wolfe10

With oil bath bearings, here is my recommendation: Look for signs of leakage on standard walkaround-- trails of oil or dirt radiating from the center of the wheel to the outside. Leaks from the inner seal are harder to see, as they drip on the inside of the wheel/brake components. Any smell of gear lube is a giveaway of a problem. Once a month or so pop the center can and check visually for oil level and any sign of contamination (anything but clear gear oil). Change fluid every couple of years. I use a 30 year old hand transmission pump to suck out the old oil. Put in new. Repeat after driving. I find this a lot easier than trying to use the drain and hoping that it will not leak. As far as gear lube viscosity, go with your axle manufacturer's recommendation for your temperature range. Because a quart will easily to both fronts, it is worth going with a synthetic gear lube.

Mark, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Are you getting these VOLTAGE readings at the B+ terminal of the alternator? At the chassis batteries? If not, would be interested in a reading at the chassis batteries.

Herman, Really depends on how the inverter is wired to batteries, but if direct, yes. Note, a reset is not a "cure-all". But free and may work.

Herman, Let us know what Trace recommends.

I agree with Ray as to the place to start. Call around and find a HD truck tire dealer who can check RUN-OUT and them balance the fronts ON THE COACH. These guys still exist! Let us know where you are located and perhaps we can point you in the right direction.

Carl, Do you have oil bath or greased front wheel bearings?

Herman, Though I would confirm with Trace, it is common for the temperature probe to go on the negative terminal on the battery where the ground wire goes to the coach.

Try to reset it by disconnecting the 12 VDC from it and turning off the 120 VAC breaker to it.

Bill, I do not believe so. Would require a sender unit mounted in the exhaust. But., with a stock engine, EGT is not going to be an issue. Now, if you have "tuned it" (read added more fuel), EGT is certainly something you need to monitor.

Ronald, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. In a word, YES, it will harm the AGM's. Your inverter/charger should have three programmable choices for battery technology: wet cell, AGM and gel. AGM and wet cell are VERY similar and while AGM is the preferred setting, wet cell will be very close. Gels are different and is really the only setting that could harm your batteries.

John, You really need to determine if this is really a voltage issue or a gauge issue. Rig up voltmeter to the B+ terminal of the alternator OR if easier to the B+ (alternator in) terminal of your battery isolator (both will read the same). Drive and see if the voltage really varies, or if it a gauge issue. And, yes, indirectly the generator will charge the batteries-- certainly the house bank. It does this by powering your inverter/charger. Armed with actual voltage readings, Freightliner is where you need to go for answers to what/where to check.

Don, Very few motorhomes come with boost gauges. But most of the aftermarket monitoring systems do allow you access to that. Silverleaf is kind of the top dog. I have a Scan Gauge D (about $170). Boost is one of the menu choices with both.

While there are a few (very few) directional tires in RV sizes, those are clearly marked with arrows on the sidewalls. For the rest, direction of rotation or change in direction of rotation is a non-issue. Information to the contrary is basically a carry over from a LONG time ago.

Yes, two unrelated issues. If your 120 VAC systems (like room A/C's) work on generator but not on shore power, you need to trace the problem. The ATS (Automatic Transfer Switch) is where shore and generator come in an power then goes to the 120 VAC main breaker box. IF, repeat IF you are safe working around 120/240 VAC, you can open the ATS and check for power in from shore power and verify that you have power out to the breaker box. If 120/240 VAC is something new to you, have a qualified technician troubleshoot it. Could be the ATS, could be the shore power cord or connection in coach between the two.

Thanks, Rich. Will give it a try this weekend.

Both front and rear are analog, so they both go through the Zenith converter box.

Yes.

Thanks, Rich. I do have the manual, but it does not go into detail on where the Zenith box is in relation to antenna and Winegard VS. I am not getting 12 VDC at the roof antenna, but do have 12 VDC to the Winegard VS. Want to see how it should be wired before jumping in-- previous owner removed his satellite receiver and suspect the wiring was not left so remaining items would function.

Would appreciate some help in how to wire the following: Plasma TV Zenith converter box Winegard VS-0604/6412. Have 12 VDC in. Winegard rooftop batwing antenna DHS Surround sound system Removing non-functioning: VDV player VCR No satellite receiver Thanks. Brett

Jim, Hard to diagnose over the internet, but having not been driven for that long opens up a lot of possibilities such as "front end has not been greased for 6 years, rubber bushings dried out, etc" in addition to some actual issue related to the tire install.

TOTALLY AGREE. There is no "one answer fits all". And, posting what is correct for one coach may be the exact opposite of that is recommended for another coach.

henchmaniii, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Might need a Ouija board to answer that. Depends on the size of the hole, whether it will spread/rupture, etc. If (yes, big if) the air compressor can keep up with the leak (at present and if it grows) you are "free to move about the country". But, there is also the possibility that you will be on the side of the road with a ruptured bag and air leak so substantial that your air brakes lock up.

Ian, 192 is likely good for thermostatically controlled temperature. Newer engines are designed to run hotter. You can call the Caterpillar RV hotline with your engine serial number to verify the correct temperature: 877 777-3126. Whether the alarm goes off or not, a 20 degree F rise over thermostatically controlled temperature does mean you need to go to "Plan B". Gear down, slow down, etc.

Thanks for the "stop" signal, Herman. I left it off my initial post-- will go back and add it. Brett

Yes, a toad will jack knife very quickly. No different than a grocery cart pushed backwards. The caster makes it want to track straight when going straight and "turn like crazy" when going backwards. If there are two of you traveling together, best advice is to work together so that you have a "spotter person" guiding you. Do NOT back if you can not see them in your left rear view mirror. That allows them to walk to the other side and check for obstacles (either overhead or on the side). Work out very simple signs (when they are behind you and you are backing (without toad!): Left arm extended and waiving slowly up and down= back left Same but waiving fast= back hard left Both arms over head= back straight Right arm= see opposite of left...... On edit: Crossed arms means STOP. (thanks, Herman) Dianne can guide me into VERY tight sites. Start in an empty parking lot with a couple of cardboard boxes for marks.