kaypsmith

Still trying to put a name to a FMCA placard #, search tells me nothing, about where to look for this.

Not sure if this thread was intended for the TT section or not, but I have a response intended for TT's. I'm reasonably sure that there is also a speed rating on TT tires, and I would bet that it is not 80+ MPH, I have fifth wheelers especially pass me on highways that I usually drive 65 to 70 on, some are moving 80+ MPH I feel pretty sure because they pass like I'm sitting still. Many times I pass them on the side of the road with a blown tire.

If the switch is not the problem, start looking for a fuse in the 12 volt system, normally found in the coach battery compartment, some of can be confused with a relay because some are circuit breakers and resemble relays.

I like FMCA, go here as often as possible because of the friendly atmosphere. If I don't find an answer to a problem that I might have here, then I use Google. Been on other snobby site, and didn't care to go back.

Yes it can be repaired, I would opt for an inside patch, no plug. You may be lucky and have a real short screw that did not penetrate the air chamber, for safety sake, make sure that whomever removes it is prepared to fix it before removing it.

Rich has very good points. But for answering your question about settings, I would go for half load, then test.

Glad you found the problem, but at your earliest convenience, I would move that fridge out of the way and replace those too long for the correct size if for nothing else, safety sake. I notice that a poster had commented on replacing the 15 amp gfi for a 20 amp or 25 amp, gfi does not look for amperage, only difference of load between hot and neutral, anything over 4 milliamps will trip gfi, not amperage, if over amperage the circuit breaker at the breaker box will trip not the gfi. And as stated by yourself, when in doubt, check it out, never take electricity for granted.

The surge hydraulic brakes on Acme and several including U-Haul work great, and I would not cheap out, your 35 footer in all probability will not stop any shorter than a 40 or 40+ footer either. The braking systems are installed on a MH proportionately to their size, so assuming that shorter is better for a MH is not a good assumption. Also maintenance of brakes will not break the bank for anyone that can afford a MH.

The isolater is a diode inside the combiner. The combiner is a sealed unit, ususally black rubber looking, and as described above several wires in and several out. The primary purpose is to combine the turn signal on the coach with the appropriate brake light on the trailer, if your trailer harness plug has more than four wires, there will not be one on your coach.

Good point, and this would my first suspect.

On the floor below the picture! Seriously, air box cover.

Very true! It would be hard to make a set of contacts that will withstand that sudden transfer under load.

What Bill is speaking of is 96% labor, and with an assembly line, slowing down production is very costly. Tinning and swaging all ends would be great, and Loctite on all screws would help. Airplane standards with airplane quality controls would be wonderful, but until that happens, we must all take the little amount of time to be diligent and keep our machinery safe. In most cases, finding the tools to add 1/4 turn on those screws will take longer than actually doing the maintenance. If NASA ever gets involved, those three hundred thousand coaches will actually cost $500,000.00 and no feel good discounts.

Our old two stroke Detroits still need to use standard weight, 30 or 40. I was told by a modern day mechanic that 15/40 would work just fine, so I moved to 15/40 on the next oil change, what a mistake, oil leaks were so bad that I was adding a gallon every 500 miles, the spots became puddles, so I went back to straight 30 in winter 40 in summer. I was not allowed to hang a picture of the bus on the wall while using multi viscosity, DW was mopping the floor too often.

An analytical mind never slows down, they just become more analytical!

Richard, that is a good looking bus convert. I do have a question or two, one, does this unit have a equalizer on the 24 volt system, if not there are inverters that use 24 volt, My coach does have an equalizer, but it is a 1988 model. Having an equalizer means that you can pull from one 12 volt battery for powering a 12 volt system from your 24 volt, without damaging either battery because of excessive drain from pulling from only one, very handy in my case, and of course all lights are 24 volt except headlights, they are 12 volt, which makes them much easier to find replacements. If you notice most Prevosts has stacked all clearance lights one over one, that way the two are wired in series, so that 12 volt is used in the 24 volt system. There are many tricks that can be used in a convert to make life less difficult. My bus has a 24volt, 180 amp alternator, and since I do not use the bus air, I have a 5000 watt 240 volt inverter, which allows me to pull two roof airs right off the bus 24 volt system, just don't leave them running when the bus is not running. I did like to hear those old manual trannys shifting with an experienced driver, with the old 2 stroke detroits. My coach still has the Detroit 6v92, 335 HP with 1050 ft. lbs. @ 1600 rpm, it is a 4 speed Allison ht740 auto tranny, best fuel mileage is 68 to 72 mph, perfect for most interstates.

Wally is main receiver for dish network satellite tv, Joeys are the small receivers that depend on the wally. Direct calls their parent receiver a Genie, the small ones are daughters.

https://www.ebay.com/sch/sis.html?_nkw=SHURFLO MODEL 2088 422 174 RV CAMPER WATER PUMP 2 8 GPM 12V Check this one out, and wecome to the forum.

Have you tried moving the thermostat up and down a few times? Oxidation sometimes can cause inacuracy, just moving the dial will on occasion clear this condition for a little while. Yes the thermostat is the most likely culprit.

Not sure if this is a typo, or an actual statement, ON is not the correct position for a battery disconnect switch for long period parking, that switch should be in the OFF position to not allow drainage of your batteries. And as stated by others, there usually is some parasitic draw even in that position. You also state that it is not uncommon for your coach to sit 6 to 8 weeks without the batteries draining, is it possible that you normally plug into an electric source, and this time you didn't?

Joe, nickel kits on ebay, those valves are pretty standard at most box stores. If you buy the kit, will come with a new hose outlet to match. Sams club near me has a real good looking shower assembly, I used it in the bus, works great.

Just remember to remove the batteries after each use, can be placed in a zip lock bag and taped to the pump. I used one like that several times and didn't heed my own convictions, the batteries corroded and ruined the terminals. Pump does a fantastic job though until the corrosion set in.

Tell them that it's a new mandate by the EPA, increases fuel efficency by 100%. And by the way, great job on the tankless.

What is the actual opening size for the fridge? There may be more options than you think available in a residential fridge and the newer technology is nothing to be sneezed at.

While reading the post, I was also thinking about the roof vent, as Brett pointed out. Either in poor condition, maybe bent or some other reason. As mentioned in another post about whistling inside the coach, a deflector may be an answer. I have in the past made temporary ones out of very lightweight aluminum, or plasticore, "that's the stuff that cheap political signs are made of", can be attached to the roof with gorilla tape and usually driven as much as 50 miles before giving up, of course use some type of strap or rope to make sure that it doesn't blow off and hit another vehicle. The issue seems very much like back pressure in the fridge vent system.