wolfe10

ASSUME you are safe working around 240 VAC (know to turn everything including inverter off, etc). If not, have someone qualified and safe work on it. I would start by starting the generator. That will tell you if the issue is on the "coach side" of the ATS. If everything works on generator power, the coach side is OK, since from the ATS on generator and shore power use exactly the same wires. That would suggest you have an issue with the CG outlet, shore power cord, shore power inlet on the coach or ATS. If nothing works on generator, then start in the ATS and then house main 120 VAC breaker box.

Sure. Call Monaco with your VIN: Monaco Technical: 877-466-6226 Mon - Fri: 7:00am - 4:00pm PT

Glenns, You are getting into serious engineering issues there. The CFM of your OE fan is HUGE-- too large to be powered by electric fans (at least not from a practical standpoint). Again, the only "reinventing the wheel" that I would do (only after confirming that all the basics are done) would be to add a front radiator using the existing plumbing to the dash heater core.

Let's make sure we are all on the same page here. Fuel comes from the tank to the primary fuel filter/water separator. Freightliner chassis did have an inline filter on the frame rail in front of the primary filter, but not aware of any Monaco products that had one. The fuel then goes to the lift pump, then to the secondary (fine) filter and then to the engine. From your description, I ASSUME that it is the primary filter/water separator that is clogging. Wonder if someone put something in the tank? Since this seems to be an on-going problem, you might find a FUEL POLISHER. Very common in the marine industry. They will use a high speed pump to suck from the bottom of the tank, run it through large filters and return it to the tank. When nothing more is being trapped by their filter, you are good to go.

Let's back up a minute. WHAT do you find in the filter(s) when they clog up: black particles, black and slimy, rust, dirt, water....? Then we can advice what to use.

Glenn, I would look at the size and shape of what would fit behind the grill or other location in the front of the coach where it would be in the air stream. Suspect that a radiator designed for even a small 4 cylinder car would be quite adequate as a supplement to your OE cooling system.

Climbing grades, 2000 RPM with your Caterpillar 3126 rear radiator should keep you from overheating. If it does not, then find the problem as outlined in my first post.

OP said he has a rear radiator.

Were I going to do a modification to increase cooling system capacity, I would put a radiator up front. Use existing hoses to the dash heater. Install valves to divert from heater to radiator. An external transmission cooler would help some, but be aware that an external cooler can OVERcool the fluid in cold temperatures. If you do go with a secondary cooler, route the fluid to it first, then to the OE cooler. I don't think a side scoop would do much-- that fan moves a lot of air and there is enough turbulence under the coach that I doubt it would do much good. And in rain, could funnel water to the engine.

Sorry your coach maker made it so hard to access the engine. But, the access will allow you to clean the CAC and perform other "top of engine" jobs. Because it doesn't sound like the top of the engine has ever been accessed, it is not likely that the initial valve adjustment has been done. Recommended for around 30,000 miles. I have to ask-- why not fix it instead of having to hope ether will start it without damaging the engine??? Even if the engine temperature is too hot to call for the intake manifold heater to be on, you can verify that you do have 12 VDC to the large wire/lug from the battery to the relay. There is likely a breaker or fuse on that line that you may want to check. Then when the engine is cold, you can check the rest.

Yes, the transmission cooler is in the radiator, so as coolant temperature rises, so does transmission temperature. But, unless you allow the transmission to "hunt" between gears (shifting up/down/up/down) the Allison really is not generating much additional heat, as the torque converter is locked up in all gears starting with higher RPM in 2nd, as well as 3,4,5 and 6.

Not sure I understand how your coach is set up. Do you have an ATS (Automatic Transfer Switch) or do you have to manually plug generator or shore power to get 120 VAC to the coach? And, if you are talking about powering the house from the RV generator, that is a HUGE no-no unless done properly. Generally this is done to power the house in the event of a power outage. You will need an electrician to install basically a "transfer switch" on the house side breaker box. Were you just to plug in, you would be powering the power company grid and could electrocute someone working one the line. You only want ONE source of 120 VAC. So, either generator or shore power in your RV. Same for your house-- either grid power of (grid power disconnected) your RV generator.

