wolfe10

Yes, think this thread has run its course. We all agree: 30 amp RV power provides up to 30 amps of 120 VAC. 50 amp RV power provides up to 100 amps of 120 VAC. And, that on older set ups with smaller gauge wire, worn breakers, etc, one may not be able to draw the full amps without tripping the breaker. Certainly none of us here came up with the terminology-- the important thing is that there is a HUGE difference in available power between 30 and 50 amp RV service.

John, Agreed, if more than 50 amps (or even very close to that for long enough to overheat the breaker) is demanded of either leg, both breakers will trip. But, don't want to confuse here: 50 amp RV service is 100 amps @120VAC. Here is a good link: http://www.myrv.us/electric/Pg/50amp_Service.htm Second paragraph: Each leg is 50 amps @ 120 volts. 50-amp X 120-volt = 6000 watts But since there are 2 HOT 120-volt legs at 6000 + 6000 = 12,000 watts to use in the RV...

John, Not sure I understand what you are saying. If the outlet is 50 amp and the coach is 50 amp, you DO have 100 amps available. A 50 amp outlet has two 50 amp breakers pinned together. So up to 50 amps on L1 and 50 on L2. You are correct, the neutral only carries the DIFFERENCE between load on L1 and L2. Indeed, if the coach is only wired for 30 amps, whole different ball game.

rthooker@msn.c, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. I am trying to picture how a cylinder liner can slide down and hit the crank. Clearly, if it did there are issues with the block. Please, please post pictures of this. Assume you have verified this is not a "wrist pin issue" (see info above). Though most of those problem occurred very early in engine life, not after more than a decade. Was there evidence of cylinder liner erosion (picture of outside of cylinder liner would be helpful)? Like all diesel engine with liners, the proper coolant is important for engine life. Improper coolant can lead to cylinder erosion and in worse cased to holes through the cylinder liner.

Jim, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Yes, you have a vacuum problem. Could be nothing more than a vacuum line between manifold and HVAC control that came off, melted or cracked. The default position when no vacuum in the defrost vents. So, pull the engine cover and start "running the vacuum lines".

https://www.etrailer.com/faq-wiring.aspx

Excellent question. Best, in the morning before starting. Next best, at least 10 minutes after shut down. Worse, immediately after shut down. Worst, with engine running And, do not add oil until oil level reaches the REAL "add" mark. I say real because no engine manufacturer supplies the oil dipstick-- the chassis maker does that. And, and excellent idea to CALIBRATE the engine oil dipstick to make sure it reflects your engine manufacturer's recommendation for your engine oil capacity. It is free and easy to do at your next oil change.

Ray, Not sure those statements are "unproven" or incorrect. What they are is "legal speak" for CYA by the tire manufacturer. While they are A WAY to determine the correct tire pressure, even according to the tire manufacturers, determining tire pressure based on load is still THEIR RECOMMENDED METHOD. That is why they have gone to the work of compiling the inflation tables and spending several pages explaining weighing and the correct way to determine correct PSI. I am holding the glossy hard copy of the Michelin RV Tire guide. It devotes 5 pages to showing how/why basing PSI on load is recommended. This in addition to the pages of actual inflation tables. Were the "legal speak" their recommendation, they could have saved a lot of money on printing these books.

Yes, nice solution, Tom. Brett

Bill, Agree completely. One fact (coolant temperature) alone would never signal of excessive EGT in time, as coolant temperature rises much, much more slowly than EGT. Again, I am not an expert on how Caterpillar programmed their computer, but knowing engine RPM, boost and fuel consumption as well, repeat as well as coolant temperature, I suspect that they can predict EGT's pretty closely. I really wish a Caterpillar programmer could give us an overview of this, but seriously doubt they would allow us a look into their secret book. Suffice it to say, THEY are confident that unless the engine is modified, their programming will not allow it to "harm itself", but instead will de-rate to reduce HP/heat if it senses it is approaching a dangerous operating condition. Would be great for someone with one of these advanced engines to also monitor EGT's and let us know if, indeed, the engine is "self-protecting". wingman5th-- would look forward to your report. Thanks.

