wolfe10

Like others, we mounted a 12 VDC pump-- in our case on a piece of scrap plastic (would not absorb water). Then 5' of clear plastic hose on inlet with female hose fitting and 5' of clear plastic hose on outlet from pump with male hose fitting (to hook up to coach water inlet). Can hook female/inlet end to hose or put in bucket, etc.

Actually, his RPM/speed is in the correct range. Peak torque RPM is the LOWEST RPM at which you can safely operate the engine under load. Except on dead level ground you would not want to be cruising at peak torque RPM, as the slightest grade would cause either a downshift or cause the engine to be operated at below peak torque RPM. Also, were you to be geared such that 1300 RPM was 65 MPH in 6th gear, you would need to be going that speed before it would shift to 6th gear! Bad idea. We also have the ISL 400 and our RPM at speed is within 50 of what Jim reported.

Jim, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. I would sure not start with a "tuner" or other engine modification. VERIFY that you have little air restriction on the intake-- what is your AIR FILTER MINDER reading? Many have reported good results with Magnaflow mufflers and quieter than the Aero mufflers. If you have the two stage engine compression brake (vs just exhaust brake) exhaust noise can be an issue. As with the intake side, how much you gain by going to a free-flow exhaust depends on how restrictive your current set up is. Said another way, if the intake and exhaust are properly sized for your ISL, you will not gain that much. If they are restrictive, you will gain more.

Yes, plugging in with power OFF is better. The heavier the load, the more important it is. Not having power off when plugging in can be done, but falls in to the category of "what I got away with" rather than "best practices".

Tallmantwo, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Do you have an Allison transmission (i.e. Workhorse W chassis)? If so, there will be an identification plate on the transmission itself with model and serial number. With that and a quick call to Allison (800 252 5283) and you will know.

Because this thread directly offers something for sale (against FMCA Forum rules) it will be closed. But, because it offers one of the few alternatives for those with problems with their reels, it will not be deleted. The contact information is above: both e-mail and your ability to "Send Message" to them.

Jerry, You do not say what Xantrex inverter/charger you have, but the majority work like this: 120 VAC in from main coach breaker panel. When the inverter/charger sees 120 VAC (shore power OR generator), it does TWO things: 1. "Pass through" feature-- it passes that 120 VAC along to all circuits wired from the "out" side of the inverter (often, but not always through a sub-panel). There are two breakers ON THE INVERTER itself that can be tripped. And, if the circuits powered by the inverter are GFI protected (i.e. there are one or more GFI outlets) the GFI can be tripped as well. 2. The other thing the inverter/charger does when it sees 120 VAC is activate the battery charger function-- starting in bulk mode (14.0- 14.5 VDC), then tapering off to float mode (13.2-13.5 VDC). Yes, if batteries are very deeply discharged (below high 11's) the charger section may not work and you may need to use an auxiliary charger to bring voltage up. Assume you have a Xantrex remove panel. Please tell us what information it gives you and what the readings are on each.

Carl, Open the sofa half way. Disconnect the heater ducts. You will see two bolts on each end underneath that allow the top to be removed from the bottom. Suggest you use tape to label each arm/connection so you can easily reinstall it. Once in pieces, it is very easy to remove. And, in pieces, any upholsterer can do the work-- nothing RV specific about it.

Jerry, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Yes, the ATS (Automatic Transfer Switch) could have failed. And as you mention, there is a built-in ATS in the inverter (called "pass through feature" by most inverter manufacturers). That is why I asked if only inverted-supplied circuits are out or if everything supplied by one of the hot legs is out.

Most oil/wet bearing caps have a circle with arrow and "full" mark. It will be below the fill hole, as fluid expands with heat.

While I am a big "diesel fan", even at high RPM, the V10 is a good engine and will go over 100k miles easily with normal maintenance.

Kevin, You should easily be able to run 12 VDC to the back of the refrigerator. Then your RV refrigerator can at least run on propane. And, with extension cord on 120 VAC as well.

Linda, Tell us what kind of trailer connection you have-- there are very STANDARD schematics for each. Very strong suggestion to use one of the standard ones. Be aware that a bad ground can cause all kinds of crazy results (back feeding) if the ground is not a good solid one.

Again, your job is to determine what all those circuits have in common. Do both A/C's work? If not turn OFF and back ON the two breakers on the generator. If they do, keep going "downstream" until you find the common failure point.

Concerning "are these all things supplied by the inverter": If, in the past they have worked when you are not on shore power or generator on, they ARE supplied by the inverter. What you are looking for is "WHAT POINT ALL THE OUTLETS THAT DO NOT WORK HAVE IN COMMON".

Perhaps I am in the minority, but I would NOT run an ice maker while driving. Too easy (way too easy) for water to slosh out of the mold right after filling when you hit a bump or go around a corner. Have no interest in one HUGE ice cube from water sloshing out into the ice bin and freezing it into a solid block.

Look for a GFI that is tripped. If not a GFI, look ON, repeat ON the inverter for a breaker. Can you confirm that all the outlets that do not have power are off the inverter?

Note from Moderator: It is fine to correct someones incorrect facts and/or question someones opinions. It is not OK to attach the poster. One of the reasons that politics, religion and other controversial topics are off limits on virtually all Forums-- too easy to degrade into personal attacks. "Let's continue to play nice." That is what sets this Forum apart. Thanks.

Lee, Have you plugged in another appliance to the outside 120 VAC refrigerator plug to verify that it is hot? If so, with power off, remove the cover to the refrigerator PC board and check the fuse. Let us know.

On the Duotherm thermostat in our coach you scroll from Zone 1 to Zone 2 to AGS, then back to Zone 1.

Start by verifying with Allison that the 2500 is OK with added HP/torque. Then verify that the your cooling system is over-sized enough that it can handle the added heat load (the time you will use the extra power is on those long grades where coolant temperatures are already likely rising.

Some clarification: An absorption refrigerator can run off either heat source: propane or 120 VAC. But, if not plugged in (i.e. when the batteries are not being charged) it should be running on propane. That uses SUBSTANTIALLY less battery power.

The BIG horsepower race: 50 HP towing 40 HP. Or maybe the beetle was pushing as well!

Jim, You should be able to get information from Monaco. But, because the absorption refrigerator also runs on propane, it is fairly common for the propane solenoid to be wired directly from the house battery (through appropriate fuse and switch). I would start by looking for an on/off switch in the galley area or on your "control panel".

Depending on your generator, yes, an auto genset start can be added. And, depending on your thermostat, yes demand for A/C or heat pump could be wired to start the generator.