kaypsmith

On the front being ugly where the shield was removed, you might want to talk with a local sign shop about covering it with vinyl wrap. I used it on the entire bus, have had many compliments. It was a lot less expensive than having the bus repainted, expected life expectancy, 10 years.

Tiffin is a great line, but dealership relations is of utmost importance. When buying, as long as the DP is within your budget, I would highly recommend going that direction because of ride and handling abilities. Also you should be informed that in mountainous terrain the ability to climb hills with the diesel is quiet a bit better, as well as the unit if equipped with a "jake" brake is very handy for descent. The diesel unit requires less maintenance than a gasser, although it is more expensive than gas due to the amount of oil and other liquids. The diesel can sit much longer than gas because diesel will last much longer than gasoline without going bad. Good luck with whatever you decide, and welcome to the world of motorhoming.

I put up with Hughesnet, formerly Direcpc for 14 years. An in motion dish can be gotten for enough money, but the most economical system is to use the cell phone providers, Verizon, or ATT, and some more come to mind. Anywhere your cell phone works the MiFi, that is the Verizon version, not sure what others call theirs. There are also signal boosters available that can greatly enhance the service inside your motorhome, these work for the cell phones also, as it is just a repeating device.

Thanks again tireman9, I purchased a stall mat from tractor supply, and cut it up in 12X18, and 18X18 pads, I use them for leveling and also always park with at least one under each tire to help keep the tire separated from the ground elements. Kay

I don't think the antifreeze is any good if the "ice cubes" are pink. L.O.L.

Anywhere on the roof that you can easily run the coax to it. It can be mounted on the side of the coach with the base at the roof line, all it needs is an unobstructed view of the sky.

jjday, This is not an ad for, nor an endorsement for the company, but I have had success in getting parts from them: Bob's Rv's Used Parts & Sales (386) 454-5733 23486 S US Highway 441 High Springs, FL 32643 They have a pretty good selection, as they are located just off I-75 in Fl., where many motorhomes die. Good luck hunting.

Ouch! Herman, hope you radiator is less expensive and can be repaired than mine. I had to have one of two rebuilt on mine in January this year, cost was $2104.00 and I did all labor for r&r.

Most motorhomes use 12 volt lighting, therefore the fact that the 50 amp shore power being correct probably has no bearing on lights dimming. How old are the house batteries? This is where I would start looking.

What length is the Monaco Diplomat? Most that I have seen have had two roof airs on top. if yours does, is the second one original, and if so what size is it. Most likely they were matched at the factory, just a thought.

Carl, the rubber gasket is designed to stay in place with a locking strip which is inserted into the gasket after the windshield has been fitted into the gasket. Here is a youtube link that shows the whole process. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8yuRkAuxdG0 Some modifications to the front cap by an experienced fiberglass repairer might be in order, most RV body shops are capable of this type repair. . The newer way of installing a windshield does use windshield adhesive, but the cap is designed for this type installation.

RSTICK2, welcome to the forum. Does your coach have 3 point leveling? Some with 3 point have had this problem due to the excessive flexing caused by the one leveler being placed in the middle on the front. If, this is the problem, you can use leveling blocks under the front wheels to help relieve some of the stress caused by leveling. I don't think that rubber gaskets are normally glued in. Hope Thor will step up and help, but I wouldn't be surprised if they don't. Good luck, Kay

I use the Wingard Answer, It is larger than the tailgater, and you have to set the elevation manually, after that you install the coax from the receiver to the dish, plug the power cable to a 12 volt outlet. "I carry a portable power booster with me" because many times the coax will have to be stretched a good distance from the coach. When 12 volts is supplied, the dish starts turning left then right a full 360 degree, and will lock on a signal if there is one to lock on, if the unit rotates 360 more than twice, I will reset the elevation and try again. Never takes more than three minutes to set up. Also it is important that there is a clear path in the direction for the satellite. I do use Direct, but you can specify which service, and have worked with many on Dish for others. One other thing comes to mind, I helped get 5 other campers this past weekend set up, many are not aware that the receiver must be told through the menu on the receiver what kind of dish that is connected, if it is set for one type, and you use another, the system will never work correctly. I know most of my fellow FMCA members know these things, but there are new owners coming online daily that just have not been taught the correct method yet. Good luck finding a unit that will work for you. Kay

I have Sumitimo's on the bus, have had no problem.

To corroborate Tiremans analogies, here is an article well worth reading. http://www.truckinginfo.com/article/story/2010/01/mismatched-duals.aspx

Take a look at this ad, it is for accuride but read further into the ad, claims to have budd style which is (stud pilot). http://www.ebay.com/itm/22-5-X-8-25-ACCURIDE-ALCOA-STYLE-POLISHED-ALUM-WHEELS-MOTORHOME-RV-TRAILER-/231286748761?hash=item35d9c3b659&vxp=mtr

I don't believe that fuse extender will work. The fuse tapper will work. As Brett suggested, an inline fuse holder, fuse tapper or spade clip crimped onto the end of a wire plugged into the hot side of the current fuse holder, then the other end of that same wire attached to a single throw switch, "can be a 3 pole single throw", another wire from the switch to the inline fuse holder, then back to the other side of the fuse holder. This of course will be times three, since there are three fuses to be removed. Make sure the wire extenders are of the correct amperage, and the 3 pole single throw switch is sufficient for the highest amperage fuse. Just google automotive fuse extenders. Hope you can find the premade kit, it will be simpler. It really does not matter which side of the switch the fuse holder is attached, since all you are doing is opening the circuits.

Can you use crimp on male spade connectors?

This one will work: http://www.ebay.com/itm/6-3-8-1-25-foot-50-amp-RV-Power-Cord-w-Marinco-Twist-Lock-Locking-Connector-/311403178203?hash=item48811368db&vxp=mtr

One would need to know if the holding tank is directly below the toilet. If it is, should be no problem at all. If not, the replacement to mechanical would not be likely, as most electric ones were placed there because there would not be a way to get the waste to the holding tank.

While putting together my coach, I found that one can buy 15 to 45 foot 50 amp extensions on ebay at some great prices. I used a fifteen foot, cut the female end off, wired it directly into the transfer switch, leaving the fifteen feet to be rolled up, I also carry an additional 15 foot, and a 30 foot extension neatly rolled in an adjoining bay.

Take a look on e-bay, search 22.5 aluminum rims. I found several stud piloted, both used, and polished used.

Is it possible that you have a fuse blown to the unit, or possibly a dead battery? My instant hot water, not an Atwood, had one D cell battery that required replacing about once yearly. Atwood is probably on 12 volts, so I would check for a possibly blown fuse. These units use voltage to light.

Reminds me of Robin Williams "RV." Glad no one was injured.

How many even try to back 4 down? Also you can use a lock out if you really need to back up.