wolfe10

Jerry, Are those courses geared for RV techs, or "Training for Non-mechanical Folks"?? Also, if you have a diesel coach, the Diesel RV Club (an FMCA Chapter) does 3 half day maintenance seminars geared for "non-mechanical folks" at their Rallies (I know-- I conduct them): Next one in March (two weeks prior to FMCA Convention in Pomona) in Desert Hot Springs, CA: http://www.dieselrvclub.org/event-1735866

Don't know what are of the country you are in, but there are many maintenance seminars geared for the non/semi-technical at FMCA Conventions. Might want to keep an eye as seminar details become available for the Pomona CA Convention in March 2015: http://www.fmca.com/conventions-64/pomona-2015/3790-family-registration-fmca-redmond-2014.html As in the past, there will be seminars on the "care and feeding" of your electrical system, appliances, chassis, engines (if diesel), etc. A very good learning opportunity.

Jerry, I can get this started. Modern LED TV's draw substantially less power than the old tube TV's, so power consumption should not be an issue. On our 1997 Safari Sahara, I removed the OE TV and replaced with a Vizio M260VA in the same location. Removed the cabinet and cut it down on top and front to accommodate the dimensions of the new TV (TV the largest that would fit in the original width AND had front speaker). So, I did not modify any surface that showed, but raised the cabinet and moved it forward so it lined up with the middle cabinet. I then removed the inside cover on the pillar between driver's side windshield and drivers side window and installed an extension of the feed from the backup camera down to the dash area where I installed a new monitor (flush mount to the right of the driver's area). I did not research the overhead structure to see if it could handle a swing down TV. I did just that on our previous coach, but do not know if the structure in the cap has beaming that could hold the TV. Yes, the OE antenna will pull in digital signals. There are also more directional antennas from both Wingard and Jack that can be attached to your OE antenna mast with no modification.

It can be very confusing: The ISL is the only engine, to my knowledge, that came with EITHER an exhaust brake or engine compression brake. And, Jacobs Corp makes BOTH engine compression brakes (aka Jake brake) AND exhaust brakes. So the name of the company does not tell you which technology you have.

Herman, Best way to confirm what type of brake you have is to call Cummins with your engine serial number, but, yes if nothing between turbo and tail pipe on the exhaust side, I suspect you have an engine compression brake. Note: Most engine compression brakes are TWO STAGE, so switch would likely be HI/LO. Exhaust brakes are merely on/off.

Herman, Yes, the ISL could be ordered with either an engine compression brake (Jake brake) or for less $$ an exhaust brake. The majority of exhaust brakes are bolted to the turbo, though some are mounted further down in the exhaust.

Pacbrake sells their own lube-- under $10. And here is where to lube it: http://pacbrake.com/supplemental-brakes/fixed-orifice-exhaust-brakes/maintenance-2/

My assumptions: No ABS on 1992 coach. OP stated that the brake lines (flexible lines) were just replaced. Unlikely that the same symptoms would apply before and after replacement, yet they be the cause of the problem. That is why I wondered about a crushed brake line to the right front (the metal line). BUT, a crushed line would not allow one to bleed that caliper.

Jerry, I remember some of those grades in VT. Were you in second gear with exhaust brake on during the descent of those 13% grades. If so, am surprised you needed much use of the service brake.

bprg8of9, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Boy, that is a tough one, as the parts you have replaced should have addressed the problem. With a violent pull to the left, first suspect would be that the front right brake is not working or working very poorly. A crushed brake line over to the right front wheel could cause that, but would certainly have turned up when they tried to bleed the new line and caliper (and no fluid would come out). That system has been used on thousands of RV's and it is a good one. Are your calipers floating calipers or are they fixed with pistons on both sides? If floating calipers, lack of lube of the slide area (probably left front) could cause it to drag, but unlikely an issue with brand new calipers.

Yes, moving the HOT and NEUTRAL is critical. Ground really makes no difference, as main panel and sub-panels are all grounded together. So, if you like, move the ground as well, or leave it where it is. Said another way, all the panel grounds are tied together.

Unless there is something very wrong with either your refrigerator or installation, this should be a non-issue.

Tom, Then, my first question would be "do you have someone familiar with the DD 6V92-- I just bought one that has not been run in a long time?"

Tom, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Suspect this has a Detroit Diesel 2 stroke engine. If so, you will want to find an "old timer" who knows these engines. Please verify the engine, as that will affect recommendations.

BorJGreen 1031, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. A couple of assumptions you need to verify: You have the torasilatic suspension, not air suspension. You have hydraulic over hydraulic 4 wheel disk brakes. If so, you do not have an engine-driven air compressor. With the big Caterpillar engine, you have an engine compression brake, not exhaust brake. So, no PacBrake air compressor. If all that true, you will have a 12 VDC air compressor. Likely location is in the very front or in one of the forward basement compartments. The solenoid, at least on our Safari Sahara was in the very front (access from front). Pretty easy to identify as it has both two wires and two small-diameter air hoses. If your compressor is working, it should be pretty easy to locate. Turn the ignition key to on, but do not start the engine. The compressor should run to pressurize the system-- walk around the outside listening for it. There are several points of failure: Fuse or wiring to compressor. Pressure switch-- should be either on or very near the compressor. Compressor itself. Solenoid switch. This failed on our coach-- the rubber material used in the seal area denigrated, "gluing" the plunger to the seat. So, no horn AND an air leak that kept the compressor running more than it should. Wiring from horn ring to solenoid. Air line from compressor to solenoid and then to the horns on the roof. Let us know what you find as you get into troubleshooting.

Welcome to the FMCA Forum. You need to tell us where you are-- a tire 1000 miles away will not be of much use. For only 20 miles, wonder if someone would "rent" you their spare? What chassis-- that will help determine if a wheel would fit.

Gary, Be sure to move BOTH hot and neutral.

Bill, You have been a real asset here on the Forum. Hope you are able to stay in touch.

Since your coach is on a Roadmaster chassis (Monaco's in-house brand) I would give Monaco a call with your VIN. They can pull up a schematic of your air brake system and tell you: Monaco Technical: 877-466-6226 Mon - Fri: 7:00am - 4:00pm PT Be sure this important SAFETY upgrade has been done-- rear trailing arm failure: http://community.fmca.com/topic/569-important-safety-problem-monaco-holiday-rambler-safari-chassis/

Mark, Give Monaco a call with your VIN. They should be able to walk you through troubleshooting this: Monaco Technical: 877-466-6226 Mon - Fri: 7:00am - 4:00pm PT

Yes, the trailing arm issue is very serious. But, I do not believe the "new Monaco" Corp is involved/will pay for this. Here is a better look at the issue: http://community.fmca.com/topic/569-important-safety-problem-monaco-holiday-rambler-safari-chassis/ But, with that said, I do not believe that the trailing arm failure issue is related to a quirky emergency brake warning buzzer.

Colaws: http://colawrvsalvage.com/

TimmersRL, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Do you have a link to the new Federal requirements-- if so, please post. Was not aware that driver's licenses were anything but state requirements-- in the state in which you are licensed, with reciprocity in all other states. Thanks.

Using a relay to power the headlights (usually two, one for low and one for high beams) is relatively inexpensive and a reasonable upgrade. That way the switch only handles less than an amp-- the power needed to close the relays. Will give brighter headlights as well due to less voltage drop.

Small clarification: The propane furnace is 12 VDC, not 120 VAC.