kaypsmith

Actually there is a lot of money in some of those video games, but only if one learns how to write them. It is so sad these days to see our youth glued to their games and have no interest in learning what makes them happen. And as a result we are getting no new talent to help make the world go round, and no good technicians being trained to make necessary repairs to our favorite toys.

Very interesting concept, I would love to know how much they cost.

What make and model # is the residential fridge? Look inside the door of the fridge and let us know what the maximum load in amps is the fridge. This will help in determining how much load is on the inverter. Maximum load is not what determines the actual load of the fridge but will give a baseline for load purposes.

Maybe banks do not, I haven't used a bank for years because of their unwillingness to care about their customers. I use a credit union, and they do offer security on their debit cards, all may not, but the one that I use does, and that peace of mind means much to me. As for the TCS card, thanks for the offer and I hope it works out well for many.

Welcome to the forum. Don't know what type motorhome you have, that info will help others to give their best answer. I personally like my M&G, proportional braking and hooked right into the air brake system on my coach. If you do not have air brakes, their system can develop it's own air with an added on pump.

What name brand and model# residential fridge do you have?

Wish I had taken pictures when I replaced this past spring. I used 14 feet of scaffolding, a pulley attached to a 2X 10 board at top of scaffolding, rope in the pulley, pulled the new unit up with rope, slid another board under the AC across the scaffold and roof of the coach, pulled the old unit off of mounting point, slid the new uniting place and lowered the old unit to ground with the same. And as Brett said a ladder can be used as well. Also, you could drive the coach to a location with a forklift and have the forklift set the new unit on the roof, they may be nice enough to let you make the exchange at their location, or simply tie the new unit while still on pallet to the old unit. Just a few ideas to help get your brain in gear. The units are very easy to make an exchange. I'm fortunate to have a Bobcat at my disposal but actually preferred using the scaffold.

Karl, it ain't. better start over! Carl it isn't the straws he's talkin about, it is the straw CLEANER, sorry it's too early to talk about it anyway. LOL!

Here you go! https://www.unlimitedtogo.com/ Sorry Carl, the plan above is the Togo plan, the one referred to above is an ATT plan, here it is. https://www.rvmobileinternet.com/att-360-yr-rv-unlimited-data-plan-now-available-with-togo-roadlink-c2/

Check out this website. https://www.millsupply.com/stepvan-parts/brake-hardware-sv/freightliner-jd-oshkosh-stepvan-brake-parts/john-deere-oshkosh-brake-parts/

HUH? I've used edit for years and never seen it go away, unless it contained something that Brett didn't like.

Prevost is not a motorhome, it is a bus shell, other companies use their shell to convert to a motorhome, and there are several of those out there, and most all of them are excellent. A bus shell from Prevost or MCI at present cost between $500,000.00 and $800,000.00 depending on how it is set up at the factory, and no MH components are included in these cost's. Both companies are second to none in their quality, service, and safety. Newel is also excellent quality from the factory, although they do not use a bus shell, the shell is as close to the bus quality as can be found. With this superb quality comes a matching price tag. If you and your coach are registered with these companies, there is a 24/7 hotline provided that really works.

A cash advance is a cash ADVANCE, it simply means that in the event you need cash, you can use the card to get up to $200.00, like an emergency perhaps. You will billed on the first statement that comes after the advance is used, if never, then you will never be billed.

How old are the batteries on the other side? I know there is more expense, but best solution is to change those batteries to agm.

Best practice is to unhook the negative cable first always, less chance of any backfeed through sensitive electronic equipment, doesn't happen often but could really be a gotcha!!

Do you mean like this? https://www.amazon.com/Endoscope-Borescope-Inspection-Waterproof-Retriever/dp/B078Z94492/ref=pd_zg_rss_nr_p_photo_7 Looks cheap enough, and attaches to your smart phone.

Sorry for the misunderstanding, can you get one of those snake type cameras to go far enough back into area where the coax separated. If so, an improvised tool to hold the coax end in place while a similar tool to force the new coax on the new camera to push back together. Usually a stiff wire can be formed to make this happen.

If this not stated in the original policy, or an addendum added to the original, it would not be legal. This is why one should read the fine print in any and all contracts. Ray, this incident would be quite different from the FMCA contract because the limit is shown to the end user and obviously agreed on by the member that there is a $500.00 limit imposed up front. And just maybe the coach net contract does impose a 2 hour limit and all additional charges are passed onto the consumer? Again, read the contract!

If the coaxial cable is good, why remove it? Simply unplug the connection and replace the camera. You can use an ohm meter to make sure the coax is good.

If you are use two or more internet providers, you could utilize a load balancing router to combine the multiple carriers. This way you can get up to your data limits on all combined carriers. TPLink makes a great little unit to do this for less than $60.00.

I can't that say backflushing is a bad idea, as I have never done before, just in over 30 years of camping. I do as you said let both the black and grey tank valves remain closed even on a sewer until they both reach about 75%, then release black first until empty, I leave the black valve open and release the grey tank, I don't really consider this backflushing because to backflush I feel that I would need to cap the drain exit, release the grey into the black, then put up with the mess of uncapping and rehooking the drain hose. But nonetheless I feel that I am washing the drain hose well the way that I do it. When I disconnect the drain hose at the coach end, I do have both valves closed at this time and the drain end of the hose still in the sewer drain, I raise the coach end high enough that no waste water can come back onto me or the campsite, then start to coil the drain hose and continue to coil until I reach the sewer end and remove the elbow then connect the drain end to the fill end, this keeps any smell inside the hose and varmits out. Like Carl, I add about half an ounce of Dawn dish detergent to a gallon of hot water poured into each toilet, then travel. I flush a couple ounces of Calgon down about once a month along with an ounce of baking soda, best odor elimination that I have found yet. Haven't had a clogged toilet in three different MH's over 30+ years, may happen tomorrow, but I hope not. Oh, just reread your last post and want to add this little tidbit. I was in Pigeon Forge a few years back, a good looking coach parked right beside us and with the owner of the same I became acquainted, very nice people visiting from Florida and they were the CG host of a park that I am very familiar with. He had four daughters with soninlaws and seven grandchildren visiting these poor people, not all stayed in the coach at night but in and out all day. Well the third day, he came over with near tears in his eyes asking for help, we flushed that black tank for a looooooooooooong period of time before getting all the TP out of there. He did tell me that he would not leave the valve open while on sewer again. Sorry, just couldn't resist.

Sounds like the dreaded TP mound, this is when some people don't keep enough liquid in the black tank and drop TP down the toilet and it builds a mound directly below the toilet. Best solution is to not leave the waste valve open to the black tank, let it accumulate to at least 50% before dumping.

Where in relationship is the toilet sitting to the black waste holding tank? If this is not a vacu flush, or macerator toilet, it should be sitting directly above it. If you hold the pedal down and shine a flashlight down the opening, what do you see? I assume that the master bath is near the rear of the coach and the 1/2 bath is just forward of the drive axel.

This does appear to be the case, try pushing the switch to the cover position, if the motor is working, the motor should move closer to the proper location so that the screws can be reinserted. There is probably a side panel that can be removed to gain access to the area that needs repair.

Be sure to insert hose all the way to bottom of tank since you are not moving and mixing the fuel, that's where the water and other contaminates settle to. I use the mason jar test also, but wait a few minutes for the fuel to settle, then check the bottom of the jar for beads of water that may settle.