jleamont

Norm, keep up the fight for replacements or some $$ back in your pocket. RVs are no different than most things in your life, you learn as you go. When you stop learning is when you should be concerned.

great story!!

I have considered buying a portable single burner for boiling water and for use outside. For the switch I cut open the hot side only the cord and connected it two the switch. The cord is very long and just plugs in under the counter.

Bill nailed it. When on inverter it beeps since it doesn't like the MSW inverter. So we turn off the power when not in use. I can run both burners on high but the performance isn't great. If you are trying to boil a pot of water and regular cooking on the other there are no issues. I got the counter top model for two reasons. First my plan (prior to the switch) was to remove it to use outside also. The other was for ventilation. I was concerned there would be a lack of space under it for it to properly breathe. That model sits on the vents, they are along the sides, front and rear, top side. I have a drawer under that we keep cooking utensils in and the space would have been very close. its not mounted, just press into the hole and it snaps in. Two years now no issues. I will say my interior temperature while cooking is a fraction of what it was with the gas burners this replaced, since we only use the coach in nice weather that was a huge plus. Again, thanks to Kay we use Magma induction cookware which has worked well for us.

If you zoom in to the right of the towel rack is the switch. Kay's idea!

Herman, here's a picture of my installation . I had to add an on/off switch, it doesn't like my MSW inverter. On the road I run the generator.

Five, propane is disappearing in the Industry, just not fast enough. I believe when products were made here or in a reputable country propane in an RV wasn't so bad. But the junk appliances now a days on propane is down right scary! I just read an article the other day where a guy turned on his refrigerator and it blew up, took the walls right out of his trailer and he got a chopper ride to the burn center. Very sad!! The last RV show I saw quite a few coaches with electric or Induction cooktops and NO propane on board. Very common amongst higher end coach builders.

you know he was about to say it...right? If you pull the tank and floor that bay you gain an incrediable amount of storage.

I was not happy with the thought of the Convection oven in our coach but after the first time I baked homemade biscuits in it I was sold! The gas oven in our last coach got much too hot on the bottom and no where else when baking. Like Herman I read the instructions and it worked perfectly. Our coach is an 02' with no gas oven.

Do tell why? I always come up I495 to I95 and north, I495 is a gamble but once on I95 its beautiful

DEJA VU, this seems familiar

Tireman and Brett brought up a good point on brake fluid, its one that is so often forgotten about. You also have to be careful with boiling points with different manufactures, the spec requirements are broad and some just make it in while others exceed it.

Norm, Welcome to the FMCA Forum! That would have made me call them back and ask for replacements or a heavy discount off of the price. I just put 6 tires on our coach, when I called to order them I asked for date codes no older than 6 months, as it turned out they were only around 8 weeks old (they were good at accommodating my request as they already had my size in stock and had to order me tires per my date code request). Maybe someone else will chime in but in my opinion you just lost 2 years of life on them.

Tom, me neither, only trailers to date for me with that handle. Both of our coaches had metal handles.

Daneast1, how long has it been since the radiator was cleaned? Can you see through the radiator if you maybe hang a lamp on the inside and try from the rear of the coach?

My only concern with the Brakemaster is its NOT fully proportional. Normally this is not a concern, however in a panic situation that could be the difference from avoiding the crash or becoming part of the crash scene. Think about it....You slam on the brakes on the coach, the ABS engages, the toad is set to apply only 25% it will push you. AF1 and M&G are both fully proportional, I slam on the coach brakes with either one and the toad responds exactly the same way. I am also not a fan of drilling holes in firewalls routing cables through an interior, stuff mounted to my brake pedal that my size 12 shoes could possibly bump and knock out of its setting is no good for me. For anyone that ever worked or cars and trucks can relate, there is enough stuff up under the dash on todays automobiles and trucks, when you need to access something for repair that's one more thing that will be in your way. Some new cars also have adjustable pedals, AF1 would be come a real nuisance with that set up.

Herman, sometimes they are on the inside . When I put my new ones on I made sure they were facing outwards on all but the rear inners.

I have heard of valve train failures from sitting before, just not on a CAT product. Navistar put out a service bulletin on the issue around 2006. They had a problem with the valves sticking in the valve guides, so the thought was to keep them moving. We had to go and start inventory weekly and let them run 15 minutes and shut them down to move the oil around. Which goes against the theory of a full warm up requirement.

Bill, I wont go over that bridge in a car let alone a coach . I go out of my way through the country to avoid that entire area as much as I can. EZPASS, if your coach is over a certain GVWR you now have to purchase a Commercial EZPASS. Found that out the hard way when it wouldn't ping at the booths. I called them and they were stumped that an RV could weigh so much. I guess some people don't get out much

Also an M&G system owner and love it! So simple and if your coach has air brakes it also the most cost effective. Keep it Simple and you wont have to fuss with it, the coach will keep you occupied with all of the other stuff that breaks I connect the air line to the front of the jeep and the breakaway tether and I'm done.

I pull into a CG, put the coach on high idle (with the cruise control) go and register, come out and crawl to the site, my gauge by then might move up to 400 but not common, usually it stays lower. When I get to the site and park, I fan the brake pedal to get the compressor to cut in, wait for it to build air and the dryer to purge, then I shut down. Since I have air leveling the more air the better it levels so I always start with full tanks. John, HEUI pump again on your CAT? that's odd! Were they leaking or not pumping?

On a good note I have never had fuel come out of the vent, so there is still room for expansion. It's not uncommon for me to fill up and the temps rise 30+ degrees, still not a drop.

DD69, agreed!! with his current car he is well within specs. I would also have it weighed. C's are notorious for being heavier than what they are rated. I would do it for piece of mind so you know what you are up against. Our C was over by 1000 on the drive and I believe 800 on the steer (trying to remember) Without our belongings. My friends Fleetwood Jamboree when the fresh tank was full he would lose steering if he was on the throttle pulling his car.

No, it's a tire casing life rule from what I was told. 5 years it has life left, At 7 what tread is on it is all you get no recapping.

You and me both! Apparently the mounting and bag size dictate the one needed. So you can either measure the bag or the mounting studs to determine what part number you have. I have actually considered carrying one or two with me and might swap them out in the next year or so.