wolfe10

Welcome to the FMCA Forum. As far as your individual license (i.e. driver's license requirement), you ARE correct. But, each state you operate in establishes their own rules/laws as far as towing limits on their roads, max speeds, max weights, etc.

Analog gauges are notoriously inaccurate. So, first question is: "How long does it take for the gauge to reach the point where it stays unless you climb a long, steep grade? Is this a recent phenomenon, or has it always done this? If over 10 minutes of driving with an ambient temperature of 65 degrees F, my first suspect (and part(s) to replace) would be the thermostat(s). Caterpillar calls them "regulators". Fairly inexpensive and easy to do.

Jack, A purist may say no, but the reality is that the ideal charge curve is close enough between wet cell and AGM that they will "play well together". It is a common set up.

Two "contradictory points": ALWAYS best to replace all batteries in a bank at the same time, as one dead cell in an older battery can cause over-charging of the good battery. The charging algorithms for AGM and wet cell are VERY similar. Not so with gel.

According to the Towing Guides: http://www.fmca.com/motorhome/towing.html Soul Base No Yes Front-wheel drive None 2,714 lbs. 163.0 in. That means that the automatic is NOT towable, the manual transmission IS towable 4 wheels down. Which transmission do you have?

Tom, This was more than 10 year ago, but here is the number from that time period: Impco RKJ-2 kit 201017 kit w silicone diaphragm

Tom, Excellent. One concern. As I recall, you have a LIQUID LP generator. If so, the gasket kit should be more $$$, as they have a high-temp, silicone gasket set.

wef94, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. One important statement you made is that things on the dash (such as dash HVAC fan) work when this happens, but that the Allison shift pad does not illuminate. Check with Freightliner, but on most chassis, there are TWO fuses/positive wires for the Allison-- one for "memory" and one that activates when you turn the key on. Also, use your Allison shift pad to check for Diagnostic Codes: With key on/engine off/Allison shift pad illuminated, hit the up and down arrows at the same time. This would bring up Oil level. Hit both of them again. That will bring up d-1 (for Diagnostic code 1). If no code, it will flash d-1 and then - -. This means there are no stored codes. If there is a code, hit the mode button to bring up d-2...... Pull out your Allison manual or look at Allison's website to determine what the codes are.

Tom, Try measuring voltage while cranking between the fuel solenoid positive and a good clean chassis ground (frame of coach itself, not generator frame) If higher than measuring from fuel solenoid positive to fuel solenoid negative/ground you may want to make a small/inexpensive modification: Your generator is mounted on a slide tray, so the ground side of the circuit can be iffy (uses the ball bearings of the slide as ground path. Easy solution is to run a large-gauge ground wire from generator electric end (one of the large bolts) to a good clean piece of chassis steel. That should do two things, increase voltage to the solenoid and increase engine RPM from the starter.

Larry, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Yes, it certainly could be. But, start by verifying that you have adequate voltage at the A/C. If voltage sags badly, it can also cause a no-start. If you are safe working around 120 VAC and are familiar with discharging capacitors, indeed go up and check. Many times bad capacitors will have leaked and "look" bad. It is certainly a relatively inexpensive item compared with an A/C unit.

Check the tires in the morning before driving/before the sun shines on them. Let us know what you find.

Jerry, The important point here is "the rest of the sentence": ...and stays on even if service brake released until throttle is applied. So, even a light application of the service brake for 1 second will turn on and keep on the exhaust brake until the throttle is applied. Again, there are some coaches where programming latch mode will not work, since it requires a signal from the brake switch to the Caterpillar ECM.

There are two "fuel saving" changes you can have programmed into your engine ECM: Soft cruise: allows speed to vary by 2.5 MPH from set speed before major changes to throttle position occur. Regular/hard cruise is what is programmed in at the factory. Control of the exhaust brake: LATCH mode is my favorite. This does require that your chassis maker provided a brake (service) signal to the Caterpillar ECM. In Latch mode, the exhaust brake switch can be left on all the time, yes allows COASTING when you want it. With Latch mode, exhaust brake switch on: When throttle released, you COAST-- no exhaust brake When you step on service brake, exhaust brake is instantly engaged and stays on even if service brake released until throttle is applied. Talk with your Caterpillar dealer about these two programming changes. If your engine diagnostic port is accessible, it only takes 10 minutes.

