wolfe10

This is one of those topics to which you will receive a lot of different answers. They will range from "best practices" to "what I get away with". I will start it off with what I consider are "best practices". This is how we do it when pulling into a CG and going from generator to shore power: Assuming the generator is running under load (A/C's, likely converter or inverter/charger, perhaps water heater electric element, etc;), it is best for the generator to not go from heavy load to OFF. Best to have a couple of minutes cool down period. So, as Dianne goes into the CG office to check in, I turn off all loads (basically the roof A/C's, as I turn off the breaker for the electric water heater element when on the road). As we pull into the camp site, the generator is turned off. I check the outlet for voltage, polarity and ground, turn the CG breaker OFF and plug in. Then turn on the CG breaker. We start turning on heavy loads, while monitoring voltage (voltage can be fine with no load, but drop very quickly if CG wiring is inadequately sized as you add load).

I am certainly not arguing against installing an EGT gauge. But suggesting it is not mandatory unless an engine has been modified and/or a guy really doesn't know how to drive a diesel.

Totally agree that an EGT gauge is important, IF, repeat IF the engine is no longer stock. With a modern diesel engine in stock form, it is a non issue. Ya, if you add additional fuel and air, you CAN make the exhaust hotter than it was designed for.

You have mentioned one outside fixture-- I would open it and check for corrosion or water in it. Then start separating out the different circuits at the fuse box to identify which one is the culprit. $5-6K-- you could have all those circuits rewired for less than that, and really doubt more than one went bad at once.

Bill, The ScanGauge D does monitor boost-- at least it is capable of monitoring it. And on our 2003 Cummins ISL, it is monitored-- one of the 4 things I have it automatically set to monitor constantly. I monitor: Boost, Instantaneous MPG, Coolant temperature and HP. Then, can change any one of these to scroll through the rest of the menu.

I'm with you, Tom. We also use gas buddy and then Google earth to make sure we can access the station with our coach. Been working very well. Following the sale of Flying J, prices at all truck stops are WELL above market.

TPhome1996, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. If the ignition solenoid/relay is bad, nothing will work that normally works with the ignition on. Easy one to check is to turn on the dash HVAC fan. If it works, the ignition solenoid/relay is not the problem. Please tell us if the engine turns over? Slowly or normal speed? Please tell us of other symptoms (what works and what doesn't work).

To expand further, because of the many loads that run with the ignition on (engine, lights, dash HVAC fan, etc) the ignition switch is just used to close the IGNITION SOLENOID/IGNITION RELAY. And as desertdeals690 pointed out, these solenoid/relays need to be constant duty, not intermittent duty. The two look the same, but are NOT the same.

rlaird, Several variables, BUT if the same battery technology, same quality and same total AH rating, 12 VDC batteries in parallel are just fine/equal to the 6 VDC in series/parallel. That is the configuration on our sailboat and that life is a LOT harder on a battery than in a motorhome. Shore power at anchor???? I agree, there are more quality deep cycle 6 VDC batteries than 12 VDC, but there ARE 12 VDC batteries that are every bit as good.

If important technical information is available elsewhere, I see two options: 1. Post the information here. 2. Post a link to the good information on another site. Ya, I guess there is sensitivity on some forums to a first timer going in and trying to drum up support for his website. That clearly is not the case here. I often post links to other websites which detail information on an issue. Do that on a number of forums I participate in-- never had a problem or even had it mentioned. Brett Moderator

jleamont, Very good job of reporting-- often what works on a front engine truck may not be adequate for a longer diesel pusher. Might be a good idea to post all the PN's of what you used (pump, additional primary fuel filter, etc). Details of wiring the additional fuel pump (suspect ignition-hot source with its own fuse), exact change in fuel hose routing, etc. Thanks. Brett

Sounds line you are on the right track. And, to save some $$, I have no problem with a FACTORY reman dryer (Factory being Haldex, not Bubba using "almost as good" overseas parts).

