wolfe10

With the Caterpillar manual primer pump, no need to open a bleed screw. It primes through the engine, check valve and back the return line to the tank. It will go from easy (air is compressible) to very hard in a couple of strokes (fuel pushing against the check valve is not compressible). But it may take 50-75 strokes to get rid of the air. Also, be aware that if the level of fuel in the tank is lower than the filter head, when you remove the filter, fuel will flow all the way back to the tank, leaving you with 25+ feet of AIR. If this is the case, it may no prime with "normal methods". The solution if this is the case is to either loosen the bleed valve on the primary fuel filter or just loosen the filter element a little. Use compressed air in the fuel tank fill-- just put your hand over the opening with the air nozzle between thumb and index finger. All you need is 1-2 PSI-- enough to drive fuel through the line. Of course the best long-term solution is a ball valve on the inlet side of the secondary fuel filter. When changing fuel filters, just shut it off. Also, makes a heck of a good theft proofing!

jpaflag, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Do you have a Caterpillar secondary fuel filter? Does it have a manual primer pump? If so, use it to prime the fuel system.

Aheart, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Since you are on an Isuzu chassis, I would start with sites offering parts of the Isuzu.

To clarify: Tongue weight (weight on the coach) is applied to GVWR (Gross Vehicle Weight Rating) as well as GAWR (Gross Axle Weight Rating). Toad weight (carried on the toad's 4 wheels is applied to GCWR (Gross Combined Weight Rating).

What batteries do you currently have (number and size)? Do you boondock, or just go from CG to CG? Are the batteries in a location where you can get to them to check water level? In other words, tell us more about what your battery needs are.

Yes, many have done this modification. As long as the sway bar is still roughly parallel to the ground, no problem. It (actually, any sway bar for that matter) will not adversely affect ride quality as it only come into play when one wheel moves vertically different than the other wheel on that axle. Said another way, if both wheels go over the same bump, the sway bar does NOTHING/added zero to spring rate.

Let me clarify. This has nothing to do with how answers are posted on the FMCA Forum. But, one of the options everyone has is to receive e-mail notifications of all posts on threads of interest. An excellent tool if one has a specific technical issue and wants to immediately be notified of any posts on that thread. The complaints come in when that person's phone goes off multiple times a day and not one of the posts is relevant to his issue. Here is where one can select notification options: http://community.fmca.com/notifications/options/

Guys, PLEASE. I have received a raft of complaints about off-topic replies to posts. Remember, many receive e-mail updates on every post on threads of interest to them. It has to be very irritating to have a technical problem and receive 10+ off topic replies e-mailed to them.

Dlong9999, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Do you currently have a motorhome that you are trying to modify-- if so, what is it. That will help us offer you good advice. If you do not yet have one, what other considerations are important to you in selecting one?

08Winger, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Since it changes with engine RPM/load, the drive shaft is the place to start. And since it did not change with change of tires, again the drive shaft is where to start. Please do post what chassis you are on.

Not sure any of us know how they would choose a driver. BUT, I believe you can choose a driver (friend, family member, etc) and they will pay his expenses. So, probably a moot point.

Reminder of "RV Math": On 15 amp, you can use up to 15 amps total. On 30 amp, you can use up to 30 amps total. On 50 amp, you can use up to 100 AMPS TOTAL (TWO 50 AMP HOTS). Yes, all those total numbers are ideal numbers, assuming perfect wiring and breakers on the shore power side. Figure 10% less for sustained use.

It can only be trailered, not flat towed or front wheels only on a dolly.

No, a formula for tag vs drive axle can be very misleading. You need to verify what weight each axle is carrying.

Jim, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. What year is your Subaru? Automatic or manual transmission?

Yes, the full DOT number with the date code is only molded into one sidewall of each tire. Depending on the installer, it could be facing toward the outside or the inside. It is generally in a slightly raised/indented area at the end of the full dot number, since that part of the mold has to be changed weekly. It is a 4 digit code with no spacing. So, 4112 was made the 41st week of 2012. If a three digit date code the tire was made in the last century, as the date codes went from 3 to 4 digits on 1/1/2000!!!

This will be the first Forum get together that Dianne and I will not be able to attend. My father has his 100th birthday July 9, and our whole extended family will be taking him on a cruise. Brett

Ya'll really need to get back out in your RV's. This keyboard time is making some stircrazy. Almost like the dead of winter. But, then guess we can consider some it this entertainment time. BTW, I did e-mail my contact at FMCA yesterday (who will read it tomorrow when he gets to work) and asked for more information on the program. But, heck, look at all the fun we would have missed if it had been easy.

There are a number of factors that go into determining the useful like of a tire: 1. Run at correct PSI (never under-inflated/over loaded). 2. Stored covered (white cover cooler than dark colors) and/or indoors when not on the road. 3. Driven frequently better than just sitting.

And, have front end caster set toward the high end of spec (yes, involves installing shims).

RPSTEWART, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. I use two websites to choose stations: http://then.gasbuddy.com/ to identify less expensive stations along our route. Click on "map" in the area where you would first start looking to refuel. Then scroll along your route-- can cover a day's drive in 2 minutes. Then copy and paste the address of potential stops in: https://www.google.com/maps . Use both satellite and street view to see if it is RV friendly/you have room to maneuver.

If a Caterpillar dealer had worked on it, very likely Caterpillar Corp would have a record of it. Call the Caterpillar RV Hotline with the engine serial number and find out its history. 877 777-3126

Yes, first thing to do is verify that tire pressure is correct for the actual weight they are carrying. I would call the NM highway patrol and ask for their truck enforcement division. They often carry the individual wheel weight scales to check trucks. Perhaps you can arrange to meet them at the beginning/end of shift and have them weigh your coach. In most cases, they are impressed that you want to safely operate your coach and will accommodate. If that is not available, suspect they can recommend a scales, where you can at least get axle weights. Post what they are and what tires you have and we can get you to the correct inflation table for your tires. Actual weights will also allow us to advise on weight distribution. And, chassis issues call for a shop that works on chassis, NOT in most cases an RV dealer. So, if they work on medium duty/OTR trucks, they should know your chassis.

Indeed, do not leave the black tank valve open. Let it fill over half, then drain and flush.

I agree, as that means you either have an inverter with "pass through" feature or a separate ATS. In plain terms, when not on shore power or generator, the inverter supplies (inverters) the refrigerator from the house battery bank. And, when on shore power or generator, power automatically comes from that source. So, what inverter do you have/does it have pass through feature. And if not, does it "feed" a second ATS?