Jerry, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Peak torque on your engine is 1,440 RPM. On flat ground, best MPG would be at or just above that figure. If in rolling hills, 1,600- 1,700 would probably yield better MPG, as it would not downshift on every grade. Use of economy mode will help in rolling hills. As would soft cruise which allows for more speed variation around the set speed before it takes the throttle to WOT. And, with that tall a rear axle ratio, were you in danger of running out of fuel, better MPG would probably be at the 1,440- 1,500 RPM in 5th gear. For more detailed information go to this page and download the Caterpillar document: http://forum.dieselrvclub.org/index.php/topic,6594.0.html The publication for gearing for 2,000 RPM at 60 MPH is for trucks pulling a more weight, not motorhomes.

Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Once you got it right side up, probably easier to get moving.

Another good option with the Sheppard steering box is to have it blueprinted by: http://www.redheadsteeringgears.com/ Several of the well known RV suspensions shops recommend and stock them.

Jerry, I agree, IF (one of the BIG IF's) your present tires are safe and don't need immediate replacement AND you are headed to Oregon. But, that 700+ miles on tires of questionable condition could turn out to be a bad decision if you have a blow-out.

Was talking with Mike Bronzini with Redlands Truck & RV on Friday (he is on the panel with me on the Suspension Seminar at Pomona). They are a FMCA/Michelin Advantage dealer and along with other service work, will be installing tires at the Pomona Convention. Said he had a whole truck full of fresh (December build date) tires loaded for the Convention. I have no information either way as to whether there will be other dealers offering tires through the FMCA/Michelin program. If you will be at the Convention and want further information, contact Redlands: (888) 249-0124

My only question is about the WEIGHT of the new truck and your coach's towing capacity AND GCWR. Agree on the two manufacturers-- both with quality products. We have towed with Roadmaster gear (tow bar, brackets and brake) for the last three toads and 200,000+ miles. No problems.

Yes, it is fine to drive (i.e. up and down hills) with the refrigerator on. It is only operating out of level and not moving that allows the coolant to cease flowing and therefore the boiler temperature to rise. Said another way, the motion of the vehicle keeps it working fine.

Torsion bar? Not familiar with that one for the F53 chassis. Are you talking about a TRACK BAR or ANTI-SWAY BAR?

Equalization should/does only start with the batteries fully charged. The voltage is driven up, but amperage (charge rate) is very low within a few minutes. The process desulfates the plates-- sulfates are deposited on the plates during discharge. In fact for years, I used an old 6 amp Sears charger to do this-- charge rate drops to 2-3 amps. Like Rich, I monitor the equalization process with a hydrometer. When no rise in SG for 30 minutes, I quit the process. There is NO "here is how long it takes". Depends on the batteries-- as they age, it takes longer. It has taken from 30 minutes to 4 hours. BIG CAUTION: A good idea to disconnect the batteries from the coach appliances with PC boards during this process. Many PC boards are not "happy campers" at 15+ VDC. Depending on your coach, may be easiest to turn off the salesman switch and then pull fuse to refrigerator or other circuits that the salesman switch does not disconnect.

Sorry, not heard of them either. Might give Michelin a call on Monday: Michelin 800 847-3435.

Unless the person at Spartan knew your coach weights, he could not give you accurate inflation information. If you are a weekend camper and the last guy who called was a full-timer, the "here is THE answer" would be wrong for at least one of you.

The advice on PSI from Spartan was very likely based on each axle being loaded to its GAWR. Hopefully, you are NOT loaded that heavily. Said another way, you could be way over-inflated. Only way to know is to weight: 1. Each wheel position (best) or 2. Each axle (easy in virtually any town in N America.) Only then can you reasonably determine the correct PSI. The correct PSI for the tires on our coach is 70 or 120 BASED ON ACTUAL WEIGHT. BIG, BIG DIFFERENCE.