Bill, Again, I am quoting a retired (i.e. real hands on tech) Caterpillar tech, not myself. But, I would speculate that the computer could monitor RPM, fuel, air/boost as well as engine operating temperature and get VERY close to what EGT's would be and could easily reduce either boost and/or fueling to keep the engine in correct operating perimeters. Agree, with a mechanical fuel system, particularly one that has been modified, monitoring EGT is important.

TandCAllegro, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Yes, I drove a 2015 Ford chassis 34' coach with the Liquid Spring rear suspension at the Chandler FMCA Convention. Extremely impressive. Significantly reduced sway, bounce and softer ride. And, we PUSHED IT HARD, as most coaches handle fine when driven "grandma style". If you will be at the Indianapolis convention, the guy presenting the Suspension Seminar (yes, I normally do it, but our extended family is taking my dad for a cruise for his 100th birthday, so will not be in Indianapolis) is Wayne Wells, who works for Liquid Spring. Doubt there will be much of a sales pitch in the Suspension Seminar, but get to know Wayne and hopefully, he will have a coach like yours that you can drive at the convention with the Liquid Spring suspension.

Because I don't know the answer, I reached out to a retired Caterpillar tech. Here is his reply: Caterpillar does not give a spec for electronic C-7. Reason for this answer with electronics sensors, regulators , switches, the value of electronic components have a preset value that the ECM monitors. If a problem happens check engine light will come followed by engine reduced power ( derate ) then complete engine shut down. The time before electric engines checking exhaust temp was very popular. One thing to note as in this case turbo failure ( bearing failure ) the loss of oil into CAC in most cases rod bearing failure from lack of oil before heat build up. This is where all the electronic sensors come into play with engine ECM and shutdown. Just another add that Caterpillar has covered with electronic systems.

HWH jacks use either their own fluid or Dexron. The difference is that HWH's fluid is clear, so won't stain if it leaks. But Dexron works just fine (the red colored stuff).

Actually, best advice is to VERIFY what the OE fluid was for your coach. One of our DP's used Delo 400 15-40 for hydraulic fluid. Add ATF or power steering fluid and you would really screw it up!

OK, lets cover how to change the filters on the hydraulic reservoir. Main thing is to NOT just remove the over and reach into the oil and remove the filters. That will allow the unfiltered oil to get "past" the filters and go straight to the pump. SO, buy 5' of cheap 1/2" or larger ID clear plastic hose. Remove the lid. Use the hose to siphon off all the fluid from the outside of the filters. THEN, remove the filters. Replace filters and fill with the OE spec'ed fluid.

Agree, no question, this is NOT a pressure relief valve. The are on the OUTSIDE of the water heater. Drop the outside access door and you will see the pressure relief valve. OP's issue is on the back/inside of the water heater.

VERY, VERY likely the reservoir in the very back is for power steering, NOT jacks. Don't know what brand jacks you have, but all I have worked on have their own built-in reservoir with no filter. Many of the PS reservoirs also have filters in them-- yes, they need to be changed.

Agree-- what is the level in the hydraulic reservoir on the dipstick. Overfilling when cold will expend when hot and can certainly overflow.

Have you checked fluid level with the shift pad (assume this is an Allison 3000 series transmission)? And, by vent cap, do you mean the dip stick tube or something on the transmission? I agree with Rich, make sure you do not have coolant in transmission/ATF in radiator.

Please, back to: Adding Links to Text in a Post

Yes, we need to know if you have a 30 amp coach or 50? Plugging into 30 amp or 50 amp?

Is it ducted? Are forward vents open, bedroom vents closed-- that should help if you have ducted air. Bedrooms are very small. Depending on where the temperature sensor is, it can cause short cycling. Be sure the vents are not aimed at the sensor.

Two questions, as you are in some SERIOUS mountains: What are you driving/towing? How much experience do you have in serious mountains/very technical driving? Without answers to both, it would be really hard to give advice.

OK, the two routes that are a no go: 434 north from Mora is narrow, steep and under construction. 120 east from Ocate has an gravel section through the mountains. So your choices are (a little longer, but better roads) through Raton. Or a little shorter/roads OK, but not as good) through Springer and then 58 west. Have done both the latter two many times in our motorhome-- kind of a toss up. Either is just fine for any size RV.