If you can't find an answer here: http://pacbrake.com/service-support/ give PacBrake a call tomorrow: 800 663-0096.

bossgv69, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. What is it that you are trying to correct/improve? Have you check for play in the whole steering assembly? Bell cranks, particularly left one?

I do not have a definitive "this temperature is OK, this one too hot. Much more telling is to compare hub temperatures, taking into account things like sun on one side. If the absence of outside influences hub temperatures should be the same side to side. After checking them a time or two, you will know immediately if one is out of spec. BTW, many of us just walk around and lightly place our hands on the hub every time we stop for exactly the same reason.

Michelin RV Tire Guide: http://www.michelinrvtires.com/reference-materials/tire-guide-warranties-and-bulletins/ Click on "RV Tire Guide". All about the "Care and Feeding" and inflation tables.

tfakins, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Please tell us what coach you have-- the coach maker chose the fuse location.

This morning I reached out to my contact at Roadmaster. Here is his e-mail reply: The other posters are correct. We made it, sold it exclusively to CW. It is a single-pressure-no-matter-what braking system, not proportional. Installation instructions and wiring schematics: http://roadmasterinc.com/pdf/85-3476-02.pdf When plugged in, the unit should activate the air compressor immediately, and fill the internal tank. Regardless of external wiring connections, it should depress the brake pedal when test button is pushed. The two-wire connection is for a breakaway switch. The single wire connector is for a feed from the left/right combined brake and turn wiring on the toad. We tap off of green and yellow, combine signals with a Roadmaster wiring diode, and feed to single wire connector. See page 3. "Brakes in use" signal comes from vehicle's own brake light switch and is fed to a LED on the dash of MH. If the unit does not fill tank or depress brakes when test button is used, suggest that they contact Roadmaster Tech Support 800-669-6960. We still repair these units and should be able to fix him up with our repair program.

mapleskoff, Yes, your post was just fine. And, whether your home outlet is 15 or 20 amps, you are just fine plugging your adapter into it and powering your RV from it. What several were pointing out was that the WEAK LINK really dictates how much power (what you can turn on) you can use in your coach. As an example, even if you have 20 amps to the outlet, but the adapter is rated for 15 amps, the adapter would limit what you can run. Said another way, if you run over 15 amps on a 15 amp adapter, it will overheat, reduce voltage, and in extreme cases melt.

What happens when you shut off the engine with air pressure at cut-out PSI around 125 PSI? How fast does it drop? With engine off, can you HEAR a leak as you walk around the coach?

Doug, Sounds like you have a significant air leak or problem with the air system governor. When you shut off the engine, how long does it take for pressure to drop? While pressure SHOULD cycle, it should be over a period of many minutes-- even longer if not using brakes and on smooth road.

With a rear radiator, I would certainly extend the crankcase breather (aka slobber tube) to behind the fan shroud. Whether you also run it into a bottle is up to you. For the extension: 1" barb to barb fitting 4' of 1" ID hose. Oil resistant best, but even the clear reinforced hose will last many years. 4' is long enough that you can run it where you want and cut off excess. 2 hose clamps for above Wire ties to secure the extension. IMPORTANT: make sure the hose only runs downhill from the engine/no drip loop. If you decide to use a catch bottle, make sure that you have more square inches of exhaust than the current 1" ID hose. You do NOT want to add any restriction to the crankcase breather. Also a good idea to calibrate the engine oil dipstick with the correct quantity of oil for you engine. Any engine with an open crankcase breather (all large diesels prior to 2007) overfilling the crankcase just guarantees that it will come out the crankcase breather hose.

Because there are 4 tires in the rear, so each tire is supporting less weight than the 2 tires in the front.

Yes, 15 amp male to 30 amp female adapters are available almost everywhere. Certainly all RV stores and most Walmarts.

Towing capacity is determined by the "least strong" component. So, it could be the hitch, but could be frame or frame extension, brakes, transmission, etc. Definitely abide by your coach maker's figures.