elkhartjim

I shouldn't be surprised at anything but I'm still amazed the lack of understanding some rv owners use. I noticed on both the issues of tow bar problems that the toad was slowly backing away or it took off across a field. Hmmm...no break away system makes me wonder if they even have brakes on their toad. Yes, all pieces of mechanical equipment need maintenance. If he went 20,000 miles I consider that abusing the equipment. At minimum I clean and lubricate and re-torque the bolts on my towbar every year. Of course I saw a Southwind gasser towing a CRV yesterday without a drop hitch. The base plate on the toad must have been at least 18" below the receiver hitch on the motorhome. The towbar was at a 45 degree angle. That towbar may fail and it will be the manufacturers fault I'm sure..in the mind of the owner.

I'm curious why its still on their website and why/how at least 8 different vendors are offering it for sale today. If Blue Ox stopped manufacturing/selling it 6 or 7 years ago they must have had one heck of an inventory for them to be so readily available. Amazon has 17 in stock with more on the way as of two minutes ago.

Its still on their website. http://blueox.com/tow-bars/bx4325-aladdin/

It removes the wax, Wayne.

It has to be in gear (any forward gear) to prevent it from spinning when the oil pump isn't pumping. Of course the transfer case has to be in neutral. Hope this helps.

This is not what my manual says for my 2005 Wrangler or my 2014 Wrangler, both automatic. Transfer case in neutral and transmission in Park. The key must be left in the unlocked position on the 2005 but the key is off on the 2014.

Golf Cart Batteries purchased from Sams three years ago for less than $100 each. Not to open a can of worms but I added approx. 3 oz of mineral oil to each cell which has eliminated all corosion and I've only needed to add water once. My motorhome is stored at home plugged in to 50 amp service with reefer and inverter always on. I have the Samsung RF18, 3 door reefer.

I copied this word for word from another forum, hopefully it will be beneficial. "This error means that the control board is not getting communication from the eyebrow board, which is the display board at the top. On the back of the fridge you will find the main fridge control board, which is protected by a black plastic cover. Remove this cover and you should see the board. Approximately in the center of the circuit board, you will see a terminal marked D+, which should have a wire coming out of it. This is the power wire to the eyebrow board. If this wire is even a little loose, or the wire is loose in the connector, you could easily get this error. Please check that connector to make sure it is tight on the board and the wire is tight in the connector. To the left of this connector, on the left edge of the board at the top, is the communications harness going to the eyebrow board. Also check this connector to make sure it is secure on the board. If this still doesn't solve your problem, go back inside the coach and carefully remove the top panel where the display and control panel is. Inspect the connectors coming into the eyebrow board. If they are secure and undamaged, you will probably have to replace the eyebrow board. However, before doing this, it is probably a good idea to have the main board tested, as that could also be the problem. If you remove the main control board at the back of the fridge, you can take that to your local RV service center where they will be able to test it for you. If the main board fails, you need to replace it. If it passes, and you have thoroughly checked the connections, you should replace the eyebrow board. Also, just as a sanity check, test the voltage coming into the fridge to make sure it is close to 12V. Also check the fuses on the board to make sure they are okay."

I don't know the brand of the residential refer you have but my Samsung will operate off the inverter with 4 batteries for as long as 14 hours when we are just overnighting. It, plus the tv, LED lights, water pump, etc has not dropped the batteries below 80%. If you decide to change out the refer, I would look for an energy star rated refer rather than an absorption type.

This link will give you some information on overnighting in Walmart. Please do not extend your jacks when parking at Walmart. http://www.walmartatlas.com/rv-parking-at-walmart/

The Atwood tank is aluminum and the reason the anode rod isn't needed. Why did you decide to install the anode rod? Inquiring mind!

Bill, you should have stopped at Krogers in Willis - $1.89. It is a pain in the back side with the $100 cut-off.

It's the Monument Inn that Herman is thinking about. Its on the south side of Battleground Rd almost adjacent to the ferry landing.

I used this company with excellent service. The LED's have been installed for almost a year with no problems. http://www.m4products.com/

I always add the additive to the tank prior to filling so it will mix when fueling. I'm not familiar with the fuel additive the parts man is recommending but I have used both products that have been recommended by Brett and Bill. I use the Pilot/Flying J charge card that provides a discount from the cash price, automatic pump start and no pump shut off.

I also am a user and great advocate of the M & G Engineering braking system. I've used it on a Chevrolet Malibu and currently use it on a 2005 Jeep Wrangler and a 2014 Jeep Wrangler. http://m-gengineering.com/

This is a known problem. There is a lengthy discussion over on the iRV2.com forum where they are gathering facts to make their case to GM.

I would be cautious broadcasting the fact you're going the LLC route. Several states are actively pursuing the lose of tax dollars and from what I've heard, the fines, interest and penalties will make the amount saved in sales tax insignificant. I assume you've checked with your state and meet their requirements for avoiding (or evading) paying their sales tax. Since you still own real property (your home/homestead) in you resident state, thats a huge red flag. Good luck, I would probably hate to check my mailbox afraid of that bill that may show up any day.

Essex Credit is good resource for financing. 3.73% up to 84 months. 3.85% up to 120 months. 4.12% up to 240 months Insurance costs are based on value, deductible, coverage desired, where and how its stored. I've used Hartford for five years with one $10,000 claim. The premium has increased less than a hundred dollars in those five years. As far as I know, you can't just pick a state to register the motorhome. It has to be you domicile at the time of purchase. I hope this helps.

I Googled "motorhome rentals Richmond VA" and it listed several places. Give that a try.

I suggest calling the Freightliner 24/7 help desk. Have your VIN number. 1-800-FTL-HELP

Even though this is a year old thread, I think it warrants a word of caution. It appears to me this company is a web based manufacturer/seller with no store front. You buy it sight unseen and take your chances. They have a 90 night warranty but the buyer is responsible for return shipping costs and it states they will provide you with a return shipping address should you want to return it. The buyer also pays for return shipping charges even if the manufacturer deems it is a warranty issue. So if you use the OP $400 quote for freight you could be paying $800 for a mattress that cost that or less and could possibly get the mattress back that you thought was bad. I can't imagine the shipping charges for a king size mattress from CA to NC with what shipping costs are today. As always, buyer beware.

Do you have a tow bar? If so, which manufacturer?

I think its just like selling a house, its about the first impression curb appeal so I would certainly have the outside looking as good as possible.

I would change based on number two and then you don't need to worry about number one. Good example, Brett.