wildebill308

I like simple I use a bungee from the door to the mire support. Bill

Wayne, That sounds like a plan. If it is staying put you shouldn't have any problems. This is a simple repair I doubt you need a new base. Never waste beer money. I removed the opisat side screw and it was tight but didn't need heat. Just remember it is in aluminum and you can strip the threads. Even if you did the repair is simple. Ray, hold my beer and hand me that rosebud torch I can have this screw hot in 10 seconds, so what if you need to repaint the front of the coach. Bill

With a flame you are going to damage the paint. With the electric soldering iron you are just applying heat to the set screw and not likely to damage the paint. http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INSRIT?PMAKA=328-1244&cm_mmc=SEM-_-GGL-_-PLA-_-NA&003=18299132&010=328-1244&mkwid=s|dc&pcrid=43172597894&gclid=Cj0KEQjw6vquBRCow62uo-_J_YYBEiQAMO6HigvAy8FG2l8gFftV0bntwEXh-O6T--xcJAg-8zdszM0aAin88P8HAQ Bill

That is why I said to use a electric solder iron as you can apply heat to the screw only. A hand held torch is a little less discriminate. Bill

Wayne, Finally got around to finishing my repair of the allen screw on my mirror. Going back to your first post, yes the allen screw has a type of Locktite on it. I would try backing it out first. you might try a little penetrating oil to. When you get home or where you can work on it you might try heating it with a electric soldering iron. just hold the tip to the center of the screw. I took the screw out of the other side to check it out. it came out but needed a fair amount of force. As I posted earlier the threads and hole size were beyond what a helicoil would repair. I went with a 1/2 -13. The only problem was finding a bottom or plug tap, all the taps I could find were start taps with a long lead. The problem is I couldn't get the tap threads all the way through the hole. The long lead hit the shaft of the mirror I was able to move the shaft and the plastic part up but couldn't get it through. I ended up cutting the lead off a start tap to finish the thread job. Simple job ended up taking a couple days instead of 30 min. One thing I found was the screw that was screwed up was half the length of the one on the other side. I wonder how that happened. Good luck on your project, I know exactly how frustrating it is having a mirror not stay put. Bill

This was per the instructions from EZ Pass. Pleas show me what facts you have for your statement. What does the toll I payed before I got the EZ-Pass have to do with anything? Most people know that EZ-PASS is not valid in Texas. Bill

You can always check the date of the post. Most of the newer post are toward the top of the forum while older post tend to drop down and finally off the top page. Bill

1,"What happens is as you build up boost pressure the wastegate on engine will open and dump excess exhaust out the exhaust pipe. By a preset value set on the wastegate and opening of wastegate at said value this controls the speed of engine." Boost pressure has no direct control over engine speed. 2, "Adjustments made to the actuator arm to keep more pressure on wastegate from opening above engine spec's again will only cause damage to your engine." Perhaps if you went crazy. But how do you explain that Cummins uses higher boost pressure to make more hp on some applications with no damage. I think 40 psi is the upper limit. Above that you would need a bigger CAC to cool the air or you don't get the benefit of the higher boost. Bill

Dave, Carl that post is a year old. My last post was on 23 September 2014 - 09:50 AM. Bill

Try what???? Bill

Interesting my Banks IQ reads the transmission temps. I wonder why the scan gage can't read them. I think they plug into the same port. Have you talked to the Scan Guage teck support? I would talk to your local Allison shop or call Allison teck support. Do you have this link? http://www.allisontransmission.com/parts-service/my-transmission Bill

The instructions that came with my EZ PAS was to mount the motorhome one to the left of center about 6 in down. The car was to the right of center behind the rearview mire. I got mine in New Hampshire in June. One for the Motorhome and one for the car. I keep the one in the car in the protective bag when towing so it cant be read. I was motivated after paying full price on the George Washington bridge $76.00. It has been thoroughly tested and have had no problems. Bill

I don't have personal experience with the 5Star but have read good reports. Look at what Banks has to offer to. http://5startuning.com/got-a-v10-rv/ http://bankspower.com/products/show/342/59 http://bankspower.com/app/index/22# Bill

One thing I did to stabilize my mirror was to install a plastic wire tie around the bottom probably where you have the shims. I used a fairly heavy tie and pulled it with vise grips and pushed the lock to get it as tight as I could. It slowed down the vibration and helped to keep it in place. Bill

I just happen to be working on a similar problem today. My right side mirror kept vibrating out of position. I found that some one in the past had totally striped the set screw. It was so bad it wouldn't come out just spin in the hole. The comment about using a impact may cause more damage than help. I would only try backing it out. The part is made of soft aluminum. I was going to use a Helicoil type repair but the threads and the hole were past that. I am going to the next size allen screw. Bill

You might like to read this thread. http://www.irv2.com/forums/f123/cummins-isl-400-hp-power-chip-installation-109573.html Bill

I wouldn't trust the strength of the bond between the rubber and the sub structure. You already have about 40 holes in your roof that you need to inspect and reseal as needed. So why the reluctance to drill more holes? Bill

I have heard that "with a stock engine, EGT is not going to be an issue" from several people, so on the last trip I set my tuner to 1 which is the stock tune from Cummins. Running in the hills in eastern Tennessee I was seeing quite high temps up to 1400 degrees briefly. That is warmer than I like. I have a warning buzzer set at 1375 in case I don't notice temps climbing. I have a Banks IQ and am running a Banks Economind diesel tuner with their pyrometer to monitor exhaust temps. I think if you don't have a good pyrometer to monitor exhaust temps you are probably running hotter than you think. Bill

Brett do Silverleaf and Scan Gauge D allow you to monitor EGT? Bill

When are you going to drive again? I recommend keeping your rpm up on a steep hill to keep your EGT temps and engine temps down. Do you have an EGT gauge? You told us what your boost was so you have a boost gage. I am a firm believer in knowing what is going on back there in the engine compartment. Bill

Did you call the one in Fort Worth? I had a problem with my 7500 when I was buying my coach. They had to replace the radiator because silica crystals had plugged it up. So I recommend a good low silica antifreeze. Hear is a good video on changing your coolant. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0LB5ZhvhXas Bill

I would call Allison and give them your serial number and see what they say. I have done it on a Ford and on a Chevrolet but haven't looked at a 2000MH. Bill

I was re reading this thread. I don't think you have a problem 25-30 boost is about all you are going to get in a stock set up. Not picking on you because we all have to learn what to expect when driving. I think you are OK to go have fun. You might experiment with manual downshifting when you start to slow on a steep hill. Keep your rpm up to 2000-2200 this will also reduce your chances of overheating. The problem is the old weight to horsepower ratio. You are driving a big heavy coach compared to your car. By the way please add your coach to your signature it will help get better answers. Bill

I like how you think Herman. Bill

Look at the information hear on the Splendide web site http://www.splendide.com/support.htm You can call them and see if they have any ideas. Bill