kaypsmith

Glad u corrected that, I was starting to worry, my wife can't keep her nose out of Facebook, and I aint gonna get NO MORE BABIES!

Please read the OP, doctor will not give more than a 30 day supply without a revisit TO THE DOCTOR!

Carl, manifold gasket leaking could cause OP's problem! Depends on how bad the leak is.

Joe, this reminds me of a trip that I took many years age in the old Country Coach. I was traveling to Florida to meet up with Sue, I had just purchased my first GPS, only other traveling with me was an old Yorkie (dog) named Toby. I had set the GPS to shortest route (big mistake), it took me down an old dirt pigtrail that finally turned to old gravel road, full of potholes and sharp turns. I had one of those coffee makers that hangs under the counter, the pot fit so well that we had always traveled with it in the CM. Well just made one of those unexpected 85 degree turns with a pothole all the way across the road, the coach hit bottom and Toby and I hit our heads on the ceiling, the coffee pot came out of the maker, hit on the dinette just below and it sounded like an explosion, poor Toby came to me got into my lap, all I could do was to stop the coach in the road, console the poor dog for at least fifteen minutes.

I don't know what insurance that you have, but you may check with them to find out if you are in a network, if so they may advise how to see a different doctor while traveling. My wife has a brother that resides in Florida about 50% of the time and with us in Alabama the other 50%, he is on Florida Medicaid and they have met our needs in getting his meds while he is here.

Andy, some of those engines back then had fiber gears at the bottom of the distributer and were prone to get damaged causing the engine to not crank also.

Take a look at these. https://bargoosebedding.com/products/sofa-sleeper-sheets?variant=28587674599458&currency=USD&utm_campaign=gs-2020-01-30&utm_source=google&utm_medium=smart_campaign&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIkvDq8du76AIVEY_ICh33zQyKEAQYBSABEgJen_D_BwE Or have my wife teach you how to use flat sheets and tuck them so that they will stay in place. After forty years in nursing homes that never used fitted sheets, she is pretty good at it, LOL I know that the one listed in my link is 59 wide but that little amount will not matter.

Those ballast/resistors were there because the coil that was being used was a six volt coil, too many were still in the supply chain and were still being put there in certain applications to get rid of them. Does the system still use points? Probably does, if so check the rotary button, make sure that it doesn't have a damaged contact point at the end, and have someone try to crank at night with you looking at the distributor cap watching for tale tale signs of arching. One could have faulty broken plug wires on those old guys, or even cracked spark plugs. If spraying a little shot of starting fluid directly into the carburetor, does it crank then go dead? Have you taken a spark plug out and checked for excess gas (fuel) on the plug, if yes then you may have a flooded condition and it sure wont run in this condition. If flooded, then suspect a stuck float in the carburetor. PM me and I will give you my cell #. Rich is excellent with these type problems, don't be afraid to reach out for one on one advise.

Check to see how many amps the battery minder is rated, if less than 8 amps forget it but 8 or more and you have access to enough sunlight, this could be a very good thing. $200.00 and up usually is large enough to keep up with most parasitic loads.

When you are tired of poking at the fuel system, it is beginning so sound as though it is time for a professional valve adjustment. Many times with these smaller engines, the valve adjustment is the answer, especially when there are cold and warmer days involved. Also coil packs do act strangely also, just a couple of other things that are sometimes overlooked.

If you can get to them, try cleaning the wires and wire terminals to the proximity switches with an electrical contact cleaner and then replace them one at a time. Most RV's with this type switches use ground at the tank to activate the switch, and water on the wire connection can give a false reading.

5.9 is a very common engine in older school busses, there are lots of these around very cheap. Most school systems keep them in excellent condition.

PM me a mailing address, I will mail you a few, black is the only color that I buy, and have several hundred on hand at any given time, 4 inch to 48 inch.