Let's start at the beginning: Have you cleaned the front of the CAC (Charge Air Cooler). It is accessed from the bedroom? Shine a strong flashlight inside the fan shroud. Verify that the perimeter, particularly lower perimeter is as clean as the center (the fan blades sling the dirt to the perimeter). Is you crankcase breather hose extended to behind the fan shroud? If not, you are putting oil vapor (and then dirt) into the CAC and radiator. How old is the thermostat (may have two)? Caterpillar recommends replacing every three years. BTW, Caterpillar calls them "regulators". Have you verified that the water pump belt (a separate belt that is NOT on an automatic belt tensioner) is in good shape and not too loose? Lastly, when you say overheat, how hot are you talking about? And when this happens, what RPM/throttle position are you using?

Herman, I guess it could be, but never heard of valve guide problem on either a Caterpillar or Cummins engine with the kind of miles/usage we put them to. And, were this the issue, the smoke would be blue.

Let me clarify Herman's comment. What is at risk (admittedly very small risk) is your shore power cord, ATS (Automatic Transfer Switch) and wiring to your coach main breaker box. From the main breaker box onward, the breaker box main 30 amp breaker and individual breakers protect you. But, if anything drew over 30 amps "before" the main breaker box (a partial short for example) the wires are undersized for more than 30 amp load. But, a partial short is very rare. And a regular/dead short will trip either a 30 or 50 amp breaker. So, yes, there is a small risk. One most of us acknowledge and accept. Checking wire connections as part of an annual inspection gives even a larger degree of confidence. I am talking about checking for cleanliness and tightness the connections at coach shore power inlet, ATS and breaker box. Also that the shore power cord ends are not burned or showing signs of overheating. Just basic maintenance practices.

No first hand experience with them, but I know Henderson, Precision Alignment, etc recommend them: http://www.redheadsteeringgears.com/

Glenns, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. You have a solid front axle. So, caster is adjusted with wedge shaped shims above the axle. Any truck alignment shop can handle this-- it is basically a standard truck solid front axle with a different suspension above it. Definitely do NOT change ride height to alter caster. You will take out your transmission output shaft and likely shocks if you adjust it enough to affect caster. Also, what steering box do you have? If the Sheppard M100, they have a lot of "on center" play. It can be taken out by blueprinting the steering box. Assume your tire pressure is appropriate for your actual "going down the road" weight, not necessarily the same as on the GVWR sticker. Lastly, new tires require a break in period before they loose their "squirm".

Ray, I am not aware of any "inside the tire" tire monitor systems marketed for RV's. Bendix used to have one (an excellent one), but it is no longer marketed to RV's.

Walt, The LEAST STRONG component determines GAWR (Gross Axle Weight Rating). Could be axle, but more likely tires, brakes, suspension, etc.

Yes, all states recognize all other states valid driver's licenses. So, if you are legal in your home state, you are good anywhere. Legal limits such as speed limits, weight limits, etc DO vary by state.

Agree on RV.cams: http://www.rvcams.com/default.htm

Have driven this route several times (Houston to Angel Fire, NM). STRONGLY recommend against the "back way through Las Vegas, NM". That way is longer and roads are not as good. Shortest and easiest is from Amarillo to Clayton, NM. Then 9 miles shorter to go through Springer, but narrower road/poorer surface than going through Raton.

Carl, I have forwarded your question to our FMCA staff support person.

Really no way to tell at this point. Bulging batteries does normally means overcharging. But, one bad cell and a perfect charger will WAY overcharge basically what is now a 10 VDC battery instead of a 12 VDC one. And, if the charger is overcharging (particularly on float) it can do the same thing.

Actually GVW= Gross Vehicle Weight. I read this as "what the coach weights". Meaning a weight slip is proof unless they want to weight the coach. GVWR= Gross Vehicle Weight Rating Note: I am NOT familiar with their rule, just defining well-recognized terms.