wildebill308

Welcome to the forum. It should be fairly easy to make a tip and have it welded to the end of your existing part. It can be "calibrated" when you do your next oil change. When looking for a replacement measure what you have and add about a foot. The excess can be trimmed off if needed. Talk to big truck parts places. Bill

First let me explain these are not cheap batteries. They are OEM for Freightliner. The standard price is $139.00 ea. The ones I took out were still good after 8 years. I had planned on changing my start batt next year as a PM. But for that price I changed them this year. Now please tell me how much you payed for "Lifeline" AGMs that are only guaranteed for 7-10 years. Bill

One thing not mentioned is the lines to the emergency brake valve on the dash. If the air noise is coming from the dash area I would check it. Bill

Just a heads up on a good price for batteries. I was at Freightliner Fort Worth Friday and saw they were still running their oem (groupe 31 I think) start batteries for $69.00. Should be at any Freightliner dealer. That is cheap, I bought two this spring. They weren't old stock just a month old. Bill

Without the noise how will you stay awake? Bill

When you are going down the road open your window and reach out and grab the struts for the window awning they often make a lot of noise. Bill

The donut is just a rubber sleeve to seal the hose into the receiving pipe. Most places have a threaded fitting that your elbow will thread into or not depending on it's condition. look at the picture of the sewer hose only partially in the drain that was posted above. You can see the donut in the drain. The main purpose is to seal the drain and prevent odors from escaping. Bill

Did you check the level of the transmission fluid? It could be just low. Call several shops sometimes they offer "free tow in" if you use their shop. Bill

Nice rig. Bill

This is what Remco has to say about it. You will need to make up your mind if the risk is worth it. Bill http://www.remcoindustries.com/Towing/Store.php Notes Towable as is with speed and/or distance restrictions. Please see Owner's Manual for confirmation and procedures. It is not recommended to tow this vehicle over 65MPH When towing for an extended period of time, start the vehicle as often as possible and allow it to run for five minutes to prevent battery drain. Officially from both Honda and REMCO the vehicle is not towable. However, we at Remco have a large number of customers who are flat-towing that vehicle behind their Motor Home and they are not having any issues. Follow the "Emergency Towing" procedures in the owner's manual to a "T" except ignore the restrictions and follow those procedures each and every time you tow. NOTE: If you choose tow your Honda, and have any damage to the Transmission as a result, you will have to pay for that expense out of pocket. It is nothing that Honda or Remco will warranty. Also, it should be noted that Remco sells no aftermarket product (Lube Pump or otherwise) to make this car towable.

Can you hold down the switch that tyes the batteries together and try to start it? It does sound like a low battery, loose/ corroded connection or bad ground. Bill

I am more in the Blue Ox camp as I like that when I am not towing the car it is hard to see it is a toad as the tow bar stays on the coach and not the front of the car or truck. http://blueox.com/recreational-commercial-flat-towing/ I added the led lights to my tail lights so there is no electrical connection to my CR-V electrical system. You will also need a auxiliary braking system. "what we do to the truck to tow it." I would look in the owner's manual under recreational towing. I think it is in section 4-56. Bill

Welcome to the forum. Yes your coach may be rated for 30K but double check what your receiver on the coach is rated for. Bill

I changed the bushings on my 2003 38N and it did help with sway but that won't fix play in the steering. There is going to be some play. I would contact Freightliner and see what the allowable limits are.Here's a link to what I posted when I did mine. http://community.fmca.com/topic/8004-sway-bar-bushings-bad/

Look at Summit Racing they have a good selection of heat barriers. https://www.summitracing.com/search/part-type/heat-barrier-and-sound-deadening-mats?SortBy=Default&SortOrder=Ascending&tw=heat bar&sw=Heat Barrier and Sound Deadening Mats Carl, I was just reminding him to do a good quality, self inspection but yes I like cashews. Bill

Earlier this month when we were caravaning (20 coaches) up to the FMCA 6 State rally in Shawnee Ok. one member had a problem with his Jeep. They were 2 coaches ahead and I was able to see first hand the "Death Wobble" it was pretty impressive. It turns out he had done the upgrade but didn't set it up properly before he started out that morning. Fortunately he was able to pull over and fix the problem. Having seen the Death Wobble first hand I think it is more of a Death Through, I am amazed it didn't damage the car or the tow bar. I am glad they are geting the fix out there for the owners. Bill

You will be having lots of fun, trying out a new toad seeing how the coach runs with full boost again and getting to watch a new gauge. Let me know what the EGT's look like. I do let it cool down but I am more concerned with letting the turbo cool so the residual heat won't coke (burn) the oil in the lines and end up blocking them. When you finish your test run give it a good inspection to make shure everything looks good wires tied up securely and you haven't lost any nut's. Bill

Rich, One of the reasons I run Rotella T-6 is to help protect the turbo. I feel it will get to the turbo faster than conventional oil and give more protection in the higher temperatures experienced in the turbo. I think the cracking exhaust manifolds are more of a bad design problem. Yes large heat cycles can make the problem worse. I let my EGT temps drop below 400 degrees before shutting it down. If you have a EGT gage you can see the wide swing in temperature, say from climbing a hill to costing down the other side. If you look at the old manifold compared to the new one you can see how it was beefed up to help fix the problem. Bill

I think you should pull the hose off and use your tubing mike measure the wall thickness of the water pipes you are looking to replace. 12 ga would be excessively heavy and expensive for that application. It just needs to hold more pressure than the rubber line. You buy the kit and send it and I will wrap the exhaust and manifold. I need the "common rail" kit Bill

That is good news. Bill

I just tried this. open ed a new instance of FMCA home page the clicked on the dropdown menu for forums. This time I got to the forums but the big red message was still at the top. So progress has been made, just a little housekeeping left. Bill

Well I have a problem because I still think of tubing in aircraft terms. So I had to go look up how thick 12 ga was. That is some thick tubing at .109 wall thickness. I would think stainless tubing around .020- .025 would work for your application. Bill

Interesting, When I go to the main FMCA site and click on "forums" it says they are down and won't let me in. I had an email notification and followed the link in the email and got in. Bill

Realistically if you flush the tanks well it shouldn't be that bad. Bill

Welcome to the forum. Look at this. https://thormotorcoach.com/media/documents/2006_Damon___Daybreak_Owners_Manual.pdf Bill