wildebill308

Sorry to hear about your problem. I think you can find pictures of your engine by going to Cummins Quickserve. It is the same reference your dealer uses to look up parts. https://quickserve.cummins.com/info/index.html Bill

That is a great idea. On smaller gaps I have heard of people using stainless steel wool. Bill

In re reading this thread I had the thought, Have you checked to see if you have water to the pump? Does it pump water? I hate to bring it up but the pump may be bad The motor can run but the pump part may be bad. Bill

I had the plywood as scrap after anouther project so it wasn't a added expense. I also saved money using my Kroger points and bought 35 gal diesel for $0.989 yesterday. That way I could afford the glue. Bill

Well yes they do came directly from Goodyear and Toyo websites. However as Brett said You have to read and understand what is being said. You don't get to cut and paste the part that out of context furthers your premise. That being said, have you weighed your coach, all wheel positions including tag if you have them? What is the GAWR for your front and rear axles? If you haven't you should run the "max" pressure listed on the sidewall of the tire. That is hoping you have the right weight/load range tires on your coach. Bill

Welcome to the forum. Bill

I agree Good Sam seems to be the bottom of the pile as far as service. By the way welcome to the forum LIVNCOAST2COAST. Bill

I grumble because watching cost is how I can afford my toys. These are some pads I made this spring. I had some that were just the 2X12 boards that were ok for hard surfaces but will split if used on dirt. These seem to be holding up well I used Gorilla wood glue to help hold them together along with the deck screws. Bill

I wish I could find real time data on a newer diesel. I have a 2003 computer controlled Cummins 5.9. The computer will run the engine harder than I can with the foot throttle. When using the foot throttle I seldom see 30# of boost. When on cruise the computer will often go to 36-38+# of boost. Also when on long rolling hills the computer will not downshift especially if in (Econ mode) until EGT temps are warmer than I want to see. I agree with Joe that probbabley more turbos are damaged by improper shutdown then we hear about because it is a cumulative thing. I remember years ago seeing a turbo installation that had an accumulator in the oil line to provide oil to the turbo after the engine was shut off. I think it would be a good thing to have now. Probably some bean counter said "we can save $20.00 if we eliminate that" Bill

Carl, What the Caterpillar tech was talking about was the turbo failure. "One thing to note as in this case turbo failure ( bearing failure ) the loss of oil into CAC in most cases rod bearing failure from lack of oil before heat build up." In this case I agree that a EGT gage would not have given any warning about impending bearing failure. However a EGT gage will tell you when temperatures have dropped to where it is safe to shutdown the engine with minimal chance of damage to the turbo oil system.(coking of the oil passages) Brett, There is no way to extrapolate EGT temps from watching coolant temperature. Your EGT temps can reach dangerously high temperatures and the coolant temp will not move. The reason is you have to heat all the coolant before you get a raise in temp on the gage. The best way would be to have a pyrometer sending signals to the computer. Bill

Welcome to the forum. Bill

I am wondering how it monitors EGT without a pyrometer? wingman5th, With your pyrometer in that location I would expect it to run in the 900*-1000* range at normal cruise. When you take it out for a run monitor what it shows under different loads. I would not want to see much over 1250* on a hard pull. I would be downshifting. You will find that lifting on the throttle will drop temps pretty fast, the same with downshifting which will also reduce the load. Let us know what you find out. Bill

Have you been to Victor before? Yes there is a big climb on 191/189 out of Jackson but it should be doable in your rig. I was there last summer and drove it in my toad but I don't think I would hesitate to take my coach over that route. By the way, welcome to the forum. I did not stay in Victor but not far away at Buffalo Run RV Park & Cabins,3402 US-20, Island Park, ID 83429, buffalorunrvpark.com, (208) 558-7112. This was a good location to use when visiting Yellowstone. What kind of time schedule do you have? One place I have stayed off I-80 was Cabela's Inc 115 Cabela Dr, Sidney, NE 69162 cabelas.com, (308) 254-5505 This is Their Main/home store. They have a full hook up RV park. Another place was Hickory Hollow Campground, 757 N 3029th Rd, North Utica, IL 61373 hickoryhollowcg.com, (815) 667-4996 I am working backwards I don't have any more places that would fit on your milage schedule. Here are a couple apps you should have. http://www.rvparky.com/ http://www.rvparkreviews.com/ I was in both Buffalo and Victor last year. Bill

Welcome to the forum. Are you talking about just geting through the park or to visit the park? It can be done but don't expect to find any place to park to see the sights. You may also expect long delays for construction and "possible" and real animal sightings. That is where someone thinks they saw some animal and they stop in the middle of the road (there are no shoulders on most of the roads) get out and look for the animal traffic in both directions stop get out and help look for the animal. I was there again last summer. I do not recommend driving your coach into the park. There are some parking lots in some of the big attractions/areas marked for trailer/motorhome but they are either full with motorhomes or have cars parked in them. The first time to Old Faithful it took almost an hour to find a place to park the toad. Bill

You can take it apart the way I described and not have to cut anything. Whatever you do you still have to remove the fitting coming out of the water heater. I don't see where cutting the pex gains you anything except more work. Bill

The fitting coming out of the water heater is/looks like a AN flared fitting. You need a adult size wrench that fits and it should break loose. Bill

I hate it when it it goes 'pfft'. By the way Welcome to the forum. Like Bryan said I would start by cleaning the burner tube and making shure there is nothing blocking airflow. Mud daubers love to clog up the air passages. Bill

That is why you get a E-ZPass. Saves money and time. It works in most of the North East states. Bill

Check the level of the fluid in the hydraulic fluid reservoir. Someone may have overfilled it. Bill

Yes when I was in the walk in store in NH the lady made a big point of telling me 3 times. "This does not work in Florida" Apparently they have a problem with people understanding that. Bill

Walter & Ernestine, welcome to the forum. Yes Come on down like some others have said I would look at doing a trip where you were in the deep south in the winter months. and the northern states in the summer. Bill

Yes I have found in NE that it is best to stay on main roads to the campground then go explore with the toad. Just beware that summer is road and bridge repair /construction time in that part of the world. I have found several bridges that normally would have been ok for the coach impassable because of road work on them. Luckily I was scouting a route with the toad. Bill

When I got my E-ZPass they explained to me that when the toad is hooked up to the coach to put the toad transponder in the special pouch so it won't read. That way the toad is billed as a "trailer" at a lower rate. There was no extra charge for the transponder for the toad. The toad is billed at a lower rate than the coach so it saves money when driving the toad. In Texas it doesn't matter as it reads both and there is no discount. There is a push to make all the toll roads inter operative on tolls but because of the diversity in equipment it hasn't happened yet. Bill

That valve is/looks like part of the bypass/winterising set up. You are never going to turn the flats you have rounded off on the left side of the valve as they are part of the valve. The "wrenching flats" are there so you can hold the valve while tightening the fitting you are screwing into the valve. I would start with the fitting coming out of the tank to the plastic T there is no way that can be frozen especially as it is a plastic fitting and I can see pipe tape sticking out of the joint. Then to remove the valve I would unscrew the fitting on the right side. Use 2 wrenches one to hold the line and one to turn the valve. Bill

Leon, welcome to the forum. I don't think they do. You can get your East coast E-ZPass online or stop at the first place that has a walk in store. I got my E-ZPass when I was in New Hampshire at a walk in store. https://e-zpassiag.com/about-e-zpass/where-can-i-use-it Bill