rayin

Richard, virtually all such tables are all right here: http://www.rvtiresafety.net/2015/04/links-to-load-inflation-tables.html

That is my thinking, and the reason I posted the link was to obtain others thinking about this product. The possibility of a 300# low to high swing from actual weight is ludicrous for MH owners. One device off by 300# high, and the opposite side off by 300# low (which is within their published accuracy limit) could fool a 4-corner weight procedure.

I agree, avoid using silicone caulk/sealant. Sure many RV mfgrs use it at the factory, they do not have to deal with the after-effects 5 -20 years later. It is the cheapest in price of all sealants/caulk for a good reason. Spend an additional $3-7 a tube and buy the best. I'm lazy, I'd rather to do the work required to get results that may outlast me. Remember the old addage, "do it right the first time".

I forgot to phone Dan at FMCA HQ today, I'll call Monday and ask specific questions; he might tell me to call SafeRide for details, but it IS an FMCA pdf according to the web address.

A federal fishing license has been discussed for many years, every time individual states protest it would be an invasion of state's rights, which is contrary to the constitution. I would enjoy one if it ever happens. Went brook trout fishing in the Beartooth mountains of WY, the 1984 non-resident 5 or 7 day(I forget which) was I think, $35.

Richard the description states " One sensor is required per height control valve on each axle group"; that may not work on many MH chassis as Spartan MM chassis usually has 1 valve for rear axle, 2 valves for front. I'm not going to buy that, as being accurate to within 300#(would that be a total 600# variation? ) is_IMO useless for a MH application.

The last page of this FMCA/ Saferide ERS document states some things I assumed were covered items, however it infers they may not be covered: https://www.fmca.com/pdfs/roadside/roadside_checklist.pdf " Be sure to ask if there are additional charges for:• Simply coming out to your RV•Mileage costs, and if so, where do they begin and end•Disconnecting the driveshaft or removing the half shafts•Hourly charges for services rendered on site". I wonder if the Escapees plan reads the same, as it is $99/yr?

This product states "Accurate to within 300 lbs or better when properly calibrated." Now just how useful does the mfgr think this will be???; especially for the RV industry? https://www.amazon.com/AppWeigh-Weig...532056&sr=8-24

Then for active and former military, SMARTrving.org conducts tours.

The tread width does not determine dual tire spacing, it's the section width of the tires when installed on the vehicle: https://www.pavementinteractive.org/reference-desk/design/design-parameters/additional-tire-information/Rim width has a great deal to do with tire sidewall bulge too. Back years ago, before computers, the rule was a minimum of 1.5" between sidewalls, measured on the bottom when installed on the truck.

However, IMO, the only excuse for violence in civilian life is to protect human life or your property. Lack of self-control is not at excuse.

That's why the website has an ignore button, you never see that individuals posts. Overall it is a very informative website IMO, just like most free forums the larger/more members it gets the harder it is to control, look at rv.net.

Now that's just plain funny; bad day perhaps?

The HWH manual recommends either be connected to shore power or have the genset or engine running. Voltage and amperes are quite important to proper operation. I bookmarked that webpage on all my internet devices, it answers practically every question a MH owner could ask. When I extend my jacks with engine running, I notice the interior lights dim for a split-second when first engaging the switch. An aside, if you click the link in item 116, you open their technical sections page, which contains a wealth of information. JIC, I have a contact at HWH if the problems get ugly.

Mine does that once in a while. Every time, the Xantrex inverter remote panel reads "lost neutral". I go unplug the 20A extension cord, re-plug, go back, clear the inverter fault and power is restored. FWIW we are on REMC and do not have reliable service, the house lights blink once in a while, haven't confirmed any connection to the coach losing neutral fault though. This week I plan to replace both ends of the extension cord, which is a 75ft, 10/3; fed from our house main panel. If I'm out there working inside the coach I start the genset if I need air conditioning, LP furnaces if heat is needed.

Somehow I stopped getting an email with replies notifications, sorry. The inner dual tire sensor is screwed directly onto the OEM metal valve stem, which is only 3" long.I install/remove them by slipping my hand between the tires, the stems must be on the bottom though. We took a short trip 3 weeks ago, the temperatures were at their normal readings.

I"ve gotta get a bottle of that! Thanks for the review, and tip.

"In life it is important to know when to stop arguing with people, and simply let them be wrong", from yourpositiveoasis.com ☮️ Ken, as I see it, most of the problems are because someone failed to read and follow their website rules. Since it is a free website, sometimes it appears the moderators somewhat have a stiff neck, but it IMO is necessary to keep a resemblance of order and decorum. I seldom see such problems on FMCA forums, IMO due to the average age being higher than other RVing forums. Once I received a warning about linking to a specific topic in a different RVing website that contained the exact information they were seeking; I PM'ed that moderator and pointed him to the irv2 rule number; warning was reversed. I joined irv2.com in 2001, still learn something with every log-on.

Yep, a sad statement of the times. IMO, as the world population increases, so will indifference to others. Elkhartjim what was the Heidi episode?

Someone decides the game must go on-regardless of the weather: https://www.accuweather.com/en/weather-news/dallas-tv-station-issues-apology-for-delaying-tornado-warning-during-cowboys-game/606418

Cummins says each engine has different specs. I emailed and was told they could not help me without my engine serial #, I obtained that and replied back. I was then told the normal coolant temperature specs for MY ISC was 180° up to 212°F, beyond that is overheating..

I got an email last week, Yahoo is shutting down some of their groups features.https://help.yahoo.com/kb/groups/SLN31010.html

I'm in Indiana, however I applaud your efforts and involvement to support TX state parks maintenance and upgrading!

Welcome to the FMCA discussion forums! My first step would be to insure there are no tripped breakers or blown fuses-anywhere. If those are all good, my next step would be to double check that both inverter and charger functions are enabled. If both of those are enabled, then things begin to get above my pay-grade. Soon more knowledgeable members will see your thread topic and step-in with their expertise and offer more advice. When you get time, it would be a good idea to click on your name in top right corner of this page, then go to your profile settings and fill-in the details of your RV. Look at the profiles at the bottom of our posts to get an idea of what you want to include. This helps other members offer suggestions and advice by simply reading what make, model, and type of RV you are talking about.

That red dye stains the inside of the fuel tank and fuel lines, takes a loooong time for it to rinse out with OTR fuel. Here in Indiana, for a year or so after this red dye implementation, every time I went to a farm auction I would notice a couple of men roaming the parking areas with a handful of flexible rods, dipsticking trucks fuel tanks. That faded away after a few years, now I never see that.