desertdeals69

When I went to Auto Zone they had all the pictures and we just matched it up. It may not have been and LTD but another model but I remembered it was an 89 but there could be more than one year since they are not going to have a new motor design every year.

I think that having the color computer matched is better because it takes into account fading.

It came with the motor and the gearbox.

ISB The 1/2 inch fuel line from the pickup came in the kit with snap on connectors.

A balancing bead manufacturer sent me a set of beads to test. They sent the right weight for the size of tire. Have gone 2k miles in the last 2 weeks and they seem to do the job. It has been smooth up to 75 mph. Thats as fast as I have been.

We use the iPhone for trip routing. I think it is already on the phone. It even gives current traffic delays by changing the color on the route from blue to red and then to yellow. We were just on I 70 in Missouri.

I would try repairing the broken cable by using waterproof coax connectors. They have o-rings and are supposed to be water resistant. If the tv works then I would tape it with silicone mending tape.

If ride is the issue I would go with Michelins. Toyos are about half the price but have a little stiffer side wall because they are a truck tire. I have Michelins on the front and Toyos on the rear.

I can hear it running standing next to it outside but don't hear it inside the coach. I have the Air Dog with the filters as part of the unit. 1/2 inch fuel line from the tank and a 5/16 inch return line to the tank.

I think that is for national directors and committee members.

You might look at a Air Dog or FASS lift pump system, all you do is turn on the ignition and the electric pump does the rest.

Parallel, its a 12 volt system.

There are places where there are pot holes in pot holes.

Trager makes a small one. I bought one and it didn't work so I took it back and got another one and it didn't work either. Gave up on the idea went back to my propane one.

Nobody has mentioned how many current members would drop out if the membership is open to everyone. I'm thinking it could be quite a few.

We stay at Thunderbird in Monroe which is not too far from Bothell.

Good analogy. Some years ago at Perry, when I was the crew leader for family electric, I parked about 15 trailers across the road from my section. There were a couple of them that wanted to be close to their friends who had motorhomes. They were harder to park, partly because most of them don't know how to backup. I guess that is why many campgrounds advertise pull throughs. After they were all parked the big wigs came to see how they looked.

I would not consider that class c. When I changed engines on my last coach, which was a diesel pusher, all I had to do to fully access the engine and trans was to remove the rear door. That was a easy as removing the hood from a regular truck. Everything slid out the back. I replaced the mechanical Cummins for a electronic ISB and 4 speed Allison to a 6 speed.

This was intended for prospective buyers not criticism of the current owner.

Mine is hard wired and then goes to the Hughes Autoformer then to the breaker panel, all inside the compartment, no weather or theft concerns.

I use Surge Guard hard wired with remote readout.

I found ours was squeaking from the weather seal. I sprayed it with dry silicone and it quit.

If you hook your air correctly you do not effect the stock air brake system. There is an air relay valve and a pressure tank which is totally independent of the rear air brake system. With this system if the brake air line going to the toad is severed it has no effect on the coach braking system. The air pressure going to the toad is fully proportional.

I have used the screwdriver many times. Place your palm over the end of the handle and put your ear on the back of your hand. If the sound is coming from the compressor itself, probably the complete unit needs replacing. Replacing just the compressor is cost prohibitive.

I would take the shroud off and have it running and listen to the compressor with a stethoscope that mechanics use to determine where the noise is coming from. It may be something like a loose mount on the compressor or something else loose and rattling.