hermanmullins

Brett, Thanks I have printed both and will review them tonight. Herman

Tom, we are talking about a retired Marine. Do they have these forms that read real slow?

Brett, How about a little lesson on the DEF for diesel engines. I for one don't know much about this new technology. I am sure there other in the same boat as myself. Thanks in advance.

What is that great quote about Great Minds. All good ideas. Semper Fi, Hu Raw, and Anchors Away to ALL.

Just carry a lot of hanging cloths so that they can't sway back and forth. I have traveled for many years (by car) in my job. My cloths rod in the back of my SUV let my cloths slide back and forth both blocking my rear view and droping them. I have done several things: I have put rubber rings on the rod in several places so the hangers can more very little. I have put rubber bands on the rod for the same purpose. I have seen plastic tubes that are ribbed that go over the rod for the purpose of stopping the hangers from sliding. A bungee cord pulled tight over the rod might hold the hangers from jumping off also. Good luck and keep your clothes on (the rod).

Great explanation on the wiring. Brett, if this member is having both the house and the coach batteries going dead, it seems there has to be some sort of drag on them and his inverter is not keeping up or not working. If there is something dragging down both batteries down he might also have a bad isolator. The only thing on should be the radio/clock. When we had a drag on the battery (years ago) we would pull the fuse for the radio & clock. Remove the positive cable and jump between the post & cable. If it shows voltage, begin to remove fuses one at a time until the voltage drops to zero. Check what that fuse powers and correct the problem. I like the idea of checking to voltage without power to the coach and then with power to see if the inverter is charging.

thomasalter, Do you have a smart wheel? (cruse control/wiper and so forth on your steering wheel). If so check out your controller in your electrical service area. I had a similar problem and found burnt wires going to the box. I got my replacement from the mfg. of the Smart Wheel. Since the two leads that were burnt were power in leads I put inline fuses on each. I found mine while looking for a bad relay and noticed the burnt connection. Replaced controller added the fuses and now 2 years later no problem. www.vipwheels.com Click on: "Tech Support". Look at the SM 209 or SM 210 unit. The J-12 plug was the one that was burnt. Hope this helps.

Woodlodge, Welcome to the forum. Many folks use a curtain behind the driver when using the dash ac to keep cool. Of course if you have passengers you might need additional cooling (gen and roof ac). I feel that our comfort overrides the MPG. You will love Yellowstone!!

Understood. I looked up VW Beetles from 1970 thru 2008 with Blue Ox, and although it is not listed as towable they do make base plates for the Beetle. I feel as you do that VW does not want the liability. But like everyone I have seen many being towed, to the beach, the deer lease and Rallies. Keep up your good work.

Welcome to the Forum. There should be no problem pulling any standard shift transmission auto. 1) Check the FMCA dingy towing guides. There, you can find your year auto and look for your make. 2) Check the Web for Tow Bars and Base plates. 3) Have it installed buy someone that is familer with tow bars and RV's. 4) Then Hook UP and go RVing. Happy Traveling tsmithers

One other factor is rear axles. Single or double. Will tag axle rise to help turning. I look forward to a lot of the answers to this question. Regards

Glad to be of help. I have a small lower lobe in my heart for Okies, my wife is from Afton, OK. However I have had her down in TEXAS for more then 46 years +.

Williamhorn, I had a 1992 Windsor and had problems with my fan. It was not a fuse, bad switch or fan it was a loose ground connection on the fan. Under your dash panel in front of the passengers seat there is a panel. If I remember right there are several screws that hold the panel up under the right side of the dash just inside the door. After you remove the panel feel up to the fan motor. there is a ground lug where the fan connects to the housing. Check for a loose connector. After replacing the ground several times I got pliers and put a little pressure on the connector where it would stay on the lug. If you need more help send me a message with a number I can reach you and I will be glad to help you. It is a little hard to describe in writing but easy in words.

