desertdeals69

You might look at a Air Dog or FASS lift pump system, all you do is turn on the ignition and the electric pump does the rest.

Parallel, its a 12 volt system.

There are places where there are pot holes in pot holes.

Trager makes a small one. I bought one and it didn't work so I took it back and got another one and it didn't work either. Gave up on the idea went back to my propane one.

Nobody has mentioned how many current members would drop out if the membership is open to everyone. I'm thinking it could be quite a few.

We stay at Thunderbird in Monroe which is not too far from Bothell.

Good analogy. Some years ago at Perry, when I was the crew leader for family electric, I parked about 15 trailers across the road from my section. There were a couple of them that wanted to be close to their friends who had motorhomes. They were harder to park, partly because most of them don't know how to backup. I guess that is why many campgrounds advertise pull throughs. After they were all parked the big wigs came to see how they looked.

I would not consider that class c. When I changed engines on my last coach, which was a diesel pusher, all I had to do to fully access the engine and trans was to remove the rear door. That was a easy as removing the hood from a regular truck. Everything slid out the back. I replaced the mechanical Cummins for a electronic ISB and 4 speed Allison to a 6 speed.

This was intended for prospective buyers not criticism of the current owner.

Mine is hard wired and then goes to the Hughes Autoformer then to the breaker panel, all inside the compartment, no weather or theft concerns.

I use Surge Guard hard wired with remote readout.

I found ours was squeaking from the weather seal. I sprayed it with dry silicone and it quit.

If you hook your air correctly you do not effect the stock air brake system. There is an air relay valve and a pressure tank which is totally independent of the rear air brake system. With this system if the brake air line going to the toad is severed it has no effect on the coach braking system. The air pressure going to the toad is fully proportional.

I have used the screwdriver many times. Place your palm over the end of the handle and put your ear on the back of your hand. If the sound is coming from the compressor itself, probably the complete unit needs replacing. Replacing just the compressor is cost prohibitive.

I would take the shroud off and have it running and listen to the compressor with a stethoscope that mechanics use to determine where the noise is coming from. It may be something like a loose mount on the compressor or something else loose and rattling.

Go to an auto parts store like Auto Zone and get a 89 Ford LTD drivers door window motor (If I remember correctly). They have the picture of it so you can match it up and it comes with the gear box. It was about $46.

Very good points.

By the time you check the brake lights you have bled the the small amount of vacuum in the chamber and everything is ok.

I totally agree.

I would disconnect the wire at the motor and see if there is current draw at the fuse when the switch is closed. Then check the current draw with an amp meter at the motor. Too high amps could be defective motor or overloaded. Also check the voltage, low voltage increases the amp draw.

I live in the Arizona desert and it seems that everyone that has basement air complains but also those with inadequate roof airs also complain. The coach must be well insulated and dual pane windows and large enough roof ac units.

Is your coach perfectly level? Mine hangs up if body is tweaked a little.

Unless you know for sure which protector they installed new I would go with a known good one. When building a new coach its a question of who has more authority, the engineer or the bean counter.

I will not accept a new tire older than 4 months. When I order tires from my supplier I make it known that if they are older than 4 months I won't take them off their truck. Just got 4 tires in April and they were 2 months old.

I bought 4 new tires for my rear axle and I told my supplier that they must be current. This was the middle of April and I got tires that were made in Feb. 2017. I don't think anyone should accept tires that are older than about 4 months.