a plastic bushing directly in the door bottom instead of being outside the door. When the plastic door frame breaks, there are two choices buy new or have the plastic welded back in position. If the actual door is not broken, only the hinge, Amazon has hinge repair parts: https://www.amazon.com/Norcold-625129-Door-Repair-Models/dp/B004RCP93U?SubscriptionId=AKIAILSHYYTFIVPWUY6Q&tag=duckduckgo-ffnt-20&linkCode=xm2&camp=2025&creative=165953&creativeASIN=B004RCP93U The steel hinge pin is not included. FWIW, Norcold 12xx parts list. My Norcold 1200LRIM is now 20 years old, if anything expensive breaks I will buy a new Norcold 1200LRIM. I figure it''s life cycle is complete.

Actually, I have 1" thick plywood in 12" squares with 1/2" holes in opposing corners for jack pads, and use my awning rod to position them. Snaps pads are in my future, at 77 getting up and down is not pleasant.

First things first; Have a total alignment performed on your MH, almost any HDT repair shop has the alignment equipment. This includes checking and correcting the thrust angle. FWIW, my thrust angle was out by 3/4", after the total alignment our MH drives very easily. At 10,000 miles you should not have any worn parts needing replacement. Something that affects steering is, the roads you normally drive have "ruts" in them from traffic. Radial tires tend to follow those ruts, low air pressure can increase that phenomenon. reference: https://www.tirerack.com/tires/tiretech/techpage.jsp?techid=47 Edit: Belatedly, Welcome to the forums!

This Sunday it expected to be 58°F, today_ 34°. Worst part, my cousin keep texting me the weather in Ft. Myers Beach, and I'm 🥶

Check out switching to 255/70R22.5 tires They are very close to your tire size, and readily available from different tire mfgrs., virtually all will be less expensive than Michelin, and IMO perform just as well. When I joined FMCA, their tire webpage had a statement to check with Michelin dealers before using their discounting, as some dealers would sell for less without using the program.

Welcome! I cannot help with locating a repair shop. I can offer some advice about the ABS light staying on; this is usually due road dirt,grease,etc. sticking in the tone rings slots on each wheel and causing a fault light. My solution was to use my pressure washer from the opposite side and vigorously spray the backside of the wheels of the other side of the MH. A word of caution, the brakes will be wet afterwards, drive with care! If this doesn't work, you have lost nothing but time and a tiny bit higher water bill. BTW, the ABS light does not affect braking ability, they just do not have the anti-lock feature.

Go back and re-read BandM's initial statement. I read it to say, " Current MICHELIN is no longer available", how do you intrepret his statement?

To make the ° symbol, hold down the inner ALT key while pressing 2 4 8 on the keypad on right side of keyboard. The complete listing of W10 alternate signs is found at: https://tools.oratory.com/altcodes.html We have bright sunshine mild North breeze at 32°F, but It's 76° in front of this monitor.

BandM, Check out the Sailun 295/75R22.5 in either 14 or 16 ply. This tire is 1/10" taller, and 8/10" wider than that Michelin 275/80R22.5. I think the cost is very reasonable. As to locating a nearby dealer, usually if the dealer carries Cooper tires they also carry Sailun truck tires(which btw are made in Vietnam-not China) I bought a set after walking around at truck stops and observing HDT steer tires. I run 275/70R22.5, LR H. My final bill was $1,280 in 2017 for all 6, mounted, balances, installed, including taxes. During the past 2 years these tires have performed flawlessly, and I think ride better than the old Goodyears I removed.

Try this link Wayne, my security settings won't allow me to view it on this machine, so hope it works. https://www.wintertexantimes.com/News/2009-2-26/Article2.htm This utube video/slideshow explains: here is the preview of that article though:" Owner Fred Renk is planning another heart-stopping bullfight as Santa Maria Bullring stages its final bullfight of the Winter Texan season on Feb. 22. At the last bullfight, on Feb. 8, the excitement began even before the event started when the first bull tried to climb out of the chute and knocked the makeshift roof off on one of his many ... " The Santa Maria Bullring is on facebook:https://www.facebook.com/pages/Santa-María-Bullring/186213611413740 This is my wife with the guest matador from Mexico City:

X3 If that is not desirable to fagnami, how about https://rvsnappad.com/

I took my wife to witness this event while we spent the 2008 winter in Donna, TX. She still talks about it today. Full story here: https://www.wsj.com/articles/texas-only-home-for-matadors-is-on-brink-of-closing-11579689001 If anyone has never attended a bullfight, this may be your last chance in Texas.

DW has a Hank Williams 33 1/3 album titled "Mr. and Mrs. Hank Williams" singing duets. I haven't copied it onto a CD yet though, nor another album titled "the four Hanks" Hank Williams, Hank Snow, Hank Locklin, Hank Thompson. Edit, DW won't allow me to play my Red Sovine album while driving the MH, she's afraid I'll get "into the moment" as she says.

mike, docj's comments got me to thinking. Winnebago has all their schematics and diagrams for each model MH online. Hopefully your MH mfgr. does too. There are multiple check valves in both the brake and suspension air systems. Perhaps there are one or more leaking backwards. My MH has developed the same hidden air pressure loss, and I am ignorant of how to find a leaking check valve; I too have spent several hours with a spray bottle filled with children's bubble soap underneath my MH and only discovered two very slow air leaks, like one- three bubbles a minute.

It would be a lot of heat inside, it would melt the finish right off the cabinetry. As to ventilation, I purposely left the metal siding ridges open at the bottom and at the top of the walls. I was more interested in natural convection during our hot muggy summer months than retaining heat in winter. DW says she may move my bed out there since I spend so many days there in warm weather. I have more work on the MH in the near future. I ordered a new WW motor and crank arm today. My research to find the right motor revealed it is a universal 55Nm wiper motor used by many bus and MH builders. Wiperparts.com is my source(recommended by Winnebago) for motor and crank arm, I did have an email extended conversation to insure I would order the correct crank arm.