By the way Wayne, HAPPY BIRTHDAY and Semper Fi.

If you are in the Texas area you might call North Texas RV in Denton, TX. Ken has a paint booth that can accommodate any size RV and they do very good work.

There is a place in Dallas, "Drive Shaft Knig", that will make you a disconnect while you wait. If you don't have any better luck with Remco, Google "Drive Shaft King Dallas, TX". If you have a steel drive shaft they will modify your shaft, but if you have an aluminum shaft they will make you a new drive shaft. I know, an OKIE coming to TEXAS for help, But what the hay, if you don't tell, I wont tell.

I have the Blue Ox Tow Bar and base plates on my Dynasty & GMC Yukon. I Have the M & G Engineering Brake system. It works on your air brakes. Check out M & G at http://www.m-gengineering.com/ Great system. New unit has life time warranty, Remfg. has 5 yr. warranty.

Bret, Don & Herman are all wondering if you got the coach checked out and found the vibration?

Does the F450 have twin I beams? If so air bags in the front coils will help. There is some one looking for RV parks in Deming, NM. Check on one of those sites, go to Deming and visit Steer Safe. The Factory is there and you can have them installed by the best. I had mine installed by the camping store where I bought them. I saw no difference. When in Deming I went to the factory. They redid the Steer Safe and then I noticed quite a difference. Good luck, stay safe and keep it between the lines.

Lagoons RV Resort in Rockport. (www.lagoonsrv.com) Don't miss the Fulton Mansion. Great Food all around. Check out the lunch at the BIG FISHERMAN. Prices you wont find anywhere. Have fun on our beautilful coast.

I have never had the all electric problem. Here are just some of my thought when I read your post. You would need a large group of 6 volt Batteries(4+) Large Inverters.I have seen coaches with 2 4K inverters. Auto start Gen. is an option when buying your new coach. Quite time when other coaches are close by. Always have full fuel tanks when camping. A full power load can cause the Gen to burn 1+ gal/hr of fuel. How about some others out there. Any ideas?

Vibrations: 1) If you feel a vibration in your steering wheel the cause is coming from the front end. ie, Balance, Shocks, Bent Rim, etc. 2) If you feel a vibration in your seat the cause is coming from the rear end. ie, Balance, Shocks, Bent Rims, Drive Line, etc. When you have the tires rebalanced that is when the bent rims could be checked. Drive line needs a good technician. Good luck, However if you can't solve your problem just think how much fuel you will stay by driving under 55.

Diodes on three different TOADS. Never one problem. Easy to install. Go for it.

I had to replace both chassis batteries that were less then 1 year old. At the same time, I replaced all four of my six-volt batteries. At this time I had a bright idea. I got BRASS flat washers and BRASS wing nuts. I took all connections off and cleaned the lugs with a "Flap Wheel" in my drill (I made sure there was no corrosion anywhere). I put on a Brass Flat Washer, then the cleaned Lug, then another Brass Flat Washer and then the Brass Wing nut on. I did this on all battery connections. I then sprayed the terminals with some protected I got at the autoparts store. Since that time (2 years ago) I have not had to put in any water in any of the batteries and they stay fully charged. I just wanted to pass this on to anyone that might be interested. (Please don't hate me if I missed spelled some words.)

Welcome to the Forum. Vic, take your broken hinge to a good welder and have him TIG weld(Heli-Arc) the hinge together. Grind it smooth, good as new. You can put it in the middle so it wont have as much strain on it. I have no doubt that the welded hinge will be as strong as new. After you get this repair done you can search the wed for a salvage yard to find one (Buy two if they arn't too much). I did notice that both of the frame sides of the hinge were broke. Question, do you have some sort of stop to prevent the door from opening too fast with the wind? Also look at the brake. Are there both bright and dark spots on the brake. If so the hinge may have been cracked for some time and just finaly gave way. You might inspect the other two hinges to check for cracking. Good luck, Hold on to that Door and Happy RVing.