wolfe10

The converter or inverter/charger ALWAYS charges the house battery bank. SOMETIMES the coach maker installs a device (several different kinds) that also charge the chassis battery from shore power or generator. You need to check with your coach maker to verify how yours is set up. We can also give you easy instructions on how to verify this with a digital voltmeter. The alternator charges both battery banks in all RV's I have ever worked on.

Yup, check belt first, then thermostat.

Wayne, This is really a nebulous issue. I doubt 20% of the signs or 10% of employees REALLY know the B content of the last tanker if fuel they received. In many cases (excluding states where Bio content is "legislated") could be written-- maximum of ........ We have had some petroleum engineers on here and on the Diesel RV Club Forum and the answer seems to come up (in the absence of legislature mandated bio) it depends on the commodity price of bio vs dino diesel at the time of the order. I have NO first hand info on this topic, but, like you would sure prefer to stay away from Biodiesel, particularly when getting ready to store the coach. Those with first hand knowledge PLEASE RESPOND!

jmkidwill, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. We can be of more assistance if we know what kind of coach (gas vs diesel) and what kind of work you need performed (house systems, chassis, engine, etc).

Yes, I had to do the parallel park to get my license in Texas as well. NOT a big issue. To be specific: To start test, had to back up straight for 150'. Pull forward to beginning point and then back into parallel park space. Parking space was plenty long enough-- 18 wheelers use the same space, at least at the DMV I went to. Then do a driving test. To practice parallel parking, just grabbed a couple of cardboard boxes and when to an empty parking lot. 5 minutes and I had down how to do it.

While in the shop, have them check for worn components before spending money on upgrading. Things like sway bar bushings are pretty high failure rate items and not that expensive to replace. For being pushed around in the wind/by 18 wheelers, with a gas chassis, first thing I would add would be a rear track bar/panhard rod. And, yes both Bilstein and Koni have better shocks than the OE which were speced on COST, not necessarily quality.

markletheridge, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. I agree with you, I would certainly keep coolant temperature below 220 degrees F. While slowing down will help, be sure you climb long grades in a gear that keeps engine RPM in the upper half of its RPM range. So, for your ISC 2000- 2100 RPM. that turns the water pump and fan faster. Also, if you find yourself in a gear where you can not accelerate, drop a gear.

David, There is no "here is how they all work. But on most, yes the slides should be in when checking fluid level. That information should be in your coach owners manual.

Unless the OP comes back, let me suggest that we close this thread. Don't see anything else constructive coming out of it. Abdulandhazel, please feel free to PM me, and I would be happy to reopen or post for you. Thank you and sorry for your loss. Moderator

Herman, Not aware of a problem charging a dead AGM-- at least from the battery end of it. If there is, would like to see a link to documentation on it. But, many chargers, if sensing a dead battery will NOT begin the charge cycle. So, yes, I have had to use a cheap ("not smart) automotive charger to start the charging process-- not on our coach but on a neighbors.

Miles on a DP, are not really relevant unless the maintenance has been neglected. And, a coach with very low miles, particularly if lots of interior wear is often a very bad one to get-- may have been driven south for the winter and lived in, driven back in spring and parked. Then maybe parked for a couple of years while deciding whether to continue to travel/sell.

The charging curves for AGM and wet cell are close enough, were you to change to AGM's for house, set the charging program to AGM. Wet cell starting batteries will be OK.

Sid, Were the plates exposed? If so, good chance they are toast. Yes, have used AGM's for house batteries in our last 3 sailboats as well as motorhomes. More expensive than wet cells, but a good, maintenance-free choice. Make sure to re-program your inverter/charger when you change battery technologies.

Sid, If all cells in the house bank read about the same, before replacing, let the Xantrex inverter/charger charge them at least overnight and re-read hydrometer readings. Hydrometer readings that are all low but close to each other can indicate a "not fully charged battery" as well as a bad one. Though it can happen, normally one cell dies first, not all at the same time. So, decide tomorrow (if plugged in overnight now) whether to invest in new batteries.

Carl, No, we just got home from the W. Springfield Convention a week ago. So, a long "honey doooooooo list" on the house.

Carl, Yes, on the same opening page as the Cummins QuickServe Online. Right below the place to enter your engine serial number.

Nothing special about mounting shocks on an RV. Anyone who can do it on a truck can do it. And anyone who has done it on a car but has larger tools can do it. Been there, done that on all three of our rigs over the last 18 years, with hand tools only (ya, and a long cheater bar!).

With the HWH jacks, you are storing exactly correctly. Be sure to NOT turn off the HWH panel once the lights are off/buzzer quits, as that can trap fluid in the lines. With the heat of the day, that fluid can expand enough to trigger the panel/alarm. So proper procedure is to turn on the panel and hit Store. NOTHING ELSE. Sure, there can be other causes such as weak return springs, bent piston, etc.

No question, just as in every aspect of a coach, some chassis makers/coach makers spec better quality components. Shocks are no different. They are NOT all the same, hence the reason for the wide range of prices for them.

What jack system do you have? What store procedure do you use?

Sidney, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Yes, when stored with shore power on, your Xantrex inverter/charger should keep the house battery bank charged. And, check with Winnebago, as on some coaches, it will also charge the chassis battery. To verify is pretty easy: with a digital voltmeter (they start under $20 and are a must for any RV), ASSUMING that the inverter/charger has been properly programmed (easy instructions in your Xantrex owners manual-- usually just using your remote panel you should be reading 13.2-13.5 VDC at the house batteries. When you just plug in, voltage will be higher (13.8-14.2 VDC) but tapers off as the charger section reaches float level. You can also check the chassis batteries voltage to determine if a separate smart charger is needed. Do NOT use a standard automotive charger long term, as they can overcharge the batteries and destroy them.

Yes.

As I posted above, here is what I monitor: I monitor: Boost, Instantaneous MPG, Coolant temperature and HP. If there was any question about voltage, would monitor that instead of HP. Transmission temperature (assuming Allison 3000 or 4000 series) should really be a non-issue, particularly if running Transynd (synthetic ATF). The torque converter is locked up in "high" second, always in all higher gears. So only time you can really build heat is if you leave it in gear while stopped (best to put it in Neutral) or if transmission is hunting between gears (just down arrow to the lower gear). Yes, since transmission coolers are usually located in the engine radiator, high engine temperature does raise transmission temperatures, but certainly not to dangerous levels.

Yes, they do. Age and mileage to failure is certainly related to OE quality. Said another way, a Koni or Bilstein will last longer than the less expensive OE shocks. To check shocks: Visually check for leaking oil (not just damp, but leaking) Visually check the bushings. If worn, replace the shocks. Go over a parking lot speed bump at regular low speed, If an axle bounces more then 1.5 times, the shocks have lost their dampening.

Guess I will be the "contrarian" here. Most Ford V10's will downshift when they "think you may be near a highway overpass". I find the objectionable, from a noise standpoint, wear on transmission standpoint and MPG standpoint. If all the controller does (actually all I would want it to do) is change the shift parameters to overcome this downshift issue, it would be well worth it to me.