As I have stated on several posts, the black ties are naturally UV tolerant (black is the only color that the UV will not decay. I personally like the method of taking the plate to a vinyl sign shop and have them duplicate the egg in peel and stick vinyl, no holes to drill or wire ties to mess with. Have a couple extra made so that when the old one looks bad (usually about 7 to 10 years) you will already have a replacement. They cost as little as fifteen bucks to twenty five and extra are normally 2 or 3 each when ordered at the same time. Bill, that looks great.

Anyone looking for brighter headlights? Over the years, I have found many RV’ers looking for ways to make their headlamps brighter. I have been experimenting with the newer style LED headlamps and have found them to be very effective. I started with the my 2000 Jeep Wrangler, original halogen headlamps were pretty good, but I wanted brighter. I recently ordered a set of the halo style projection 7 inch round to replace the halogens. They came in a few days ago and I was in a hurry to get them installed. I did not take the time to plug up the halos but that night I took for a test drive and was very disappointed because while being able to see for seemingly miles ahead the up close was very disappointing. I then hooked up the halos and viola, up close became very good also. I have been doing a lot of research and have found that one can order almost any style and size, and have placed an order for the coach. By the way, the ones that I have found thus far will work on ten to sixty volts DC, meaning that I can now run the headlamps on my coach without a stepdown resistor or an equalizer, they are the same brightness at ten volts as they are at 28.8, my coach is a 24 volt system, bulbs will be just as bright with 10+ volts as they are at 24+. Just thought that everyone should know, as many have been wondering. By the way, the lights do require a good ground to work at all, so please don’t think that these are a replacement for a good grounding system. I have ordered a set for the coach and will be installing very, I will post the results as soon as this happens. Anyone looking for brighter headlights.docx

Unfortunately the governor closed all Alabama beaches today.

He correct, you should never completely drain the separator, there is no need to completely drain it. But you should follow the manual that came with the coach. Most systems have a manual pump to prime the fuel system and it should be used in conjunction with dumping some fuel from the system if possible. The water will drop to the bottom of the separator, let the water out only then refill the separator.

I've turned the copper slug over in the old Chevrolet starter solenoids to remedy starter issues that were pretty much as described by this post. Hope the new starter includes a new solenoid. If the new starter does not fix the problem then moving the engine flywheel to another location is the only other thing to do. I don't believe that new brushes is the issue since the starter spins either on bench or in the genny and the voltage remains constant.

It is great that you are cautious. Sure sounds more like the Bendix is just not kicking into the flywheel or teeth are missing from the flywheel. I looked up your starter and it looks as though the solenoid is made on top of the starter. Please let us know if this is true, or the Bendix is it only activated by spinning the starter.

If you can at least turn the engine just a little, then try starting with the starter. It has been many years since I have seen a couple of teeth missing from the flywheel, but I have seen that to happen before.

Herman, sit the clocks outside under a shelter, one of the frequencies will get to them sooner or later.

The purge valve on the air dryer went bad (failed to close) was the most frustrating moments I have to remember. The leak was so great that the air governor failed to let air build. I had to find an external air compressor that would start the fill process before I could hear the dryer letting air escape. Air can certainly be frustrating to trouble shoot sometimes.

If you can get 4 corner weights is even better for getting the pressures correct. The 60/40 is recommended in the event that four corner weight can not be obtained. The tire bulge is going to be there with a radial tire, I wish that I could get my wife to understand that, but that is another story. Welcome to the world of motorhomes, it's a real experience after 5ers or other types of TT's. We love the travel convenience of our motorhome, DW usually cooks while traveling and that's hard to do in a trailer. Please note that I am not downgrading TT's, most of us have been there at some point, just pointing why we love the MH.

I have the GS Pilot/Flying J card also. I've had very good luck with it also, just recently e-mailed for a replacement card because the old card was giving errors at the pump, new card came in the mail and had to be activated, no further problems with the new card.

By all means, don't let the onions wash away, couldn,t stand a year without Cidalia onions, LOL! Good luck finding the hot no start problem.